Critique My Build Plan - 15yrs of ownership and ready to refresh

[tnord]

what do you know about the R1s?

R3s feel like mega overkill for my application.

[tnord]

I'm planning on taking advantage of some sales in the next week. Are there any issues with using the Bimmerworld solid aluminum subframe mounts and Rogue bottom side reinforcement plates for my stated purpose? I'm also planning on some topside work, but I don't think that really matters what you put on the bottom?

[tnord]

well, I went a slightly different direction than I had initially thought.

I ordered Ohlins R&T, Meyle HD rear mounts (to replace the BW lifetime), stock RTAB w/limiters (to replace the powerflex poly), BW aluminum subframe mounts, BW reinforcement kit, and SPL front endlinks today.

add new PS4S in the spring to replace my supersports from 2012 and it should feel like a totally different car. I ended up going with much more of a street oriented setup than I initially thought. I'll probably be raising the car a little from the H&R ride height, and taking some poly out should result in both a much better handling car, but also more compliant ride quality.

[oceansize]

well, I went a slightly different direction than I had initially thought.

I ordered Ohlins R&T, Meyle HD rear mounts (to replace the BW lifetime), stock RTAB w/limiters (to replace the powerflex poly), BW aluminum subframe mounts, BW reinforcement kit, and SPL front endlinks today.

add new PS4S in the spring to replace my supersports from 2012 and it should feel like a totally different car. I ended up going with much more of a street oriented setup than I initially thought. I'll probably be raising the car a little from the H&R ride height, and taking some poly out should result in both a much better handling car, but also more compliant ride quality.

Only thing I would say is solid rtabs would have been just fine. I went with new oe, to new oe with limiters, to solid and solid is best. Then penalty is almost nil. I'm only solid on subframe, rtabs, and rear camber arms.

[Slideways]

well, I went a slightly different direction than I had initially thought.

I ordered Ohlins R&T, Meyle HD rear mounts (to replace the BW lifetime), stock RTAB w/limiters (to replace the powerflex poly), BW aluminum subframe mounts, BW reinforcement kit, and SPL front endlinks today.

add new PS4S in the spring to replace my supersports from 2012 and it should feel like a totally different car. I ended up going with much more of a street oriented setup than I initially thought. I'll probably be raising the car a little from the H&R ride height, and taking some poly out should result in both a much better handling car, but also more compliant ride quality.

If you don't want to go through the effort of installing RTABs plus limiters, you can leave the PF RTABs. Out of all PF parts, the RTABS tend to last and performance will be similar.

[tnord]

they were on sale at BW for $40, and I have an annoying clunk the rear over bumps when it’s cold so I decided to give them a shot.

I guess I could leave the PF installed and if I’m still not happy I could do it later.

The Ohlins should be a good place to start, and if I want a sharper handling car I can do bars, spherical, plates, or go to the MCS. If it’s still too harsh then PSS10 is probably for me. The Koni/H&R came on the car when I bought it, and I don’t think it’s really ever been in great shape. excited to check this item off the list.

[Maxhouse97]

Can someone tell me what the A/C pillar services, is there someone you can send these pillars to and they can refinish them?

Your story is similar to mine, but very different refresh/renew list. I made the decision to make it a project back in 2022 and this year, finalized much of my plan. My mileage is approx. 87k, owned since 2007 with 27k miles.

Back in 2022 when the original cats failed, the rear diff bushings failed and fuel was splashing out of the filler neck during refill instead of the pump clicking off I thought, "Ok, I'll fix all this"...then it just went into, what else can I do to keep it reliable, increase the fun factor and what parts should I buy since I started to notice prices beginning rise.

So, I got in on a SS group buy and refreshed all the hangers/hardware/sensors and got an HTE tune; had the rear diff cover (w/latest bolt part number) and front diff bushing done, replaced the charcoal canister and associated bits...

Then I was looking at the wiper cowl, hood vent, and some exterior stuff like wheel caps, the hood emblem, grilles....replaced all that.

Then I found Alex's interior refinish service, which really had an impact on the interior, as well as I replaced A/C pillars...

And just went on with basic stuff like fluids, belts/alternator/fan/fan clutch...

Then I started buying parts "for later" (fuel pump, starter, HVAC blower, VANOS, cooling system) jobs.

Then I found a local detailer who did excellent work and had a paint correct/coating done.

And now I'm pretty much done until it's clutch time/rod bearing time.

So, like you point out, I too wanted it to be an occasion when I drive it and it is. I'm also priced out of a P-car so I'll hold on to the M3 for a while longer; maybe that will change at some point.

I think your list is more track focused and I don't track so can't comment on those choices, but overall at least you are planning it and I'd just offer up advice to make sure you've got the basics in order (RTABs, steering system hoses are good and no leaks, alternator/starter, fuel pump kind of stuff...reliability things) too!