Hi all,
I'm 90% done with my CSL trunk install, so I thought I'd write up a DIY with some installation tips. Since they became available again, the CSL trunk is a popular mod on E46 M3s. However, the information out there currently is somewhat vague on what you actually need. Hopefully this clears things up.
Sourcing a CSL trunk is a bit of a challenge in itself. For Americans, the main vendors are ECS Tuning and Schmiedmann. I believe US BMW dealers are now prohibited from ordering CSL trunks.
Once you have it, bring the trunk to a trusted paint shop. I got mine painted at Maaco in Springfield, VA. That particular Maaco is owned by a BMW enthusiast, and has a great reputation in the local BMW community. They painted my trunk with PPG paint for a great price. I brought my fuel door in with the trunk and had them paint match it.
Installation Process
To install the trunk, start by removing the factory tool kit that is held in by two screws. These screws are covered in felt and somewhat hidden. Twist the connector at the top sideways to get it free.
Then, pop off all the plastic rivets holding the trunk liner on with a trim tool.
Once you have the liner off and are looking at the inside of the trunk, remove the plastic covers on top of the trunk latch, and lock cylinder. The latch cover just snaps in, while the lock cylinder cover has a few bolts holding it on.
Disconnect all the electrical connectors
Once the harness is completely free of the trunk, disconnect the top of both trunk struts with a small flathead screwdriver. Carefully set these down on the outer taillights, be careful not to let them swing around and damage the paint on the rear quarter.
Remove both inner tail lights by pulling the tab towards you. You'll hear a snap, and the back of the lamp (black piece) will become free. The exterior housing (red translucent piece) is held in place by 1 10mm nut.
Unbolt the trunk latch, and disconnect the white connector on the back. These can be undone by putting a small screwdriver and popping the top off. (Picture is of a different location, but same idea)
At this point, there should be nothing connecting the trunk and car, except for the 4 bolts holding the trunk on. Grab 2 friends and have them each hold one side of the trunk. Make sure they each put one hand where the sharp corner of the trunk is. You do not want this part falling and denting your rear quarter. Watch everybody's fingers and make sure they do not get caught in the hinge. Not a bad idea to grab some blankets and put them over your rear window and rear quarters. Then, unbolt the four torx bolts holding the trunk on, and remove the original trunk.
Observe the wear marks in the paint on the hinges, and install the CSL trunk by lining the bolts up to their original location using these marks. That will get you about 90% of the way there in terms of alignment. I adjusted mine slightly afterward to get it perfectly centered. Reinstall both trunk struts to hold the trunk up.
Here comes the hardest part- snaking the wiring harness through your new trunk. I used some grass trimmer line, and taped the end of the harness to the trimmer line. Any sort of semi-rigid material would work. Then, I taped all the connectors to the harness with masking tape to make it as streamlined as possible. You roughly want to keep the wiring harness in the area enclosed by the rectangle in the picture, where the trunk is thickest. It is easiest to pull the harness straight up, do not go at any sort of angle. Drop the trimmer line down from the top, tape it to the harness, and pull it up. Once the end of the harness comes through the top, gently pull it through. If it gets caught, back it out from the bottom and try again.
The felt tape covering my wiring was a sticky mess, so I redid all the tape with new OE fabric wiring tape.
I reinstalled the key cylinder first, using a new gasket. For those using a CSL trunk liner, remove the emergency trunk latch that is attached to the key cylinder. This emergency latch is only found on US-spec M3s, so the CSL liner does not have an opening for it. The CSL trunk liner is optional, but you will be left with an opening for the tool kit. You can drill holes in the CSL trunk lid to mount the tool kit if you would like.
CSL trunk liner vs stock
Reinstall both tail lights, and the trunk latch. Reconnect the wires to these items, and try closing the trunk. If it doesn't latch properly unless you slam it, you may need to adjust the trunk latch on the car. Undo these two bolts and move the latch up/down.
To install license plate lights, you have two options- incandescent or LED plate lights. You will need to make a wiring harness for either option.
For incandescent, you will need
Wiring diagram made by Smitsky089 for LED lamps.
My experimental wiring harness for Incandescent lamps. It is a mess because I'm no good with electrical stuff. I made both ends too short to start out, and may redo it later for a cleaner install. You will want one end to be longer than the other due to the orientation of the plate lamps.
I also needed to dremel the tabs on the plate lamps a bit to get them to sit properly.
Install the grommets for the trunk roundel and pop in the blind rivets for the plate bracket. I tore one, and am waiting for a replacement to come in. Do not order the OE screws for the plate bracket (51181813015). They are too short. I will have to run to the hardware store to finish off my install with longer bolts. The OE ones are M5x0.8x20 mm. I forgot exactly which ones I used to finish the install off but buy ones that are longer than 20 mm.
Finished product
I'm 90% done with my CSL trunk install, so I thought I'd write up a DIY with some installation tips. Since they became available again, the CSL trunk is a popular mod on E46 M3s. However, the information out there currently is somewhat vague on what you actually need. Hopefully this clears things up.
Sourcing a CSL trunk is a bit of a challenge in itself. For Americans, the main vendors are ECS Tuning and Schmiedmann. I believe US BMW dealers are now prohibited from ordering CSL trunks.
