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    Originally posted by 9kracing View Post


    Bad accuracy?

    Cams have lift and duration.

    You're saying they are ground wrong?
    ZiMMie unfortunately he's right. After my ordeal with the post COVID Schricks that failed after break in of about 1,200kms I got a full cat cams set. The intake cam where the vanos vvt socket goes, the one the cam sprockets bolt to, and where the spline shaft enters was of conical shape. Smaller at the mouth and larger at the rear. Off by 0.015 at the mouth and +0.025 at the rear. Dad's a veteran Peng, said that after the hardening process they didn't recheck the cylinder values since the coating inside the cam was consistent with the rest of the piece (ie no machining traces).

    Upon contacting catcams they said impossible until I showed them video and pics. They took care of shipping and returned the cam machined, I didn't get a new one as this cam was brand new never used.

    I've been running the cat cam setup now for 2000km+ and no issues so far. I've delayed the new injectors and fuel rail to take my time with break in.

    Once you open up the engine and deviating from stock you take major risks, financial and emotional.
    Last edited by CrisSilberGrau; 11-07-2023, 12:01 PM.
    2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
    M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

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    Comment


      Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post

      ZiMMie unfortunately he's right. After my ordeal with the post COVID Schricks that failed after break in of about 1,200kms I got a full cat cams set. The intake cam where the vanos vvt socket goes, the one the cam sprockets bolt to, and where the spline shaft enters was of conical shape. Smaller at the mouth and larger at the rear. Off by 0.015 at the mouth and +0.025 at the rear. Dad's a veteran Peng, said that after the hardening process they didn't recheck the cylinder values since the coating inside the cam was consistent with the rest of the piece (ie no machining traces).

      Upon contacting catcams they said impossible until I showed them video and pics. They took care of shipping and returned the cam machined, I didn't get a new one as this cam was brand new never used.

      I've been running the cat cam setup now for 2000km+ and no issues so far. I've delayed the new injectors and fuel rail to take my time with break in.

      Once you open up the engine and deviating from stock you take major risks, financial and emotional.
      This is why I removed my head, got it machined, new hardware and went with Schrick. I saw these issues arising so I ended up spending $7k on the head. I prefer everything right. All hardware, including sensors, is also getting replaced. Some are going to see this and understand, others are going to have a brain aneurysm.
      This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

      "Do it right once or do it twice"

      Comment


        Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post

        ZiMMie unfortunately he's right. After my ordeal with the post COVID Schricks that failed after break in of about 1,200kms I got a full cat cams set. The intake cam where the vanos vvt socket goes, the one the cam sprockets bolt to, and where the spline shaft enters was of conical shape. Smaller at the mouth and larger at the rear. Off by 0.015 at the mouth and +0.025 at the rear. Dad's a veteran Peng, said that after the hardening process they didn't recheck the cylinder values since the coating inside the cam was consistent with the rest of the piece (ie no machining traces).

        Upon contacting catcams they said impossible until I showed them video and pics. They took care of shipping and returned the cam machined, I didn't get a new one as this cam was brand new never used.

        I've been running the cat cam setup now for 2000km+ and no issues so far. I've delayed the new injectors and fuel rail to take my time with break in.

        Once you open up the engine and deviating from stock you take major risks, financial and emotional.
        Hey, are the schrick cam failures common at this point? I have been considering buying a set of 280/272 but have been concerned regarding the increased reported failures.

        Are the failures related to not using the DLC followers?

        Comment


          Originally posted by bmw m3 s50 View Post

          Hey, are the schrick cam failures common at this point? I have been considering buying a set of 280/272 but have been concerned regarding the increased reported failures.

