What stud conversion is every one running

[Tones]

Ecs?
Turner?
Apex?
Psdesign titanium?


What's best in everyone opinion

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[Tbonem3]

Apex

Look at FCPeuro, I think they have a high quality set now which is great so you can replace them periodically. Avoid ECS (turner).

[Amalgam]

I've been using the Vorshlag kit and I have not had any issues over the past few years.

[eacmen]

Please avoid ECS/Turner. I bought a kit from them once and the studs were mismatched, definitely made by a different process/foundry. Called them up and they said it was normal. Almost failed tech because they thought I was replacing studs one at a time as they failed.

Street driven car I would stay with the bolts, there is really no reason to go with studs.

Our car is dedicated track, went with Bimmerworld Premium Race Stud Kit. Pricey but worth it for peace of mind. MSI is also a popular choice with the track junkies.

Lots of people run the Apex studs, havent heard of any issues with them.

Recognize that any stud kit with dry lube will have a different torque spec than factory. Once you use the lug nuts several times that dry lube starts to wear off. Recommend application of a small amount of anti seize to the *seat* of the lug nut (the tapered end that sits in the wheel) to account for that dry lube being wore down.

Check out this thread, some good info in there: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...ng-wheel-studs

[Tones]

Please avoid ECS/Turner. I bought a kit from them once and the studs were mismatched, definitely made by a different process/foundry. Called them up and they said it was normal. Almost failed tech because they thought I was replacing studs one at a time as they failed.

Street driven car I would stay with the bolts, there is really no reason to go with studs.

Our car is dedicated track, went with Bimmerworld Premium Race Stud Kit. Pricey but worth it for peace of mind. MSI is also a popular choice with the track junkies.

Lots of people run the Apex studs, havent heard of any issues with them.

Recognize that any stud kit with dry lube will have a different torque spec than factory. Once you use the lug nuts several times that dry lube starts to wear off. Recommend application of a small amount of anti seize to the *seat* of the lug nut (the tapered end that sits in the wheel) to account for that dry lube being wore down.

Check out this thread, some good info in there: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/s...ng-wheel-studs

Thanks. I searched to make sure I'm not duplicate posting but nothing came up.


I just don't really like the bolts and I'm taking my wheels off quite a bit. I've also noticed that the bolts seem to change tq the more they get taken off and on.

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[liam821]

I did a whole bunch of research back when m3f was around and ended up with Motorsports Hardware. https://motorsporthardware.com/ They're well priced high-quality studs. I run them on my car and have been really happy.

I also think bimmerworld is another excellent option. Speed Acadamy did part of a video talking about the different types of studs they offer which you can watch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCZSB1MRbVk

[M3_CJ]

I'm using Apex stud kit for 1.5 years now (street driven). No issues so far.

Have also bought Titec wheel locks that I highly recommend to AVOID. The teeth looked like they would chip away after a few uses. Took them off after a few months. Doesn't look like Apex sells them anymore, but looks like ECS Tuning still sells it.

[eacmen]

Also give this topic a read through: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ud-kit-install

I highly recommend getting an M12x1.5 tap to clean out the threads in your hubs before installing studs. I tried using a thread chaser and it simply did not clean out the threads enough to be able to thread the studs in by hand.

[Estoril]

Studs for what use?

Street = OE bolts.

Reminder: Studs are wear items requiring regular replacement.

[timmo]

FWIW I have ECS Tuning wheel studs, about 20,000 km on the street, 8 autox, and 2 track days with no issues. But I bought those before FCP started carrying the Motorsport Hardware studs, and will be adding those to my next FCP order to replace the ones from ECS

[dilmorecg]

Dont have them on my e46 yet but I had Motorsport Hardware ones on my 135i.

[duracellttu]

I opted to use the Core4 Motorsports bolt through MSI studs. I was in the process of replacing my wheel bearings anyways and sent them my new front and rear hubs. This bolt-through design eliminates the failure point in the standard design and these same studs are used in NASCAR.

On a side note, what is is the highest quality stud nut on the market?

[Feffman]

Good Day All:

For those of you removing and installing 12mm X 1.5 wheel studs, here's a couple of tools you many want to consider. They also come in other sizes.

Snap On Stud Remover: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215R

Snap On Stud Installer: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215N


I like the fact the stud installer gives you the option to torque in the studs to specs. Pretty easy to use per Snap On's web site video.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/productvide...d%20MSKM10.mp4

Hope this helps.

Feff

[S14]

Studs for what use?

Street = OE bolts.

Reminder: Studs are wear items requiring regular replacement.

Are Studs wear items, but stock wheel bolts are not? For the purpose of discussion... what is the difference?

I've run a few different sets of studs on various cars and have heard the "replace studs periodically" mantra on the forums, so this time I went with motorsport hardware studs/nuts purchased through FCP Euro to capitalize on their warranty. The studs feel like high quality, but the nuts felt better than previous hardware I've used. I'm looking forward to seeing how these hold up over extended use.

[Estoril]

Are Studs wear items, but stock wheel bolts are not? For the purpose of discussion... what is the difference?

I've run a few different sets of studs on various cars and have heard the "replace studs periodically" mantra on the forums, so this time I went with motorsport hardware studs/nuts purchased through FCP Euro to capitalize on their warranty. The studs feel like high quality, but the nuts felt better than previous hardware I've used. I'm looking forward to seeing how these hold up over extended use.

There is a very good stud failure discussion here: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1296624 It is track-specific with few lessons to be drawn for street.

FWIW - these are Bimmerworld studs that failed on the rear of an M4 last year at Summit Point:



If you look closely you will see corrosion crept in on most of the studs through apparent hairline cracks (thats rust - not dirt). The belief is that those cracks were caused by using an impact wrench for tire and brake work - torquing repeatedly to unknown values. (I don't use an impact wrench on my stud nuts without a torque stick).