Gearstick play

[ac427]

My gearstick has quite a lot of left to right play in it.

What are the parts that need to be replaced to reduce the play?

[heinzboehmer]

How much is a lot? I've replaced absolutely everything that's serviceable (bushings, carrier, linkage, springs, detents, etc.) and still have some side to side slop in mine. Just intrinsic to the design of the 420G.

This is as good as I've gotten it:

[JakeM346]

How much is a lot? I've replaced absolutely everything that's serviceable (bushings, carrier, linkage, springs, detents, etc.) and still have some side to side slop in mine. Just intrinsic to the design of the 420G.

This is as good as I've gotten it:

you don’t have the UUC Short shifter do you? Because I got it in mine and compared to the normal shift linkage it further eliminates some play. (You need the Shift rod from them / or garageristics)

[maupineda]

I have the AS short shift, and like Heinz, still some play, which comes from the rubber bushings at the rear and fork connection on the Z4M. I could reduce that by a lot by adding poly but then I will end up with more NVH, I have come to accept there will always be some play in the linkage.

[heinzboehmer]

you don’t have the UUC Short shifter do you? Because I got it in mine and compared to the normal shift linkage it further eliminates some play. (You need the Shift rod from them / or garageristics)

That video is with the AutoSolutions AutoX kit

[JakeM346]

That video is with the AutoSolutions AutoX kit

Makes sense… since that is also a slinge side linkage instead of a fork the above mentioned are both fork designs which work better

[ac427]

Thanks for the replies. I had forgotten that i do have an SSK fitted. It is an older Rogue Engineering SSK. I also have the UUC DSSR rod installed. This combination has been fine for a few years. It was pointed out to me that because the UUC DSSR forked rod is straight rather than kinked. It can slightly catch the guibo during a gear change. I have had no issues with this set up though.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Ro9P40m-ovk

The gear change works ok but on start up, after backing off the drive and selecting first gear. It sometimes won't release first gear to select second gear. This only started very recently. Everything is fine after a few hundred yards. The weather is not cold. Could this be gearbox spring and ball related?

[ac427]

Well this is why you need a cranked control rod in your gearchange, at least with an SSK you do

The corners of the guibo/rubber coupling have been rubbed off.

[fattycharged]

how would you drive with it that way long enough to wear the guibo down that much is wild...

I just installed an AS AutoX and have that much play as well. I actually think the poly rear slip joint may increase the side to side

[ac427]

It only rubbed during changes and so has lasted for at least 3 years!

The Rogue Engineering control rod is in now in, along with a new guibo, new clutch (LuK) and new gearbox and diff oil.


One thing i did notice was how light the clutch pedal was after the LuK clutch kit was installed. The previous clutch was a genuine BMW item but hey are a ludicrous price now, so i went for a LuK kit.

My release bearing was making a noise, hence the new clutch. I was told that the Sachs release bearing is superior to the LuK release bearing included in the kit.

Has anyone else heard this?

[ATB88]

It only rubbed during changes and so has lasted for at least 3 years!

The Rogue Engineering control rod is in now in along with a new guibo, new clutch (LuK) and new gearbox and diff oil.


One thing i did notice was how light the clutch pedal was after the LuK clutch kit was installed. The previous clutch was a genuine BMW item but hey are a ludicrous price now, so i went for a LuK kit.

My release bearing was making a noise, hence the new clutch. I was told tat the Sachs release bearing is superior to the LuK release bearing included in the kit.

Has anyone else heard this?

I personally found my replacement LuK clutch to feel just as heavy as the original BMW. If it feels like there's a big difference, it might mean that the slave cylinder isn't properly bled? As for TOB, there have been threads about this where it was pointed out that the LuK TOB has a lot of play in it, and the OE BMW one is good and tight. Sachs might be the current OEM? Did you compare the Sachs TOB to the LuK one? There should have been a very noticeable difference between the two (LuK being very very loose and rattly, easy to move around the metal contact piece, and the other should have had no such obvious play). If they seemed similar in looseness to you, that might mean that the Sachs is just as bad and only the OE BMW one is good these days. Too late at this point though, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

[Slideways]

I personally found my replacement LuK clutch to feel just as heavy as the original BMW. If it feels like there's a big difference, it might mean that the slave cylinder isn't properly bled? As for TOB, there have been threads about this where it was pointed out that the LuK TOB has a lot of play in it, and the OE BMW one is good and tight. Sachs might be the current OEM? Did you compare the Sachs TOB to the LuK one? There should have been a very noticeable difference between the two (LuK being very very loose and rattly, easy to move around the metal contact piece, and the other should have had no such obvious play). If they seemed similar in looseness to you, that might mean that the Sachs is just as bad and only the OE BMW one is good these days. Too late at this point though, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

I'm pretty sure it is the pilot bearing and not the throwout bearing that needs to be OE BMW.

LuK makes the genuine clutch disc for BMW and I believe the flywheel as well.

Edit: Throw out bearing also better to get OE BMW.

[ejendow]

If it's anything like the non-M's, you want a Genuine BMW pilot bearing and either a Sachs or BMW TOB.

[ATB88]

I'm pretty sure it is the pilot bearing and not the throwout bearing that needs to be OE BMW.

LuK makes the genuine clutch disc for BMW and I believe the flywheel as well.

Agree that the pilot bearing needs to be OE, but so does the TOB. The TOB that comes in the LuK clutch kit is bad. See this thread: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...e-with-luk-tob -- I'm not sure if the Sachs TOB is equivalent to the OE BMW, but the LuK definitely is not.

The pressure plate and clutch disk in the LuK kit are good.

[ac427]

I personally found my replacement LuK clutch to feel just as heavy as the original BMW. If it feels like there's a big difference, it might mean that the slave cylinder isn't properly bled? As for TOB, there have been threads about this where it was pointed out that the LuK TOB has a lot of play in it, and the OE BMW one is good and tight. Sachs might be the current OEM? Did you compare the Sachs TOB to the LuK one? There should have been a very noticeable difference between the two (LuK being very very loose and rattly, easy to move around the metal contact piece, and the other should have had no such obvious play). If they seemed similar in looseness to you, that might mean that the Sachs is just as bad and only the OE BMW one is good these days. Too late at this point though, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

Thanks.
I did think that LuK were the OEM supplier of clutches to BMW at least for the E46 M3 but maybe not.

I bought a Sachs release bearing and had that fitted in place of the LuK one. I thought the LuK was a bit loose and the Sachs one did seem 'more together'. The clutch and gearchange are great now, so all good.