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Whiteline FCABs, is this right?

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    Whiteline FCABs, is this right?

    I bought a set of Whiteline front control arms bushings (W53518) from Turner during the Black Friday sales, and they finally arrived today. Unfortunately, one doesn't seem right to me. On the passenger side unit, the outer bushing is completely loose and will rotate in the bracket with no resistance at all. I'm pretty sure this should be a press fit with no play, but it has probably 10 thousands or more of radial play.

    The drivers side unit seems great, the outer bushing is firmly in the housing with no play. The inner keyed portions on each will rotate smoothly with a fair amount of resistance, as I was expecting.

    This is the first time I've ever messed with a part like this, but this is an issue and shouldn't be installed, correct? My current FCABs seem fine but they're at least 15 years old, so I figured it would be good to replace them. I plan to reach out to Turner or Whiteline one tomorrow and see what they say, I'd like to know if this is normal or not though before I do.

    #2
    Originally posted by Barracooda View Post
    The inner keyed portions on each will rotate smoothly with a fair amount of resistance, as I was expecting.
    Why do the inner parts need to be able to rotate? Stock part doesn't have any part/section that can rotate. I would think the whole bushing should not be able to rotate, to achieve a zero plays as its function requires.

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      #3
      Whiteline is owned by an Australian company called​ Zeder Corporation / Fulcrum

      They have lifetime warranty so replacement shouldn't be issue

      They have a a top notch line called SuperPro which is far superior

      I couldn't see the FCAB with bracket on their line up like in your picture so maybe these don't suit the E46 M3 FCAB

      Contact them here for clarification = https://superpro-suspension.com/au/contact-us

      Website for E46 M3 = https://superpro-suspension.com/au/s...list_mode=list



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      Last edited by BL92; 12-19-2025, 02:45 PM.

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        #4
        Originally posted by sapote View Post
        Why do the inner parts need to be able to rotate? Stock part doesn't have any part/section that can rotate. I would think the whole bushing should not be able to rotate, to achieve a zero plays as its function requires.
        I assume the stock rubber busings have enough deflection where it's not needed, as long as they're clocked properly in the bracket. Many of the aftermarket bushings are a two piece design where the keyed inner portion can rotate freely as needed.

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          #5
          Originally posted by BL92 View Post
          Whiteline is owned by an Australian company called​ Fulcrum Suspensions

          They have lifetime warranty so replacement shouldn't be issue

          They have a a top notch line called SuperPro which is far superior

          I couldn't see the FCAB with bracket on their line up like in your picture so maybe these don't suit the E46 M3 FCAB

          Contact them here for clarification = https://superpro-suspension.com/au/contact-us

          Website for E46 M3 = https://superpro-suspension.com/au/s...list_mode=list
          Here's the E46 M3 product on the Whiteline site.

          Worn front control arm bushings have a huge influence on vehicle stability, steering precision and braking efficiency. Replace worn bushings to as new condition utilising Whiteline's advanced synthetic elastomer bushings with core characteristics ensuring superior elasticity, memory and outright durability for all form


          Here's the same product from Vorsglag, they have a much better description of the design and functionality.

          Vorshlag is an Authorized dealer for Whiteline products and we know the E46 chassis well - we have raced and built many of these. One of the sloppiest rubber bushings on the BMW E46 chassis is the in the front lower control arm bushings. The back of the lower control arm is held in place with a LARGE rubber bushing tha


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            #6
            I talked to Whiteline / Superpro US tech support over the phone. They advised that this is normal, and everything will tighten up and lock into place once the bushing is pressed onto the control arm. I'm skeptical of this answer, if the outer bushing was just slightly loose with very little clearance then I could maybe see it working like that.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Barracooda View Post
              I talked to Whiteline / Superpro US tech support over the phone. They advised that this is normal, and everything will tighten up and lock into place once the bushing is pressed onto the control arm. I'm skeptical of this answer, if the outer bushing was just slightly loose with very little clearance then I could maybe see it working like that.
              Normal that only one has movement? I'd be asking more questions about that and "tighten up"? I'd be suspect and return them, just run the OE stuff. There is a forum member here ( the_fly )that offers a service to press in new BMW bushings into your lollipops which is very convenient and saves some money. Highly recommended (by me as a customer of his).

