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    Need assistance in Aisle 2..suspension help

    Hi all, new member here. Have owned my 2005 M3 for 15 years now. Getting around to tackling my suspension, but have some questions! I have read 100’s of pages of posts, including many posts from respected members and would LOVE a general consensus for me. It just gets far too complicated and involved on many threads.

    Quick background, I currently run Eibach pro-kit springs (0.9” front drop, 0.6” rear drop) with everything else stock suspension wise. Running stock 19” wheels, but plan on switching to 18x9.5 squared setup with 265/35s. It’s a spirited weekend car, with one or two track events yearly.

    I have read some extremely technical information on here and am confused to be honest. My head starts to spin reading some this stuff. I wanted to run PSS10s with slightly larger drop than my Eibach springs (something like 1-1.1” front, 0.7-0.8” rear). It looks like I need camber plates, yes? Guess either GC or Turner hybrids. I dk which would be better. Also, I read that E36 strut mounts would be good? Why? Necessary? Do I need new front sway bars?

    Ohlins R&T sound good, but I think the PSS10 would be good enough and I can save $900.

    OR would you recommend I keep my Eibach springs and change to a Bilstein B4 or B6?

    My why: I would like to increase cornering and braking performance. While not horrible, I am uninspired by my current setup and want a more planted feel. It feels floaty and downright sketchy at 100+ on curvy downhill sections.

    I’m looking for stupid simple and am not going to be highly customizing my ride. Camber plates would probably be advisable with a new setup, but what else? In an ideal world, I slap on the PSS10, new camber plates (if necessary), get the measurements dialed in, and that’s it. Unless there’s other things that are highly recommended. Thank you, sorry if this is redundant.

    #2
    What's your budget?
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #3
      Originally posted by oceansize View Post
      What's your budget?
      Realistically probably $3k.

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        #4
        I run PSS10s, and for someone like you that’s driving more spirited with the occasional track day, you can’t beat them for the price. My last M3 had PSS10s on ARC-8s 18x9.5 ET 35 with a 12 mm spacer on the back and I love the way it felt. And you can keep your stock top hats with PSS10s. Remove the alignment pin and it should get you right around -1.5 degrees camber. Try that and if you need more camber you can always get camber plates. I use Turner hybrids, they’re pretty nice…
        ‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop

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          #5
          Originally posted by sbay View Post
          I run PSS10s, and for someone like you that’s driving more spirited with the occasional track day, you can’t beat them for the price. My last M3 had PSS10s on ARC-8s 18x9.5 ET 35 with a 12 mm spacer on the back and I love the way it felt. And you can keep your stock top hats with PSS10s. Remove the alignment pin and it should get you right around -1.5 degrees camber. Try that and if you need more camber you can always get camber plates. I use Turner hybrids, they’re pretty nice…
          Thank you! Were you lowered and if so were you bottoming out any? I believe camber plates are recommended if you’re lowering the car, as they will provide more travel.

          Comment


            #6
            Literally any coilover setup is probably going to feel better than Eibach springs on stock shocks. Even Megan racing.

            That being said, I would look at Ohlins, AST, Moton, KW, Suspension Techniques, Nitron, & MCS if you want something good that will transform the car.

            The next tier down would be stuff like BC racing, Feal, Fortune Auto, Mfactory, H&R, Bilstein, etc
            2004 Dinan S3-R M3
            2023 X3M Competition

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              #7
              Originally posted by MyZCP View Post

              Thank you! Were you lowered and if so were you bottoming out any? I believe camber plates are recommended if you’re lowering the car, as they will provide more travel.
              I was lowered but not slammed….I didn’t really scrape on any speed bumps and the ride never felt harsh. Don’t really remember bottoming out much either
              ‘02 TiAg/Impulse Slicktop

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                #8
                $3000 budget? TC Kline single adjustable. Call him and ask for a spring rate recommendation and his E46 setup sheet. You will even have a little money left over for odds and ends.

                Don't lower the car too much or it will not handle properly. The consensus is 13.5" front and 13" rear.

                Old, not obsolete.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by D-O View Post
                  $3000 budget? TC Kline single adjustable. Call him and ask for a spring rate recommendation and his E46 setup sheet. You will even have a little money left over for odds and ends.

                  Don't lower the car too much or it will not handle properly. The consensus is 13.5" front and 13" rear.
                  Hmmm. Are TCKs easily adjustable like the Bilstein’s? I read somewhere it’s a pain to adjust, vs the easy dial.

                  What exactly does 13.5”/13” mean, as in where is this measured from? What is stock height? If I’m currently running 0.9” drop in front and 0.6” in rear, what am I at now?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The TCK's are adjusted at the top with a knob. The rear can be a pain simply because access to the upper shock mount is a pain if your trunk trim is in place. You can just cut an access flap to get at them. The front also adjust at the top with a knob - very easy.

                    I have one setting I like for the street and one for the track, so I don't adjust them too much.

                    Front: 13.5" from the center of the wheel cap to the highest point of the front fender opening.

                    Rear: 13.0" measured using the same method as the front

                    That said, it is easier to measure the outer diameter of your wheel and add half of that to the above measurements and just measure from the bottom lip of the wheel. More repeatable than the center of the center cap!

                    Here is a good discussion on ride height:

                    Went through the depths of this thread and after all of that I took away the recommendation to keep my suspension at OE ride height (my car 80/20 street/track) but I don’t think I ever found documentation of the rear spec height from the factory. Can someone confirm this for me, front is below: - Stock ride height up front is
                    Old, not obsolete.

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                      #11
                      Here is another:
                      I've been doing some suspension upgrades on my M3 and in the process taking lots of measurements. It has been a pretty eye-opening experience. All throughout my E46 ownership, I thought there was some small amount of lowering that will not result in a practical performance decrease. That's why I went with the Dinan spring/Koni
                      Old, not obsolete.

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                        #12
                        I'd just run the PSS instead of the PSS10 and spend the extra money saved on Vorshlag camber plates.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by D-O View Post
                          Here is another:
                          Yep. Generally, the lower you go, the worse you make the car.


                          2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                          2012 LMB/Black 128i
                          100 Series Land Cruiser

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