Porsche Brembo 996 BBK conversion

[maupineda]

In my experience, the stoptech (centric owned) seals are slightly looser than OE brembo, so their pistons also being slightly larger should be fine. You're also talking about hundredths of a millimeter.

A trick I tried once was when I had one seal feel too tight, I moved it over to a bore where the fit was a little too loose, then moved that looser seal back over to the first bore where things were too tight. Both then were snug.

I would highly suggest using proper install lube rather than brake fluid - it provides much more lubricity and makes it easier to push the pistons past the new seals. If you bought the new seals off ebay (Ohiomotorsports), then it comes with proper lube.

Hi, I did not source my seals from them but went with the centric kit from FCP Euro. I wonder if they will bring some lube with them. if not, is this something I can source from the typical auto parts stores (Autozone, etc)?

[KhanArt]

I have Textar pads and I had to remove the pins as well. Might need to try removing the adhesive since my Front brakes randomly make loud noises during slow braking if I am not mistaken.

[WOLFN8TR]

anyone using the front dampers? do you leave them as they are for easier reuse or do you adhere them to the brake pads?
And by the way my rear pads (front Porsche) from ate arrived with a pin that i had to remove.

I initially installed the fronts without the dampers. You can here the pistons engaging the pads when applying the brakes. I ended up removing the adhesive from the dampers and installing them, it reduced the noise about 50%. My rear ATE pads also came with that pin, remove and install.

[Zekarus]

I don't see how they'd work (dampen vibrations), if they're not fixed to the pads. The pads are already mostly immobilized by the pins and the spring clip on top. What keeps the pad then from vibrating or moving that little bit that creates noise? I assume it's these dampers stuck to the pad and stuck inside the pistons.

Word of advice- the temptation to adhere these dampers to the pad before install is strong, but it will screw you up unless you guess perfectly. It's best to stick the dampers into the pistons, then peel the backing, and stick the pad to them, as the pad is resting on the pins.

great advice will do it like you suggest! thanks!

[Tbonem3]

In my experience, the stoptech (centric owned) seals are slightly looser than OE brembo, so their pistons also being slightly larger should be fine. You're also talking about hundredths of a millimeter.

A trick I tried once was when I had one seal feel too tight, I moved it over to a bore where the fit was a little too loose, then moved that looser seal back over to the first bore where things were too tight. Both then were snug.

I would highly suggest using proper install lube rather than brake fluid - it provides much more lubricity and makes it easier to push the pistons past the new seals. If you bought the new seals off ebay (Ohiomotorsports), then it comes with proper lube.

[maupineda]

Hi, I just received the new centric pistons for the rebuild of my rear 996 brembos and I wanted to share a few images I took to compare them. I took some measurements and they are pretty close, the new pistons are 0.02mm bigger, I wonder if this is just down to tear and wear. I used centric as I could not find original brembos in the US, plus the centric items are cost-effective. Does anyone have experience with these? I hope they are of good quality. I also used their seals.

BTW; I don't track the car, it is just my weekend toy and I cannot say I drive it aggresively as the public roads here are very busy and there are very few B-roads.

OE (Dark) vs Centric



The next two photos show the measurements of the 28mm pistons

OE


Centric



These are the 30mm

OE



Centric


and the front 2.7L front pads for the rear 996 Brembo's

[Tbonem3]

I don't see how they'd work (dampen vibrations), if they're not fixed to the pads. The pads are already mostly immobilized by the pins and the spring clip on top. What keeps the pad then from vibrating or moving that little bit that creates noise? I assume it's these dampers stuck to the pad and stuck inside the pistons.

Word of advice- the temptation to adhere these dampers to the pad before install is strong, but it will screw you up unless you guess perfectly. It's best to stick the dampers into the pistons, then peel the backing, and stick the pad to them, as the pad is resting on the pins.

[Casa de Mesa]

I didn't reuse the dampers.

[Zekarus]

anyone using the front dampers? do you leave them as they are for easier reuse or do you adhere them to the brake pads?

and by the way my rear pads (front porsche) from ate arrived with a pin that i had to remove.

