Originally posted by RazorM
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E86 Front Triangulation Braces Retrofit
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostStill have some finishing work to do. Now on to figuring out the strut mounts and mounting the bars. The challenge here is serviceability. I would like the two new braces to mount under the OEM bar so it is less to remove if I need to remove the intake manifold.
I am also going to do the strut tower mounts in long strand forged carbon. I am leaning towards making them thinner like Heinz’s process to fit the 3rd lug so I can make a plate which goes between the cross bar and the strut plates. Then bolt the triangle braces to the plate…like Heinz’s design.
Or maybe I mount the two braces under the strut tower plate and run a bolt through…
Originally posted by RazorM View PostAmazing project and effort! Can’t fully say how much I appreciate this. Hopefully more people will get to use this diy for their cars and change the car for better.
I have a question. What is the reason to use or start with OEM aluminum strut brace? Are not there better and way stiffer 3piece alternatives like DMG or so? Since you can also remove the middle section of the brace for easier serviceability.
I understand that in an event of crash stiffer braces may damage the car more. But was it so big priority or you think there is not much of a stiffness available to be gained?
Designs like the DMG bar are useful because they help reduce strut tower fore/aft deflection (relative to the other strut tower) with the torsionally stiffer bar. However, tying the strut towers directly into the firewall (which is essentially immovable in comparison) constrains the fore/aft deflection, so I don't think there's much to be gained from a stiffer middle bar.
Also, both the E46 and E86 braces are notched and designed to fail before anything else in a crash. Since they don't fail during normal use, there is likely little to be gained by upping the stiffness of each individual part.
Originally posted by YoitsTmac View PostI actually asked my coworkers boyfriend about this, who's a lead chassis designer at a world-renown automotive manufacturer. Wish I still had his big blurb, but basically, the gain by merely tying it in is so substantial, that as long as your tube stiffness is reasonable, the gains switching materials is so marginal it wouldn't be recognizable. He then said I could do it in chromium, but we didn't talk about temperature. There is tension fatigue, but the bar itself is so cheap it hardly comes into consideration.
Also, temp data coming soon:
2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
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