          Are the failures related to not using the DLC followers?
          No. It is EXTREMELY unlikely a cam will fail if you're replacing the rockers. For any car of any brands, these are always to be replaced with the cams. If you don't then it doesn't really matter what cam you use, it's prone to fail. I've seen a customer do it cheap, replace a cam and only do the lifter on the lobe that failed. They needed another cam shortly after and a few of the other lobes wore terribly. The engine was in the 90k range. This was a VR6 engine in a Cayenne. Do it right the first time and there's a very good chance you won't have to do it again. We've all been there due to time and/or money however this is one area that can destroy an engine in seconds. I wouldn't shy away from cams if you plan to spend the money for both.
          Last edited by Arith2; 11-13-2023, 05:21 AM.
          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

          "Do it right once or do it twice"

          Comment


            Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

            No. It is EXTREMELY unlikely a cam will fail if you're replacing the rockers. For any car of any brands, these are always to be replaced with the cams. If you don't then it doesn't really matter what cam you use, it's prone to fail. I've seen a customer do it cheap, replace a cam and only do the lifter on the lobe that failed. They needed another cam shortly after and a few of the other lobes wore terribly. The engine was in the 90k range. This was a VR6 engine in a Cayenne. Do it right the first time and there's a very good chance you won't have to do it again. We've all been there due to time and/or money however this is one area that can destroy an engine in seconds. I wouldn't shy away from cams if you plan to spend the money for both.
            That’s a relief. I keep reading thread about cam failures from CAT and now Schrick, it had me worried. There are so many members with cam failure it had me second guessing myself.


            I am trying to build my motor NA but not have any problems. I am hoping I can catch some Black Friday deals on the Schrick cams and DLC followers.

            is there anything else needed to get the cams to work properly and not risk future failure?

            Comment


              Originally posted by bmw m3 s50 View Post

              That’s a relief. I keep reading thread about cam failures from CAT and now Schrick, it had me worried. There are so many members with cam failure it had me second guessing myself.


              I am trying to build my motor NA but not have any problems. I am hoping I can catch some Black Friday deals on the Schrick cams and DLC followers.

              is there anything else needed to get the cams to work properly and not risk future failure?
              Not every single product will be perfect every time. It's just how it is. Follow torque sequences and replace the bolts that need to be replaced. There is so much you can replace while doing cams. I opted to doing literally every sensor, hose, and refresh my SMG fluid which has a 5 year service life. Have you removed a head before?
              Last edited by Arith2; 11-14-2023, 06:15 PM.
              This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
              https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

              "Do it right once or do it twice"

              Comment


                Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

                Not every single product will be perfect every time. It's just how it is. Follow torque sequences and replace the bolts that need to be replaced. There is so much you can replace while doing cams. I opted to doing literally every sensor, hose, and refresh my SMG fluid which has a 5 year service life. Have you removed a head before?
                What is recommended to be changed when swapping cams?

                I plan on doing Beisan Vanos Lockdown while I am in there, but would love to get as much as possible while I am in there to cut down on labor costs in the future.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by bmw m3 s50 View Post

                  What is recommended to be changed when swapping cams?

                  I plan on doing Beisan Vanos Lockdown while I am in there, but would love to get as much as possible while I am in there to cut down on labor costs in the future.
                  Well, what's recommended will vary on your current engine's condition, and planned use.

                  On the S54, I did full VANOS rebuild, a few tough to reach sensors while the engine was out, along with new cams, rockers and valve adjustments, along with every mandatory replacement bolts, gaskets and o-rings.

                  On the S85, going a bit further on the 296/284 cams install and doing new valve seats, stems, uprated springs, titanium retainers and collets as there's no VANOS to overhaul, along with every mandatory replacement bolts, gaskets and o-rings.

                  Rod bearings were serviced on both engines as well.

                  When it comes to this engine work, it's always best to discuss face to face with whoever will work on your engine to get a feel for their experience, and distinguishing from what you'll read on the Internet, and what happens in real life.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by bmw m3 s50 View Post

                    What is recommended to be changed when swapping cams?

                    I plan on doing Beisan Vanos Lockdown while I am in there, but would love to get as much as possible while I am in there to cut down on labor costs in the future.
                    Only rockers are necessary with cams. The intake cam sensor is a pain to change so you can do that.

