Critique My Build Plan - 15yrs of ownership and ready to refresh

[tnord]

I've been interested in buying a 911 for over a decade, and probably should have done it when I first started thinking about it, but didn't. I recently had the opportunity to drive a well equipped 2006 Carerra S with PCCB, and while I liked it, I didn't walk away with a "I HAVE to get one" reaction. I'm not saying it was a perfect example but it was decently cared for with 58k on the clock. My friend told me he wanted near $50k for it, and I just don't see that car as offering a $50k experience. Something that starts with a $3x,xxx and I might be a buyer.

As such, I'm looking to finally focus on putting new life back into the M3. I bought this car back in 2010 with ~80k miles, daily drove it for about 2 years until our first kid was born, and it's largely sat on the side for the better part of a decade. It's an early 2003.5 now with 111k miles. I've thrown the full Beisan catalogue at it, did the BE coated bearings, cooling system, and some other basic maintenance. More fun stuff is the CPI RTX, SS res X pipe, SS Sport, and Evolve airbox with Kassel MAP conversion and tune. It's about to get a significant refresh as the H&R/Koni suspension is corroded and at the end of its life, the old Michelin super sports are cracking, and the RACP needs to be done which brings a ton of other "while you're at it" items.

The car will primarily be used for street duty and needs to be well mannered, but I do want it to be "track competent." It will see a few 200 mile road trips each way every year, and if it sees the track it will be driven there and back. I also want it to feel like an occasion when I drive it. For each item I generally want the best available part for the stated purpose. Some of these items are probably unnecessary, others there may be a better option, some things are omitted, and some I'll never get around to. But I have to start somewhere and I generally haven't been able to keep up with all the chassis development over the last decade. Hoping the collective can provide some guidance.

Generally planning on addressing the RACP/Diff first, then chassis, then interior, then body, then engine.

So here you go, with BF coming I'm on the looking for deals on anything and everything.

Chassis
MCS 1WNR	$ 4,500
Turner Monoballl FCAB	$ 250
SDW RTAB	$ 265
SPL Endlinks	$ 225
SPL Adjustable Camber Arms	$ 400
Millway Motorports Upper Rear Shock Mount	$ 190
Chassis Subtotal	$ 5,830
RACP / Diff
BW Alum Subframe Mounts	$ 265
BW/Rogue Plates & Chassis Brace	$ 700
OE Differential Front Mount	$ 50
E36 Diff Cover Bushings	$ 150
RACP / Diff Subtotal	$ 1,165
Interior
Steering Wheel	$ 950
Recaro Sportster CS	$ 3,000
Alcantara Trim	$ 1,000
Interior Subtotal	$ 3,950
Engine
CSF Radiator	$ 615
CSF Oil Cooler	$ 550
Schrick 288/280	$ 2,400
DLC Cam followers	$ 1,700
Epic Tune	$ 600
Supersprint Header w/Sport Cats Sect 1	$ 6,200
Engine Subtotal	$ 12,065
Body
Euro bumper	$ 700
Karbonius Carbon Roof	$ 2,000
Karbonius CSL Trunk	$ 2,000
Body Subtotal	$ 4,700

[Slideways]

That list is more track car than street car. Have to dial it back IMO. Mainly the MCS, monoball FCABS, 288/280 DLC, CSF.

[tnord]

I'm more than happy to leave off the monoball FCABs, but I thought I had read on here that they don't increase NVH?

The cams are way down the priority list, but as long as it still holds idle why they would make it less street worthy?

I've gone back and forth on the MCS in my head a million times. Part of me wants to get the PSS10, but the other part of me thinks that a higher quality damper with modest spring rates will ride just as well, and definitely feel more "special" ever time I get in it?

[Tbonem3]

Mcs is like eating Bestia while everyone else is at Wendys

[9kracing]

lol this whole build looks familiar.



OK, since you're doing Millway rear shock mounts, I'd also run their FCABs (I do in fact), and I'd suggest their RTABs as well. Keep it in the family. Plus, Millway > Turner.

