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Front tower plates, weld or epoxy?

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    Front tower plates, weld or epoxy?

    I had someone come weld the cracks on my front strut tower and am contemplating having them come back to weld in reinforcement plates.

    This may be overkill but I thought it might not be a bad idea. Someone please chime in if this isn't worth the trouble compared to just sandwiching them between the tower/camber plates.

    I am no structural engineer but I imagine welding/epoxy them would be stronger.

    That got me thinking of my Vincebar, and maybe doing this myself with panel bond epoxy.
    When you stich weld the plates in you are now painting the permiter of the towers as opposed to just the tops of the towers.

    My old BC coilovers had much stiffer spring, but had an OEM-like size in reagrds to the camber plates, my new TCK's have much softer spring but a significantly smaller surface area, I wish turner plates would work.


    As always, any input is appreciated.

    Pictures from Vorshlag:

    Click image for larger version

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    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
    Instagram

    #2
    i personally wouldnt weld them.

    Comment


      #3
      Because of how visible they are, I wouldn't weld them unless there were cracks already.

      I am no structural engineer either, but if you sandwich the epoxy between the plate and the underside of the strut tower, intuitively if feels like you're spreading the load over a much larger surface area. And that feels stronger. Due to the prep involved to ensure a solid bond, I'd just want to make sure it was rust-proofed afterwards, but you'd being needing to do that for the welding approach too.

      I'm avoiding definitive words because of the first 5 words in my prior paragraph...

      Do you have pics of yours?
      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
        Because of how visible they are, I wouldn't weld them unless there were cracks already.

        I am no structural engineer either, but if you sandwich the epoxy between the plate and the underside of the strut tower, intuitively if feels like you're spreading the load over a much larger surface area. And that feels stronger. Due to the prep involved to ensure a solid bond, I'd just want to make sure it was rust-proofed afterwards, but you'd being needing to do that for the welding approach too.

        I'm avoiding definitive words because of the first 5 words in my prior paragraph...

        Do you have pics of yours?
        I have hairline cracks on the rearmost two holes on each strurt tower that have been welded. Unfortunately, the weld did not go through on a the cracks, I can still see some cracks from the bottom but the welder told me he thought it would be OK.

        Click image for larger version

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        Attached Files
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

        Comment


          #5
          I just found your other post (https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...tower-tig-weld) and came back here to update my post and saw you already posted.

          Damn dude... that sucks. And it didn't crack where I thought it might have.
          Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

          Comment


            #6
            I epoxied plates on the underside close to a decade ago when doing the tower repair, close to 30k miles, still good


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
              I epoxied plates on the underside close to a decade ago when doing the tower repair, close to 30k miles, still good


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              Did you just use 3 bolts to hold the plates in place while the epoxy set?

              I was thinking if I do use epoxy I may also use the 2 rivet holes as well and then drill them out later as they interfere w/ the camber plates.

              I may just sandwich them in and call in good, I just don't like that I still have cracks on the underside, I suppose I could have the welder come back by and hit those exposed cracks.
              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
              Instagram

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                I was thinking if I do use epoxy I may also use the 2 rivet holes as well and then drill them out later as they interfere w/ the camber plates.
                Why not use some clamps through the hole in the strut tower?
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                  Why not use some clamps through the hole in the strut tower?
                  I suppose that would work, trying to think of the most effective way to do this. Was thinking of bolting in an OEM top hat for the surface area and using the rivets but clamps may do just as well.

                  I wonder if I use epoxy if I can skip having to have the welder come back over and also avoid the cleanup of weld underneath which would be harder with the tools I have.

                  Also, I would assume 3M 07333 would be the go to adhesive here.
                  Last edited by Cubieman; 12-29-2025, 04:59 PM.
                  2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                  Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                  Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                  OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                  RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                  2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                  Instagram

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ​Team Schirmer E46 with full cage has these plates -

                    Click image for larger version  Name:	plates.jpg Views:	0 Size:	143.0 KB ID:	331631

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Slideways View Post
                      ​Team Schirmer E46 with full cage has these plates -

                      Click image for larger version Name:	plates.jpg Views:	0 Size:	143.0 KB ID:	331631
                      They should have done something similar from factory, this is just such a weak area.

                      I understand with stock suspension it isn't such an issue but just looking at these thin towers hanging out on in space with no triangulation or anything really is just silly.
                      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                      Instagram

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Slideways View Post
                        ​Team Schirmer E46 with full cage has these plates -
                        Every time I see the details of one of their cars, it makes me want to go build a dedicated E46 track car. Their stuff is just so well executed.
                        Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                          I suppose that would work, trying to think of the most effective way to do this. Was thinking of bolting in an OEM top hat for the surface area and using the rivets but clamps may do just as well.

                          I wonder if I use epoxy if I can skip having to have the welder come back over and also avoid the cleanup of weld underneath which would be harder with the tools I have.

                          Also, I would assume 3M 07333 would be the go to adhesive here.
                          yes, this is how I did it

                          Comment

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