“Switch Chain Grip“....stalling out at lights

[deschodt]

My car threw the chain grip code a couple of days ago, which led me here.

I have an '03 that was converted to 6MT last year by a local shop. Mine was the first complete conversion they'd done, so I think there might be some details that were missed. I've had the idle-drop-with-clutch-in problem since Day One, as well as losing the mirror dip and parking sensor functionality. They bumped up the idle speed a bit to counter it, but at times the car is almost undriveable - particularly with the A/C on.

@deschodt (is this the deschodt with the Ghia?) - did you change the clutch switch too, or just the coding?

So yeah, I used to have a Ghia convertible loooong ago and your handle triggers some memories - KG list?
I did change the clutch switch first to the correct number (above in that thread I believe) but it made absolutely no difference. The laptop with INPA was telling me the clutch motion was detected correctly either way. The recoding with the MSS54 was what solved it 95% for me..
The car will try to die now and then at idle when coming to a stop but it's like 1/20th of what it was before and it almost never succeeds because I can see it coming more obviously. So as far as I am concerned, case closed now it's just an occasional glitch vs a daily certainty - and if I get around to cleaning the idle control valve I may get to 99%. The DME reflash to tell the car there was a conversion and no gear sensor did the trick for me !

Now before you think I'm brilliant, yesterday I spent 2 h "attempting" to replace my stuck open thermostat (seriously does anyone else get one dashboard light a week with this M3?) and a) the tube came out with the thermostat housing and would not come out of it in situ - making removal impossible, and I could not remove the bottom radiator hose despite all twisting and pulling and therefore I had to button it all up and admit defeat rather than break something. Effing car is not as easy to work on as a Ghia. Sounds a bit better though.. ;-)

[special77]

In case anyone stumbles upon this thread in the future….
following the coding instructions using a hex editor and bmw flash 100% solved this issue for my smg to 6mt. I assume that must mean the person that did my swap did not bother installing a GPS sensor. Doesn’t seem to affect the car in any way as it idles perfectly, cruise, PDC, and reverse mirror dip all work. No more random stalls and no more looks of disapproval from my gf (well, definitely less)

https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threads/cruise-and-reverse-parking-sensors-after-smg-to-manual-conversion.186233/

[thegenius46m]

In case anyone stumbles upon this thread in the future….
following the coding instructions using a hex editor and bmw flash 100% solved this issue for my smg to 6mt. I assume that must mean the person that did my swap did not bother installing a GPS sensor. Doesn’t seem to affect the car in any way as it idles perfectly, cruise, PDC, and reverse mirror dip all work. No more random stalls and no more looks of disapproval from my gf (well, definitely less)

https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threa...ersion.186233/

That is 100% the issue.

[ugaexploder]

sorry to resurrect an old thread, but just want to check with you guys before making any changes. the shop that did the conversion for the previous owner did not install the GPS 23142229113. the m3cutters link mentions modifying a couple sections of the .bin file which is no issue, but mine looks quite different.

for instance, the first step is to modify 0x4028 and OP says it should be 01 changing to 02, but mine is ff. In fact, mine is ff from 3fc0 to 40f0 with only a couple bits being something else...



2nd part, it says to change 0x35ac from 0032 to ffff

here is mine: showing 2e29


are these bits still okay to modify per the m3cutters instructions even though they are represented differently than what is mentioned?

[bmwfnatic]

sorry to resurrect an old thread, but just want to check with you guys before making any changes. the shop that did the conversion for the previous owner did not install the GPS 23142229113. the m3cutters link mentions modifying a couple sections of the .bin file which is no issue, but mine looks quite different.

for instance, the first step is to modify 0x4028 and OP says it should be 01 changing to 02, but mine is ff. In fact, mine is ff from 3fc0 to 40f0 with only a couple bits being something else...



2nd part, it says to change 0x35ac from 0032 to ffff

here is mine: showing 2e29


are these bits still okay to modify per the m3cutters instructions even though they are represented differently than what is mentioned?

Those offsets mentioned are for a non-HP DME, and even then there are differences between versions.

Use TunerPro, load the appropriate XDF for your binary version and then look for K_S_GANG_LL_ED and K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL and it'll give you the correct offsets to edit in your hex editor or directly inside TunerPro of course.

[ugaexploder]

Those offsets mentioned are for a non-HP DME, and even then there are differences between versions.