Again, on the subframe mounts I'd go Millway since you're already running them and they are A++ quality. The Rogue chassis brace and exhaust braces are totally unnecessary and I only run them since it's a show car, but if you have money to burn then what the hell.


I'd go with do88 over CSF, but I'm also mildly retarded


Looks like an epic build, I'm sure it'll be quite the car when you're done

[9kracing]

Mcs is like eating Bestia while everyone else is at Wendys

Personally, I'd run the Nitron R1 over the MCS for the same price.

[DJAM3]

I think your order of priorities is about right since you already have an Evolve airbox. I think I would do the headers before body though. Get a good set of lightweight wheels and maybe an Autosolutions SSK after getting the RACP and suspension sorted. At that point the car should be well suited for double duty.

[tnord]

lol this whole build looks familiar.



OK, since you're doing Millway rear shock mounts, I'd also run their FCABs (I do in fact), and I'd suggest their RTABs as well. Keep it in the family. Plus, Millway > Turner.

Again, on the subframe mounts I'd go Millway since you're already running them and they are A++ quality. The Rogue chassis brace and exhaust braces are totally unnecessary and I only run them since it's a show car, but if you have money to burn then what the hell.


I'd go with do88 over CSF, but I'm also mildly retarded


Looks like an epic build, I'm sure it'll be quite the car when you're done

how's the NVH with the solid FCAB/RTAB? Happy to use them for the subframe as well if they're better - what makes them better?

The rogue chassis brace I'm referring to is the topside RACP reinforcement, not the v-brace underneath the car.

I'll never get all the way through the list. It's more to keep myself organized so I can watch for deals on BF, classifieds, etc, and keep moving towards a specific target.

[tnord]

Personally, I'd run the Nitron R1 over the MCS for the same price.

I've started to look at the Nitron R1 as well, curious why you'd prefer them? The MCS seems to be pretty universally well regarded.

[tnord]

I think your order of priorities is about right since you already have an Evolve airbox. I think I would do the headers before body though. Get a good set of lightweight wheels and maybe an Autosolutions SSK after getting the RACP and suspension sorted. At that point the car should be well suited for double duty.

I have Apex EC-7 18x9 and 18x10 on 255/275 with I think an E60D short shifter and delrin in the linkage.

I've been poking around and period correct BBS wheels, but unless I spend big money there's not a ton to gain.

with 110k+ miles the car needs some paint/bodywork as it is. I know there's a lot to be had from headers, but I don't feel like the car really "needs" more power. But I do often look at the knicked up bumpers, door dings, etc and it bothers me.

[PSUEng]

Your story is similar to mine, but very different refresh/renew list. I made the decision to make it a project back in 2022 and this year, finalized much of my plan. My mileage is approx. 87k, owned since 2007 with 27k miles.

Back in 2022 when the original cats failed, the rear diff bushings failed and fuel was splashing out of the filler neck during refill instead of the pump clicking off I thought, "Ok, I'll fix all this"...then it just went into, what else can I do to keep it reliable, increase the fun factor and what parts should I buy since I started to notice prices beginning rise.

So, I got in on a SS group buy and refreshed all the hangers/hardware/sensors and got an HTE tune; had the rear diff cover (w/latest bolt part number) and front diff bushing done, replaced the charcoal canister and associated bits...

Then I was looking at the wiper cowl, hood vent, and some exterior stuff like wheel caps, the hood emblem, grilles....replaced all that.

Then I found Alex's interior refinish service, which really had an impact on the interior, as well as I replaced A/C pillars...

And just went on with basic stuff like fluids, belts/alternator/fan/fan clutch...

Then I started buying parts "for later" (fuel pump, starter, HVAC blower, VANOS, cooling system) jobs.

Then I found a local detailer who did excellent work and had a paint correct/coating done.

And now I'm pretty much done until it's clutch time/rod bearing time.

So, like you point out, I too wanted it to be an occasion when I drive it and it is. I'm also priced out of a P-car so I'll hold on to the M3 for a while longer; maybe that will change at some point.

