Power Steering puddle under my car after first start in 6 months

[FFWD]

Update: Leak is from the high pressure hose that is corroded.Hard lines attached to the rack itself are also badly corroded. Need to figure out if it's possible to replace those "pipes" with the steering rack in place, or what the best approach is.


Trying to prepare myself for what to expect after noticing a puddle under the car after starting it. Seems to be collecting in the skid plate and leaking out of a crack near the passenger side. I can't see any fluid sprayed or leaking anywhere from looking into the engine bay, not even near the reservoir. What's the most common failure - please say a hose end at the steering column that can be fixed with just a new hose, LOL.

Also, I need to get it the car onto my 4-post lift without dripping PS fluid everywhere. Which of these 2 options is better, or is there another option?

1. remove the accessory belt to stop the PS fluid from pumping
2. drain the PS fluid and run the pump "dry" - will the residual fluid provide enough lubrication to avoid damage?

[PSUEng]

If it were me, I'd check the inlet/outlet to the cooler behind the radiator/condensor (easy), then move on to pulling the airbox and check underneath the reservoir. Then, visually you can see down to the connections at the rack. If you have a ruptured line somewhere, you may have to get under it. But I'd make sure the reservoir is full; I would not do either of your two options. These reservoirs are known to leak with age so it's highly likely your problem.

EDIT: you can also check the connections at the pump from up top too; if I recall, the airbox being out makes it very easy.

[FFWD]

If it were me, I'd check the inlet/outlet to the cooler behind the radiator/condensor (easy), then move on to pulling the airbox and check underneath the reservoir. Then, visually you can see down to the connections at the rack. If you have a ruptured line somewhere, you may have to get under it. But I'd make sure the reservoir is full; I would not do either of your two options. These reservoirs are known to leak with age so it's highly likely your problem.

EDIT: you can also check the connections at the pump from up top too; if I recall, the airbox being out makes it very easy.

I took the airbox out and can't see any fresh fluid sprayed anywhere on the driver's side of the engine bay including the skid plate. The reservoir had a slow leak so there is a lot of goop crusted on it and the line, but nothing fresh. The only thing I can see from the engine bay is that the skid plate is wet on the passenger side. So wherever it's leaking from, it's on the passenger side. Guess I'll be removing the belts after all to drive it up on my 4-post lift so I have the clearance to drop the skid plate and see what I need to replace. BTQ, there was no puddle underneath the car before I started it. I know because my coolant looked a little low so I added some and was checking for leaks.

[jayjaya29]

Its probably leaking from the high pressure line that goes in front of the rack.

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[timpnw]

If it's one the passenger side, then check around this arm. it's the only PS line on that side of the car.

[FFWD]

I still haven't been able to get under the car yet, but I sure hope it's just one of the hoses. Can the rack itself leak from the ends where the boots are?

Also, does anyone know if the hard pipes #4 come pre-bent? Are they just like the hard brake pipes and use the same fittings? Because I have spare copper nickel lines I bought to replace my rear lines.

[FFWD]

[QUOTE=jayjaya29;n303698]Its probably leaking from the high pressure line that goes in front of the rack.

I finally had some time and decided to go the route of removing the belts. With the car on the lift, it was easy to see that jayjaya29 nailed it. It was leaking from badly rusted (just like my rear brake pipes) steel portion where it turns back on itself. While inspecting that, I also noticed the steel pipes attached to the steering rack were looking just like my brake pipes, so I ordered those as well. Looks like it will be a fairly straightforward job, but for one question:

The fluid in there is bright red, so is it safe to just refill with ATF? CHF-11S is the only other option, and it's green when new, but people say it can become brownish-red after age. This fluid is from 2011 and still bright red.

[jayjaya29]

ATF all the way.

[FFWD]

Actually, I did bring my car in for each Inspection I and II to the same reputable indy shop. I'm guessing power steering fluid replacement is involved in at least one of those services. So it's probably not from all the way back in 2011. Either way, it's red, not brown.

[FFWD]

And now that I look at the service history, I see the dealership replaced the rack and pump in 2010 and filled with Dexron III.

[FFWD]

One last question - I just realized the Bentley manual doesn't show the procedue for replacing the hard lines on the rack itself, so no torque settings. Anyone know what it is? It looks like brake flare nuts with rubber seals, so I'm guessing hand tight, just enough to prevent backing off from vibration is fine?

[jayjaya29]

The hardlines on the rack itself typically aren't a leak source and often aren't replaced. But yes, snug will be fine on them.

[FFWD]

The hardlines on the rack itself typically aren't a leak source and often aren't replaced. But yes, snug will be fine on them.

Oh, wow - I didn't even realize the two ends of the high pressure hose had different torque specs. Bentley actually shows the top one as not even being a banjo, I just assumed the drawing was off and I should use the same spec as the other banjo. Is that diagram from TIS?

[jayjaya29]

No, its from here:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/414-e46-m3-torque-spec-thread-every-bolt-on-the-car-on-diagrams

[FFWD]

I have the old high pressure hose off, and now that I'm looking at the hard lines on the back of the rack, it looks like I may need to remove the rack to get to the center-most flare nut because it's behind the front of the subframe. Or am I missing a trick? The flare nuts are looking pretty corroded, so I don't think I want to take a chance going at them off-center.