                    I did a full head refresh, all new valve parts along with a machining to clean it all up. I did all knock sensors, cam sensors, crank sensor, oil drain back to the pan with the check valve, ICV hoses, new injectors, new fuel regulator with a new vacuum line, new fuel filter, just did a waer pump and thermostat, the heater hose to the head(whoch was actually starting to leak), new chain tensioner, new tensioner guide with the reinforced one, and new spark plugs.

                    Check your metal coolant pipe for pitting. Coolant rarely gets replaced every 4 years and electrolysis eats at it. It's like a $200 pipe. I'm going to be ordering that as well one of these days. I haven't driven the car in 6 months sadly from just not having time to assemble it.
                    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                    "Do it right once or do it twice"

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

                      Only rockers are necessary with cams. The intake cam sensor is a pain to change so you can do that.

                      I did a full head refresh, all new valve parts along with a machining to clean it all up. I did all knock sensors, cam sensors, crank sensor, oil drain back to the pan with the check valve, ICV hoses, new injectors, new fuel regulator with a new vacuum line, new fuel filter, just did a waer pump and thermostat, the heater hose to the head(whoch was actually starting to leak), new chain tensioner, new tensioner guide with the reinforced one, and new spark plugs.

                      Check your metal coolant pipe for pitting. Coolant rarely gets replaced every 4 years and electrolysis eats at it. It's like a $200 pipe. I'm going to be ordering that as well one of these days. I haven't driven the car in 6 months sadly from just not having time to assemble it.
                      Did you by any chance post a thread on your install? I am probably going to replace as much as I can while in there so I am worry free. Grant it, the car has low mileage but the car is going thru a restoration and I am in the planning stage at this point with sourcing parts. I do plan on doing the VANOS lockout while I am doing cams so I would address the timing chain issues while doing the VANOS Lockdown.

                      Comment


                        What’s the intake & exhaust valve clearence with Schricks 280/272 camshafts? I read 0.0098’’ but is there a +- tolerance??

                        Stock it’s between 0.007-0.009’’ for intake and 0.011-0.013’’ for exhaust side? So I was wondering what is the tolerance with Schricks cause no way it will be bang on!!
                        GT4 Composites

                        2002 BMW E46 M3 TiAg 6mt Track car project
                        2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue 6mt Garage Queen
                        2024 Toyota Land Cruiser Black DD/Tow Truck

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Gt4 View Post
                          What's the intake & exhaust valve clearence with Schricks 280/272 camshafts? I read 0.0098'' but is there a +- tolerance??

                          Stock it's between 0.007-0.009'' for intake and 0.011-0.013'' for exhaust side? So I was wondering what is the tolerance with Schricks cause no way it will be bang on!!
                          If you go to the Schrick website and download the data sheet for the cams it will be listed there. The lash spec is different than stock cams.
                          2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Gt4 View Post
                            What’s the intake & exhaust valve clearence with Schricks 280/272 camshafts? I read 0.0098’’ but is there a +- tolerance??

                            Stock it’s between 0.007-0.009’’ for intake and 0.011-0.013’’ for exhaust side? So I was wondering what is the tolerance with Schricks cause no way it will be bang on!!
                            I just assumed same tolerances as stock. So 0.009 - 0.011

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

                              If you go to the Schrick website and download the data sheet for the cams it will be listed there. The lash spec is different than stock cams.
                              I did look before posting and it says 0.25mm or 0.0098’’.
                              Attached Files
                              GT4 Composites

                              2002 BMW E46 M3 TiAg 6mt Track car project
                              2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue 6mt Garage Queen
                              2024 Toyota Land Cruiser Black DD/Tow Truck

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Gt4 View Post

                                I did look before posting and it says 0.25mm or 0.0098''.
                                I stand corrected. I remember the numbers were different but didn't recall the units. Apologies for the confusion!
                                2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

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