Use TunerPro, load the appropriate XDF for your binary version and then look for K_S_GANG_LL_ED and K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL and it'll give you the correct offsets to edit in your hex editor or directly inside TunerPro of course.

really appreciate the advice, will take a look at TunerPro now

[sapote]

2nd part, it says to change 0x35ac from 0032 to ffff

here is mine: showing 2e29

I read it as 4B32, not 2E29.

[ugaexploder]

I read it as 4B32, not 2E29.

right, was referring to the m3cutters post where they mention 0032 which is in 0x35ae and 0x35af. i think there may be a mistake in the m3cutter instruction where they mention 0x35ac.

[Leez]

Hey guys

Resurrecting this thread but with twist. I have the same code after doing the smg to manual swap. Car was coded by martyn from ecuworx. Not sure if the code was supposed to be present. Car starts and runs well with the exception of throttle response . When stationary and if I tap the throttle, the car responds immediately and the rev bouces up as it should. If I start to move even at a snail like pace , the throttle response changes. Its as if its delayed/ laggy. Sometimes on a downshift i blip the throttle and the throttle response is poor. Also when taking off from a stop, the response is normal/quick and when the car just starts to move the respose changes and becomes slow.I have no idea what the issue is with regards to the throttle response. I have no other codes in the dme

[ejendow]

Hey guys

Resurrecting this thread but with twist. I have the same code after doing the smg to manual swap. Car was coded by martyn from ecuworx. Not sure if the code was supposed to be present. Car starts and runs well with the exception of throttle response . When stationary and it I tap the throttle, the car response immediately and the rev bouces up as it should. If I start to move even at a snail like pace , the throttle response changes. Its as if its delayed/ laggy. Sometimes on a downshift i blip the throttle and I have no idea what the issue is with regards to the throttle response. I have no other codes in the dme

I have this same issue! Hoping someone knows what might help this.

[Leez]

terra?

[bmwautojon]

Not sure if this will help anyone but I have have been chasing a strange intermittent idle fault and stalling fault on my E46 M3.

The car would drive normally and displayed no faults on INPA but at idle with the AC off the engine speed would be really low and erratic unless the clutch was engaged and would intermittently stall. The idle speed would also go really high or low when turning the AC on and off. Another symptom was the car stalling if rolling to a stop with the car out off gear.

I found lots of threads online suggesting clutch switches, air leaks, fuel filter and lots of other suggestions but none had a final fix.

I managed to fix the fault yesterday with the help of the binary modification tool ECUworx. The previous owner of the car had a manual conversion carried out by a well known BMW Specialist for around £3500 (I still have the invoice), but the specialist had coded the vehicle incorrectly by not coding out the Gear Position Sensor and Clutch switch configuration.

Once I had made the correct changes by removing the GPS sensor requirement the car now idles perfectly and the needle hardly moved when turning the AC on or off.

I hope this information helps other owners in the future.

[ugaexploder]

I think what happens is that many shops do the physical conversion properly, but may leave out some steps such as coding or using the proper clutch switch. In some cases, whoever did the conversion will not install a gear identification switch...which will also dictate how you wire to DME. Another issue is that most of this information is scattered because not every situation is the same...

The following are common symptoms of improperly-done conversion cars: cruise control, side view mirror tilt, and PDC not working. Other intermittent issues include stalling when coming to a stop, or rough idle and also stalling when the A/C is on.



First thing I would recommend is a partial read on the DME and pull the .bin file. This can help you identify what type of ECU you have as well. The easy way to ensure if the proper changes were made to the .bin file is using tunerpro which is free, or you can fiddle around with a hex editor. You need to order K+DCAN cable WITH THE SWITCH (pin 7 and 8 jumpered). I would make a copy of the .bin file to work off, and save the initial one somewhere safe never to be modified.

Tip: When in ignition position 2, have your car connected to a 10A trickle charger, and have your laptop on full battery on charger as well. Turn off HVAC and lights, or any other thing that is drawing current.




Explanation of improper clutch switch that can be used to pin out to brake switch and DME PIN20

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...hread.1301251/

Explanation in how to identify/change things using hex editor

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...tions.1298214/

Installing software tools

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...tools.1274003/

Video showing how to make changes to .bin file using tunerpro instead of hex editor (easier method)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqrS..._channel=R3Z3N




Fortunately for me, the shop that was employed to do the job for PO did a lot of things right. They wired things properly from the clutch switch to the brake switch, EWS, and DME (PIN20). The problem was the clutch switch they installed didn't even have a part number on it.

