Euro header + section 1 swap question

[Tbonem3]

Right, so you got lucky. As soon as the computer figures it out or you reset codes or disconnect the battery, you're screwed.

It's not a viable method. I'm only saying it so readers who aren't up on all this don't get the wrong idea.

[Slideways]

Right, so you got lucky. As soon as the computer figures it out or you reset codes or disconnect the battery, you're screwed.

It's not a viable method. I'm only saying it so readers who aren't up on all this don't get the wrong idea.

Not luck, there is a thread about this - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...-obd-readiness

[Maxhouse97]

OT - I just received my euro headers (thanks bmwfanatic) and was amazed at how light they are. Me and my friend were debating what they we made out of (I assumed SS) and whether these were the CSL version or not.

[Tbonem3]

Not luck, there is a thread about this - https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...-obd-readiness

What does that have to do with it? You think he read that thread or surpressed dtcs in that way?

We've been coding out rear o2s for 2 decades for this car, and it's not always been the case that cat and o2 monitors were "ready" afterwards.

[Way2Slow]

I wouldn't see coding as a permanent option, but maybe temp until I got a new harness. With that in mind, I was able to seperate the harness and run it along the transmission as recommended and it worked but things are still pretty tight. My next question is does the car need to be coded for euro cats? It threw a code when I did a test start. I can hear a tiny exhaust leak so I'm going to hunt that down but I'm wondering if I need to get it tuned or can I limp around until I can find a tuner?

[Cubieman]

I wouldn't see coding as a permanent option, but maybe temp until I got a new harness. With that in mind, I was able to seperate the harness and run it along the transmission as recommended and it worked but things are still pretty tight. My next question is does the car need to be coded for euro cats? It threw a code when I did a test start. I can hear a tiny exhaust leak so I'm going to hunt that down but I'm wondering if I need to get it tuned or can I limp around until I can find a tuner?

Shouldn't need any tune, I ran my stock US tune with the Euro setup for a while without issue. What code(s) did you get?
Somewhere out there is a stock Euro tune you could do for free.

[Way2Slow]

I noticed my secondary air hose was loose so I tightened that and then cleared the codes. Now I'm getting P0174 and some bogging down below 1k RPM. I hope I didn't break one of the O2 sensors transferring them to the new headers/cats.

[AWE46M3]

I didn't do anything other than code out the rear o2's and EGT via Martyns bin tool.

I tested for readiness beforehand, no issues.

You are one lucky guy! I would have bought a lottery ticket after passing this smog 🤣 You'll have to let us know if it works again in 2026.

[bavarian3]

What does that have to do with it? You think he read that thread or surpressed dtcs in that way?

We've been coding out rear o2s for 2 decades for this car, and it's not always been the case that cat and o2 monitors were "ready" afterwards.

You are one lucky guy! I would have bought a lottery ticket after passing this smog 🤣 You'll have to let us know if it works again in 2026.

Just to be clear, I checked the readiness before hand. It's not like I just walked up in there and randomly passed.

I did this because of others citing success using the same method.

This apparent "luck" is news to me.

[Way2Slow]

I found the exhaust leak and tightened everything up then cleared the codes and went for a drive. I'm still getting some random hesitation at idle but everything else seems ok. It's thrown a p0175 a couple times but the sensor appears to be working so I'm not sure what to make of that. These values seem to fluctuate.