S54 Vanos Info Thread

[cakM3]

I would think for a thread that has lots of useful information regarding VANOS maintenance that this thread would be a sticky. Surprised it has not been....

[cakM3]

Ian, this thread should be made into a sticky...

[LatinSkllz]

Man. I’m trying to follow beisan, TIS, and other misc threads but still struggling to keep timing after pretension. It’s slightly off after 15 tries. I feel like I have to really lock down the hub for it not to cause movement on camshaft. I make sure that cams are at TDC with alignment bridge before starting pretension, found them sweet spot on both hubs…

Am I missing something? The videos make it looks like the screws aren’t tightened as much.

I did cost the cup/washer behind hub with assembly oil but don’t think that would cause an issue would it? I guess it could be an issue if it’s causing the hub to slide a little.


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[eacmen]

Man. I’m trying to follow beisan, TIS, and other misc threads but still struggling to keep timing after pretension. It’s slightly off after 15 tries. I feel like I have to really lock down the hub for it not to cause movement on camshaft. I make sure that cams are at TDC with alignment bridge before starting pretension, found them sweet spot on both hubs…

Am I missing something? The videos make it looks like the screws aren’t tightened as much.

I did cost the cup/washer behind hub with assembly oil but don’t think that would cause an issue would it? I guess it could be an issue if it’s causing the hub to slide a little.


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During the step where you are tightening down the VANOS to the head I usually install a long screwdriver or dowel into the cam holes. This is not to lock the cams in place, but rather make it easy to see if the cams are moving while bolting up the VANOS.

[LatinSkllz]

During the step where you are tightening down the VANOS to the head I usually install a long screwdriver or dowel into the cam holes. This is not to lock the cams in place, but rather make it easy to see if the cams are moving while bolting up the VANOS.

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off. Beisan say to rock the cams back into full retard mode further in the steps which I haven’t done so maybe that’s it. However the videos only don’t appear to need that step.


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[eacmen]

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off. Beisan say to rock the cams back into full retard mode further in the steps which I haven’t done so maybe that’s it. However the videos only don’t appear to need that step.


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When checking the timing you definitely need to rock the cams to make sure they are at full retard. With the vanos attached the cams might be hard to get to full retard.

There are some neat tricks in this video series;

https://youtu.be/7xh7aJl1OxQ

[eacmen]

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off. Beisan say to rock the cams back into full retard mode further in the steps which I haven’t done so maybe that’s it. However the videos only don’t appear to need that step.


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Also when trying to visually observe a degree of movement you might need something longer than a punch to see it. I use a 24 inch screwdriver and an 18 inch dowel.

[LatinSkllz]

Is having the diaphragm spring and washer lubricated ok install an issue or should I clean them with brake cleaner?


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[eacmen]

Is having the diaphragm spring and washer lubricated ok install an issue or should I clean them with brake cleaner?


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IMO should be fine. I used a little engine oil when doing mine.

[Cubieman]

I would think having a bit of oil or assembly lube on all moving parts would be nice to account for the brief moment before oil pressure builds.

[sapote]

When checking the timing you definitely need to rock the cams to make sure they are at full retard.

When checking the cams timing with the bridge tool, either the pin fits the cams holes or not. Why the need to rock the cams at this step (it sounds more like to set the cams timing and not to check their timing)?

[sapote]

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off.

What to inspect on the hub? The hub should turn CCW during bolting down the vanos module.

"Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off." I am not clear what screws you're talking about; vanos module bolts or the hubs bolts?

"However the videos only don’t appear to need that step." What video? There are thousands of video floating in the internet.

" It’s slightly off after 15 tries." How did you know it's off? Was this after bolting down the vanos module and turning the crank a few turns and checked with the cam bridge?

Be more specific to your question and we are sure can figure this out.

[eacmen]

When checking the cams timing with the bridge tool, either the pin fits the cams holes or not. Why the need to rock the cams at this step (it sounds more like to set the cams timing and not to check their timing)?

After rotating the engine the procedure calls for rocking the cams back and forth to ensure they are back at full retard before checking timing. If the cams were at full retard when timing was set rocking the cams should simply reset them back to the original state they were in when the engine was timed.

Are you claiming that after rotating the engine by hand adjusting the cams back to full retard is not necessary?

[Cubieman]

Are you claiming that after rotating the engine by hand adjusting the cams back to full retard is not necessary?

This part does confuse me as when timing the engine and turning it over by hand the cams should already be fully retarded and there should be no need to retard them.
It's only when the engine is run and the DME sets the EX cam slightly advanced one would need to retard the cams *I would think*.

This step must be to 100% ensure they are retarded before checking timing, the issue is if you wrench on the cam too hard CCW in an effort to retard it you may also move the crank CCW and if there is slight movement in the cam lock pin/hole you may end up slightly off.

[eacmen]

This part does confuse me as when timing the engine and turning it over by hand the cams should already be fully retarded and there should be no need to retard them.
It's only when the engine is run and the DME sets the EX cam slightly advanced one would need to retard the cams *I would think*.

This step must be to 100% ensure they are retarded before checking timing, the issue is if you wrench on the cam too hard CCW in an effort to retard it you may also move the crank CCW and if there is slight movement in the cam lock pin/hole you may end up slightly off.

I’m with you but surely setting to full retard after rotation shouldnt change the results at all. Right?

Then there is the infamous chain slop issue.

If I am being candid I think people chase perfection here when as long as you’re within a couple degrees its not going to affect performance as dual VANOS can easily correct it. The check engine light doesnt even come on unless the mechanical timing is like 10 degrees off. That being said it is definitely something you need to do the best you can to get right.