Also, I'm still not 100% sure but there is still some arguments made that only the brown clutch switch ending in 700 will work. However, I've read in the thread below that the black 700 switches work fine which is what I ordered. The new ones you can buy from FCP euro are black and end in 700. There was a point in time when people were ordering from FCP euro and others where it was made equivalent to a different/wrong part number. The word is that this has all been fixed now, so the new proper clutch switches ending in 700 are black.... 61319122700

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...22700.1313129/




**SIDE NOTE**

If a Gear Identification Switch (23-14-2-229-113) was installed (should be dangling near the guibo area), then you will need to wire things a little differently. One was not installed on my car.

This video shows a good job of what you need to do if you had a gear selector switch installed at time of conversion. It's not a big deal if you didn't have one installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7k5p...STATTE-BMWONLY

Using the resources above, you should be able to understand how to verify if SMG has been coded out, your clutch switch is wired properly, and you can also figure out how to make your side view tilt work as well. Remember, just changing the clutch switch alone does not solve all your problems. Modifying bin file, and coding out SMG option is the key.

[nextlvel]

I think what happens is that many shops do the physical conversion properly, but may leave out some steps such as coding or using the proper clutch switch. In some cases, whoever did the conversion will not install a gear identification switch...which will also dictate how you wire to DME. Another issue is that most of this information is scattered because not every situation is the same...

The following are common symptoms of improperly-done conversion cars: cruise control, side view mirror tilt, and PDC not working. Other intermittent issues include stalling when coming to a stop, or rough idle and also stalling when the A/C is on.



First thing I would recommend is a partial read on the DME and pull the .bin file. This can help you identify what type of ECU you have as well. The easy way to ensure if the proper changes were made to the .bin file is using tunerpro which is free, or you can fiddle around with a hex editor. You need to order K+DCAN cable WITH THE SWITCH (pin 7 and 8 jumpered). I would make a copy of the .bin file to work off, and save the initial one somewhere safe never to be modified.

Tip: When in ignition position 2, have your car connected to a 10A trickle charger, and have your laptop on full battery on charger as well. Turn off HVAC and lights, or any other thing that is drawing current.




Explanation of improper clutch switch that can be used to pin out to brake switch and DME PIN20

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...hread.1301251/

Explanation in how to identify/change things using hex editor

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...tions.1298214/

Installing software tools

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...tools.1274003/

Video showing how to make changes to .bin file using tunerpro instead of hex editor (easier method)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqrS..._channel=R3Z3N




Fortunately for me, the shop that was employed to do the job for PO did a lot of things right. They wired things properly from the clutch switch to the brake switch, EWS, and DME (PIN20). The problem was the clutch switch they installed didn't even have a part number on it.

Also, I'm still not 100% sure but there is still some arguments made that only the brown clutch switch ending in 700 will work. However, I've read in the thread below that the black 700 switches work fine which is what I ordered. The new ones you can buy from FCP euro are black and end in 700. There was a point in time when people were ordering from FCP euro and others where it was made equivalent to a different/wrong part number. The word is that this has all been fixed now, so the new proper clutch switches ending in 700 are black.... 61319122700

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...22700.1313129/




**SIDE NOTE**

If a Gear Identification Switch (23-14-2-229-113) was installed (should be dangling near the guibo area), then you will need to wire things a little differently. One was not installed on my car.

This video shows a good job of what you need to do if you had a gear selector switch installed at time of conversion. It's not a big deal if you didn't have one installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7k5p...STATTE-BMWONLY

Using the resources above, you should be able to understand how to verify if SMG has been coded out, your clutch switch is wired properly, and you can also figure out how to make your side view tilt work as well. Remember, just changing the clutch switch alone does not solve all your problems. Modifying bin file, and coding out SMG option is the key.

Can confirm this was my exact situation and symptoms. Thank you again for your help [mention]ugaexploder [/mention] !

[ugaexploder]

Can confirm this was my exact situation and symptoms. Thank you again for your help [mention]ugaexploder [/mention] !

was a good day, glad we figured it out. the stalling thing was driving me nuts.