Originally posted by Wernd
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Never-ending EML/limp mode problems
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Mine looked OK but the damper inside of it was shot. You could shake it and the inside would just bounce back and fourth until it finally settled to a stop. The new one would bounce one way then the other and stop. We also found the evap valve was leaking so the car is torn apart just sitting until the part arrives. Hopefully I'll have an update next weekend.
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Wait, there's a damper inside? I wonder if that contributes to the jerkiness when transitioning from full engine breaking to ICV on decel.Originally posted by Wernd View PostMine looked OK but the damper inside of it was shot. You could shake it and the inside would just bounce back and fourth until it finally settled to a stop. The new one would bounce one way then the other and stop. We also found the evap valve was leaking so the car is torn apart just sitting until the part arrives. Hopefully I'll have an update next weekend.2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
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I don't know, I just know the old one bounces back and fourth like it's a a car with a blown strut and the new one doesn't.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
Wait, there's a damper inside? I wonder if that contributes to the jerkiness when transitioning from full engine breaking to ICV on decel.
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I have a video of after I cleaned mine I just went back and referenced, if I shake it back and forth as soon as I stop shaking it it stops so I am assuming it's good. I'm glad I took that video because I didn't really know if it was supposed to keep moving or not once you stop shaking it. Good information, thanks.
Last edited by Norocehcap; 09-14-2025, 06:00 AM.
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Cleaning the ICV doesn't do much. There is a bunch of oil and grime inside of the body that you'll never get out. Probably better just to leave it alone.Originally posted by Norocehcap View PostI have a video of after I cleaned mine I just went back and referenced, if I shake it back and forth as soon as I stop shaking it it stops so I am assuming it's good. I'm glad I took that video because I didn't really know if it was supposed to keep moving or not once you stop shaking it. Good information, thanks.
https://youtube.com/shorts/KRFkBfYoa...IlQCJvYbnOvWPo
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I had measured the resistance of used dirty oil from daily 325i changed oil one per year: with the DVM probes 1mm apart in the oil, it's INFINITY opened circuit.Originally posted by 1000hp View Post
Pure oil doesn't, but there are a lot of other things in it that absolutely do conduct current.
Check your blackstone report for a full list.
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I don't think there is a damper inside, but maybe his old unit with dry grease or washed out in the bearings lets the rotor oscillating longer, while a new unit with greased bearings damped down quicker. The difference should not cause the problem as the rotor is positioned based on the stator wiring current, not a loose or damped bearings.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
Wait, there's a damper inside? I wonder if that contributes to the jerkiness when transitioning from full engine breaking to ICV on decel.
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Interesting. On the car I dealt with, cleaning the oil out of the harness and DME connector, with zero other changes, ended all of the faults and EML/limp mode that had been happening for months prior to that. None of the connectors had been touched prior, and nothing was loose when removed.Originally posted by sapote View Post
I had measured the resistance of used dirty oil from daily 325i changed oil one per year: with the DVM probes 1mm apart in the oil, it's INFINITY opened circuit.
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Just unplug and plug back the connector could do a self cleaning on the pins then gave you the good result. I doubt the oil have anything to do with this.Originally posted by 1000hp View Post
Interesting. On the car I dealt with, cleaning the oil out of the harness and DME connector, with zero other changes, ended all of the faults and EML/limp mode that had been happening for months prior to that. None of the connectors had been touched prior, and nothing was loose when removed.
In automatic tranny boxes, many sensors and connectors are submerged in the dirty oil and fine.
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Tried that first. No change. Cleaned everything out with electronics cleanet and blew it dry...problem solved. There may have been coolant in there as well, since at least one coolant temp sensor shared the ground with that bundle. But the fluid(s) were 100% the cause in this case.Originally posted by sapote View Post
Just unplug and plug back the connector could do a self cleaning on the pins then gave you the good result. I doubt the oil have anything to do with this.
In automatic tranny boxes, many sensors and connectors are submerged in the dirty oil and fine.
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So initial signs are GOOD! After replacing the ICV and making the 30 minute drive home no light came on. I also had to replace the gas tank vent valve for an unrelated issue. The car will really see some heavy duty in a few weeks at Road America for O'Fest, that's when I'll have a really good idea if the icv was the problem
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