              EDIT: Thinking about this, if the bushing is loose in the housing now, with no load--how much does it "tighten" up upon installation such that under load the actual bushing is reacting the loading from the FCA? Yeah, I'd bail on these. I just can't imagine that scenario.
              Last edited by PSUEng; 12-19-2025, 01:20 PM.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Barracooda View Post

                I assume the stock rubber busings have enough deflection where it's not needed, as long as they're clocked properly in the bracket. Many of the aftermarket bushings are a two piece design where the keyed inner portion can rotate freely as needed.
                The keyed inner part: is it a hard plastic Hex shape? Wonder why they needed to make it with hard plastic that requires hex keying instead of having a 1-piece rubber bushing that needs no keying. It broke at the outer join and not the inner part (for stock bushing)

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                  #9
                  I think the design is solid, but one of the new lollipops has a bit too much clearance inside. My understanding is that these are a bit firmer than stock, but less so than most poly options. A lot of the poly bushings now also have a center portion that can rotate like the spherical ones.

                  With this design, the inner portion is tapered to hold it in place. If I push the center outwards so the taper engages more of the outer portion, it does tighten up and lock into place. I think I'll see how it feels once it's on the control arm. If it's still loose and I can manage to press out the outer portion without damaging it, I'm pretty sure I could just take up the slack with some shim stock.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Barracooda View Post
                    If I push the center outwards so the taper engages more of the outer portion, it does tighten up and lock into place..
                    I'm not sure outward is the right word for this; I would think the center piece only can move fore/aft.
                    If it tighten up when you push the center rearward for example, then it also can move forward by itself and cause plays.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by sapote View Post

                      I'm not sure outward is the right word for this; I would think the center piece only can move fore/aft.
                      If it tighten up when you push the center rearward for example, then it also can move forward by itself and cause plays.
                      Yeah that wasn't the best wording. It is actually rearwards in relation to how they're installed on the car. I'm a novice at understanding the suspension design on these car, so I don't know if rearward travel from the control arms is something that occurs, when it occurs, or if some compliance is desirable.

                      I researched before purchasing and couldn't find a ton of people running these Whiteline bushings, but what I read was positive. Little to no increase in NVH and perhaps a bit better durability and steering feel. The price was right so I figured I'd try them.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Barracooda View Post
                        I bought a set of Whiteline front control arms bushings (W53518) from Turner during the Black Friday sales, and they finally arrived today. Unfortunately, one doesn't seem right to me. On the passenger side unit, the outer bushing is completely loose and will rotate in the bracket with no resistance at all. I'm pretty sure this should be a press fit with no play, but it has probably 10 thousands or more of radial play.

                        The drivers side unit seems great, the outer bushing is firmly in the housing with no play. The inner keyed portions on each will rotate smoothly with a fair amount of resistance, as I was expecting.

                        This is the first time I've ever messed with a part like this, but this is an issue and shouldn't be installed, correct? My current FCABs seem fine but they're at least 15 years old, so I figured it would be good to replace them. I plan to reach out to Turner or Whiteline one tomorrow and see what they say, I'd like to know if this is normal or not though before I do.
                        I wouldn't use them. The inner bushing should rotate with no radial play. I don't like non-OEM FCAB housings...that might be the issue here. Although I am running the Turner monoball FCABs with an aftermarket housing.

                        Comment


                          #13
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                          2004 Dinan S3-R M3
                          2023 X3M Competition

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                            #14
                            I had my sides swapped, it was actually the drivers side unit that was questionable. I got it fitted up today and Whiteline support was indeed correct. Once it was pressed onto the control arm it tightened right up. All the play and movement of the outer bushing to the housing is gone completely. The inner portion still rotates appropriately, firm but able to move as needed.

                            Unfortunately I ran into the same issue as another recent FCAB thread, my threads in one of the mounting holes were completely mangled when I removed the original bolt, which was also damaged. I tried running a tap through it and it seemed like it might work out. I was able to torque a new bolt to 30 ft lbs, but after that it started spinning and I wasn't able to torque it fully. Looks like a helicoil or time-sert is the next step for me.

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                              #15
                              Damn that sucks
                              2004 Dinan S3-R M3
                              2023 X3M Competition

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