Price Increase for Throttle Body Actuator

[BL92]

The one 0 to 60 purchased was for sale since November last year

there is no demand for them

MParts in NJ has 1 for sale for 200 atm

[0-60motorsports]

So I've got an $1800 ticking time bomb bolted to my engine. Bro, way to be a debbie downer and ruin my day....so depressing 🤣

Im sure you got over it real fast LOL. someone posted on FB that they offer a repair service for it now but its super secret and it'll cost you like $300 +. 🤣🤣🤣

[BL92]

This guy paid 577 Pounds for 1, 4 months ago

Good insight how to and when to replace

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5eLlYXROlM

[Obioban]

Not going to buy this one in a panic. Rarely/never see them go bad on the S54.

[0-60motorsports]

Not going to buy this one in a panic. Rarely/never see them go bad on the S54.

I have shook my head a few times like on CSL headers and now its a headache to get them.....So i said I need to have one win at least LOL. So got this and OE CSL Cluster, OE CSL Engine harness and OE CSL Roof rails one shot (all for bargain prices).

As I get older and being a parent I feel like going back to my original euro/csl headers and cats with the rest leaving the SS system on. But oh well now i'll just have to order the HJS catted section from SS or wait till they make a catted SS EL Section.

[Circa Surviven]

This guy paid 577 Pounds for 1, 4 months ago

Good insight how to and when to replace

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5eLlYXROlM

Thank you for posting this. I'll have to check it out after work. I got the EML light with three fault codes last week and saw the actuator was $682. I told myself I would at least try replacing the front TPS at $182 because funds are tight. I logged in to FCP today to see if the tariffs are raising anything, I saw the acutator for $1648 and my heart sank.

[Ryan_R]

I’ve fully disassembled and cleaned about a dozen throttle motors to install a flanged autosport connector on the housing. The only issue I have come across are oxidized wires that run from the OEM connector to the motor itself. And this was only on 1 motor. The gears all looked fine. Roller bearings still had ample grease in them as well.
The shaft on the gear doesn’t seem to wear like the shaft on the throttle bodies.
If you’re having issues, I’d look at the tps before the motor.

As a side note, if you remove the shaft from the housing, you need a special tool to press it back in. Otherwise you’ll end of bending the c-clip and damaging the bore on the housing. I can send a picture of the tool I made to press the shaft back into the housing.

[0-60motorsports]

Thank you for posting this. I'll have to check it out after work. I got the EML light with three fault codes last week and saw the actuator was $682. I told myself I would at least try replacing the front TPS at $182 because funds are tight. I logged in to FCP today to see if the tariffs are raising anything, I saw the acutator for $1648 and my heart sank.

Its your TPS sensor, Dont worry.

[0-60motorsports]

I’ve fully disassembled and cleaned about a dozen throttle motors to install a flanged autosport connector on the housing. The only issue I have come across are oxidized wires that run from the OEM connector to the motor itself. And this was only on 1 motor. The gears all looked fine. Roller bearings still had ample grease in them as well.
The shaft on the gear doesn’t seem to wear like the shaft on the throttle bodies.
If you’re having issues, I’d look at the tps before the motor.

As a side note, if you remove the shaft from the housing, you need a special tool to press it back in. Otherwise you’ll end of bending the c-clip and damaging the bore on the housing. I can send a picture of the tool I made to press the shaft back into the housing.

Could you kindly post a pic of the tool? Thank you.

[Ryan_R]

Sure thing. I just used a scrap piece of 6mm 6061 I had laying around. About 15 minutes with a drill, hacksaw and file to rough it out.
The holes are tapped for an M8x1.25mm bolt. Install the tool between the gear and bearing, thread an appropriate length bolt into each hole (I believe the bolts I used were 40mm in length), then press the bearing into place. It will bottom out ~1-2mm before it sits flush. The interference fit between the bearing and throttle housing isn't very tight, you could probably tap the bearing in place with a small hammer.

[PSUEng]

Just got this from RA.com today...