I think your list is more track focused and I don't track so can't comment on those choices, but overall at least you are planning it and I'd just offer up advice to make sure you've got the basics in order (RTABs, steering system hoses are good and no leaks, alternator/starter, fuel pump kind of stuff...reliability things) too!

[tnord]

I don't want it to be a track focused build, and if things like the monoball FCABs add NVH that I won't want to deal with on a 3hr road trip, then I'll happily skip them. That's what I need everyones input for. I haven't done a good job of keeping up with all the development with this car over the past 12 year through two kids, two moves, five job changes, and an on-again-off-again pursuit of competitive amateur golf.

But when I got this car I think the collective opinion was to never put any solid bushings in the car anywhere, and now I think it's accepted that solid subframe, solid RTAB, and others don't add any noticeable NVH. I've watched the tuner du-jour go from epic, to TTFS, to the scotland guy, to hassan, to a mullet tune. Point being a lot has changed over the years, and please tell me I'm wrong wherever the modification listed violates the stated objective of a well-mannered, street focused, but track competent build.

I haven't listed out everything I've done since I bought the car because it's a long list and I really didn't want to flip through my records. But yes, most of the basic items have already been done once. New OE FCABs, powerflex RTABs, motor mounts, rogue trans mounts, trans and diff fluids (though my trans is a whole nother issue, and I need to really get into a 6sp ZF swap research), slave cylinder, guibo, CSB, fuel filter, valve adjustment, new plugs, new coil, reconditioned injectors, headlight lenses, short center console, new plastic around the HVAC and new sunglass cubby, coby alcantara ebrake boot/handle/shift boot/zhp knob, new trunk plastics, new hood plastic, fender blinker, license plate lights, muffler hangers, zimmerman rotors w/textar and motul dot4............I dunno, that's most of it but even though I've driven it very little the last decade I still try to slowly keep bringing it back.

I have an F30 340 xdrive (estoril w/track pack, eibach euro springs, TA5, and bootmod3 stage 1) as my daily runner, a F15 X5, and a new G05 X5 that I try to maintain myself as much as I can. Anytime I need to order an oil change kit or whatever I try to throw a little something in for the M3 as a reward for taking the time to do the job myself rather than pay a shop, which is how I end up doing so many small random things like replacing the yellowed little blinker lights on the fenders.

[dreamdrivedrift]

Looks like a very familiar build to me too, haha. It'll be a GREAT street setup, I actually think my car is more like a M3 CS. A little bit tarted up, but not a total track car by any means.

One comment. Ditch the CSF. Either go OEM, or DO88. I went CSF and my car started overheating, for whatever reason, it's does not evacuate heat well with the S54. If you really want the CSF, I'll sell you the one sitting in my garage for a deal 🤣

[9kracing]

If this is a street car, then yes, the parts you've selected are going to transmit NVH and you probably won't be happy. Especially hearing you say things like a "3 hour road trip"

When you go spherical you have to understand the nuances and limitations that come with it... you are going to hear clunking, things will be loud, and the car will be stiff. Parts require maintenance, and with no deflection in the rubber, everything better be up to snuff or you're going to have other parts fail. It is not suggested for street cars. My car sees little to no street use... and when I do drive it on the street I'm prepared for the sacrifices in comfort and noise.

That being said - if you buy quality parts with good bearings (Aurora, FK) and you make sure things are serviced in a timely matter, and everything is greased, you shouldn't have any issues. A spherical car can be surprisingly compliant on the street if setup properly.

[9kracing]

I've started to look at the Nitron R1 as well, curious why you'd prefer them? The MCS seems to be pretty universally well regarded.

MCS is well regarded cause it's the Spec E46 suspension. And yeah, it's a good coilover. But I personally don't find it superior to Ohlins, KW, AST, Moton, or others, I actually think it's over hyped. But, I've only ridden in one car with it, maybe it just wasn't setup right.

I've never ridden in a car with Nitron, but I was looking closely at them at the Bimmerinvasion booth and they seemed really nice. The quality is way up there.