Once you have it, bring the trunk to a trusted paint shop. I got mine painted at Maaco in Springfield, VA. That particular Maaco is owned by a BMW enthusiast, and has a great reputation in the local BMW community. They painted my trunk with PPG paint for a great price. I brought my fuel door in with the trunk and had them paint match it.
Installation Process
To install the trunk, start by removing the factory tool kit that is held in by two screws. These screws are covered in felt and somewhat hidden. Twist the connector at the top sideways to get it free.
Then, pop off all the plastic rivets holding the trunk liner on with a trim tool.
Once you have the liner off and are looking at the inside of the trunk, remove the plastic covers on top of the trunk latch, and lock cylinder. The latch cover just snaps in, while the lock cylinder cover has a few bolts holding it on.
Disconnect all the electrical connectors
- Both tail lamps
- License plate lamp
- Trunk latch
- Lock cylinder
Once the harness is completely free of the trunk, disconnect the top of both trunk struts with a small flathead screwdriver. Carefully set these down on the outer taillights, be careful not to let them swing around and damage the paint on the rear quarter.
Remove both inner tail lights by pulling the tab towards you. You'll hear a snap, and the back of the lamp (black piece) will become free. The exterior housing (red translucent piece) is held in place by 1 10mm nut.
Unbolt the trunk latch, and disconnect the white connector on the back. These can be undone by putting a small screwdriver and popping the top off. (Picture is of a different location, but same idea)
At this point, there should be nothing connecting the trunk and car, except for the 4 bolts holding the trunk on. Grab 2 friends and have them each hold one side of the trunk. Make sure they each put one hand where the sharp corner of the trunk is. You do not want this part falling and denting your rear quarter. Watch everybody's fingers and make sure they do not get caught in the hinge. Not a bad idea to grab some blankets and put them over your rear window and rear quarters. Then, unbolt the four torx bolts holding the trunk on, and remove the original trunk.
Observe the wear marks in the paint on the hinges, and install the CSL trunk by lining the bolts up to their original location using these marks. That will get you about 90% of the way there in terms of alignment. I adjusted mine slightly afterward to get it perfectly centered. Reinstall both trunk struts to hold the trunk up.
Here comes the hardest part- snaking the wiring harness through your new trunk. I used some grass trimmer line, and taped the end of the harness to the trimmer line. Any sort of semi-rigid material would work. Then, I taped all the connectors to the harness with masking tape to make it as streamlined as possible. You roughly want to keep the wiring harness in the area enclosed by the rectangle in the picture, where the trunk is thickest. It is easiest to pull the harness straight up, do not go at any sort of angle. Drop the trimmer line down from the top, tape it to the harness, and pull it up. Once the end of the harness comes through the top, gently pull it through. If it gets caught, back it out from the bottom and try again.
The felt tape covering my wiring was a sticky mess, so I redid all the tape with new OE fabric wiring tape.
I reinstalled the key cylinder first, using a new gasket. For those using a CSL trunk liner, remove the emergency trunk latch that is attached to the key cylinder. This emergency latch is only found on US-spec M3s, so the CSL liner does not have an opening for it. The CSL trunk liner is optional, but you will be left with an opening for the tool kit. You can drill holes in the CSL trunk lid to mount the tool kit if you would like.
CSL trunk liner vs stock
Reinstall both tail lights, and the trunk latch. Reconnect the wires to these items, and try closing the trunk. If it doesn't latch properly unless you slam it, you may need to adjust the trunk latch on the car. Undo these two bolts and move the latch up/down.
To install license plate lights, you have two options- incandescent or LED plate lights. You will need to make a wiring harness for either option.
For incandescent, you will need
- Qty 2 - 61131378149 - Electrical Connector
- Qty 4 - 61130007449 - Snap-in Receptacle
- Qty 2 - 61130006664 - Pin Contact w/Wire Lead
- Qty 1 - 61136931929 - Plug Housing
- Qty 2 - 63267165646 - CSL License Plate Lamp
- Heat Shrink Tubing
- Solder
- Qty 2 - 61132360043 - Socket Housing Repair Kit
- Qty 4 - 61130005197 - Plug Housing with Lead
- Qty 2 - 61130006664 - Pin Contact w/Wire Lead
- Qty 1 - 61136931929 - Plug Housing
- Qty 2 - 63267193293 - LED License Plate Lamp
- Heat Shrink Tubing
- Solder
Wiring diagram made by Smitsky089 for LED lamps.
My experimental wiring harness for Incandescent lamps. It is a mess because I'm no good with electrical stuff. I made both ends too short to start out, and may redo it later for a cleaner install. You will want one end to be longer than the other due to the orientation of the plate lamps.
I also needed to dremel the tabs on the plate lamps a bit to get them to sit properly.
Install the grommets for the trunk roundel and pop in the blind rivets for the plate bracket. I tore one, and am waiting for a replacement to come in. Do not order the OE screws for the plate bracket (51181813015). They are too short. I will have to run to the hardware store to finish off my install with longer bolts. The OE ones are M5x0.8x20 mm. I forgot exactly which ones I used to finish the install off but buy ones that are longer than 20 mm.
Finished product
Attached Files
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