[Arith2]

Thanks for all the replies re: the black oxide bolts. I had intended to swap them out after the initial install but never got around to it (you know how it goes).

When I did this job, I cheaped out on the pads springs and bleeder valves, having a hard time justifying the Porsche pricing. They all rusted.

I don't know if I got anything corrosive on it. If I did, I would have expected to see rust everywhere else on the car and I don't. It's only on the front and rear brakes. Also, where I was able to reuse some of the Porsche parts (pad springs in the front brakes) there is zero rust. Buy cheap buy twice.



I have APEX EC-7 wheels in 18" and there is PLENTY of room with this setup (CSL/Competition rotors front and rear).

Yeah I've learned that the hard way a few times over the years. There are a lot of cheap things you can get away with like a window switch, but metal usually is not the same. My Megan Racing headers are the exception to this rule but I generally try to stick to the best qualityrice ratio.

It's really good to visually see how much room you have in there. I was thinking worst case scenario, I'd be shaving the top of the pin hole down a few mm but not anymore.

[scotty737]

I'm considering to upgrade to Ferodo DS2500 pads (from Textar) as well, but wasn't sure if they'll squeal. How do you find the stopping power and fitment with these pads? Are FRP3051H and FCP1307H the correct part number?

They make some noise when coming to a complete stop, but they aren't too noisy. I've only driven ~300 miles on them so far. I have no complaints so far on the pads, but I cannot compare to the textars. Yes, Those are the part numbers I used.

[Casa de Mesa]

Thanks for all the replies re: the black oxide bolts. I had intended to swap them out after the initial install but never got around to it (you know how it goes).

When I did this job, I cheaped out on the pads springs and bleeder valves, having a hard time justifying the Porsche pricing. They all rusted.

I don't know if I got anything corrosive on it. If I did, I would have expected to see rust everywhere else on the car and I don't. It's only on the front and rear brakes. Also, where I was able to reuse some of the Porsche parts (pad springs in the front brakes) there is zero rust. Buy cheap buy twice.

Possibly changed bolts. One thing I absolutely did not think about is if this set up will work on 18" rims. I 90% it will but can someone measure the distance between their rim and caliper just so I know.... CSL wheels are great and all but I do like the way 18's drive much better.

I have APEX EC-7 wheels in 18" and there is PLENTY of room with this setup (CSL/Competition rotors front and rear).

[Arith2]

Possibly changed bolts. One thing I absolutely did not think about is if this set up will work on 18" rims. I 90% it will but can someone measure the distance between their rim and caliper just so I know.... CSL wheels are great and all but I do like the way 18's drive much better.

[maupineda]

Today I collected my RR kit (brackets, fasteners, and lines) for the Z4M, and the fasteners are zinc plated, 12.9 class.

[Arith2]

Does anyone have a suggestion on cap screws (bolts) alternatives that secure the rear calipers to the brackets? I'm looking for ones that won't rust quite as easily.

I did this about 2 years ago (killer brakes!!!) but the black oxide cap screws that came with the Rally Road kit are rusting badly. This car never sees snow and rarely rain, so this is car washes mostly that has caused this. I'm not sure if these are grade 10.9 or 12.9 - this is 4 bolts that I don't want to incorrectly spec a replacement.

My dad had his brakes updated a few years back and when we changed them recently, and the pad brackets didn't have rust on them like that at all. He has a 987 but the pad is exactly the same. The brand was Pagid which are phenomenal pads, as well as OE. They survived the Tail of the Dragon for hours of spirited driving. I was genuinely impressed.

Something corrosive must've got on your car at one point which caused them to rust that wasn't washed off in time. Maybe the lack of rain helped it rust because they didn't get washed off. I can call Rally Road monday and verify the bolt they used but that corrosion seems excessive for only a few years. If it was just bolts, fine, but it's also the unrelated bracket. We're here in FL where it rains ALL the time so unless you had some acid rain(it is possible) I don't think this corrosion is the normal standard. Hopefully that'll relieve you some.

Have you used rim cleaner on your rims even once since the brake change?