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Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied


    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.
    It's a few mm, but it's enough to require a crowbar to hold it in a position that brings the rail away from tranny tunnel to fit the bolt in. Just holding crowbar while starting the bolt is not enough, there is enough tension in the entire assembly that I can feel the threads scrubbing if I screw it in without holding the rail with a crowbar the entire time. Definitely not in a state where I am comfortable taking the seat out several times a month...I guess bolts are replaceable, at least I haven't converted rears to studs yet (and prob won't with this fitment).

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by timmo View Post



    That's insane how far yours is off. Adding another data point, mine are just like Heinz - use fingers to pry and then start the bolt. If I have to take the seat out I'll try to "relax" the joints by sliding the seat forward/back with things loose as mentioned and see if that gets it to line up fully
    I ended up sloting the holes as far as I could without interfering with the hardware and the rails still taper but only about half as much now, so I suppose that'll have to do.

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  • timmo
    replied


    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    I have the spacers on outside which makes the fitment closer, but still terrible. Not only is my inboard bracket sticking up at an ~15° but it doesn't sit parallel to the rail causing the rails to taper toward the front. Not happy at all with this stuff especially for the price.
    I will say the GT3 install went fine, but this is something else entirely.
    That's insane how far yours is off. Adding another data point, mine are just like Heinz - use fingers to pry and then start the bolt. If I have to take the seat out I'll try to "relax" the joints by sliding the seat forward/back with things loose as mentioned and see if that gets it to line up fully

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Which side of the bracket did you place the black spacer washers (the ones that go on the stud with the 10mm nut) on? My seat rails were pretty far off from the bolt holes, then I swapped the washers over to the other side and now they're only slightly far off. Still had to pry a bit to get the bolts in, but I was able to just use my fingers for that.

    Also, like repoman89, I had to install the rails with everything loose and then tighten all bolts/nuts without removing the rails from the car.
    I have the spacers on outside which makes the fitment closer, but still terrible. Not only is my inboard bracket sticking up at an ~15° but it doesn't sit parallel to the rail causing the rails to taper toward the front. Not happy at all with this stuff especially for the price.
    I will say the GT3 install went fine, but this is something else entirely.
    Last edited by Cubieman; 01-18-2023, 09:28 AM.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

    My theory is that the inboard bracket (at least mine) sit up at an angle, once installed to seat this pushes the rails out at an angle causing the fitment issue, interesting the front is fine and the back isn't.

    I'm about to take those fucking brackets, vise them up and bend them so they don't kick out so much.

    Sure wish I had metal fab equipment/skills right about now.
    Which side of the bracket did you place the black spacer washers (the ones that go on the stud with the 10mm nut) on? My seat rails were pretty far off from the bolt holes, then I swapped the washers over to the other side and now they're only slightly far off. Still had to pry a bit to get the bolts in, but I was able to just use my fingers for that.

    Also, like repoman89, I had to install the rails with everything loose and then tighten all bolts/nuts without removing the rails from the car.

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  • repoman89
    replied
    My technique for reinstalling the seats is to loosen the outside two bracket to seat bolts enough so that the rails can line up easily. Then torque them to the floor and retighten the seat bolts after.

    I’ve had my brackets for a few years now so it’s not a recent thing, quality has been shit for a while. Every BK part I’ve bought (three now) has either required a grinder or a machinist. Wish there was any competition at all.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post



    My driver side is on power slider and I had to also crowbar it to get the rear bolts into the floor...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

    My theory is that the inboard bracket (at least mine) sit up at an angle, once installed to seat this pushes the rails out at an angle causing the fitment issue, interesting the front is fine and the back isn't.

    I'm about to take those fucking brackets, vise them up and bend them so they don't kick out so much.

    Sure wish I had metal fab equipment/skills right about now.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied


    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    I ordered some E30 switchs, going to try the power sliders to see if fitment is any better..what a bummer.
    My driver side is on power slider and I had to also crowbar it to get the rear bolts into the floor...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    I am also having some pretty bad fitment issues on manual sliders, I had to cut away part of the slider to even get the bracket on the inboard rail.

    Once installed I can get the front studs through the slider holes but the rears are way off, the distance between the mounting points on the rear is 1/2" wider than the fronts, same issue as mrgizmo04is having.

    I can persuade the bolts into place but it's seems like way to much force/tension to have just built up on the seats all the time, don't want to crack them etc.

    I ordered some E30 switchs, going to try the power sliders to see if fitment is any better..what a bummer.

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  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    Where was your interference at with the power sliders?

    Yea, it still would interfere, the bracket at an angle is the inboard side so it doesn't require the spacer according to the instructions.

    Half tempted to try and see how they fit on my factory power sliders, but I went to a lot of work to get/clean/paint these manual sliders, I just hope they can send me something that works.

    Don't want to have to modify the bracket or the rails either, shouldn't have to, feels like I bought a chinese ebay kit which is an unfortunate thing to say about BK stuff.
    Pics below, not great but it interferes with the crossover bracket that holds the "driveshaft" for the gears on the non motor side seat rail.

    The spacer is in the 2nd pic. Spacer is at the front of the seat rails (closer to the front of the car).

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

    If you put a 1/4" spacer there, even just to mock it up, would the BK mount interfere with that spring detent box? I'm using power sliders but they interfered with the outboard seat rails without that spacer. Or was it inboard? Regardless, there was interference without the spacer.
    Where was your interference at with the power sliders?

    Yea, it still would interfere, the bracket at an angle is the inboard side so it doesn't require the spacer according to the instructions.

    Half tempted to try and see how they fit on my factory power sliders, but I went to a lot of work to get/clean/paint these manual sliders, I just hope they can send me something that works.

    Don't want to have to modify the bracket or the rails either, shouldn't have to, feels like I bought a chinese ebay kit which is an unfortunate thing to say about BK stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    Thanks, may do washers to mock it up, inboard the brackets being at an angle really isn't great, shouldn't have to grind material from the rails and/or brackets to make that work.

    Calling BK today in regards to all of this.
    If you put a 1/4" spacer there, even just to mock it up, would the BK mount interfere with that spring detent box? I'm using power sliders but they interfered with the outboard seat rails without that spacer. Or was it inboard? Regardless, there was interference without the spacer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

    I have these with my kit. I'll try to get over to the car and measure them this week. I want to say they are about 1/4" thick, maybe 3/8". Probably closer to 0.25".

    You could get some spacers from a hardware store and roll with them temporarily. It's literally just a painted/powder coated chunk of flat steel - they aren't tapered or otherwise special in any way.
    Thanks, may do washers to mock it up, inboard the brackets being at an angle really isn't great, shouldn't have to grind material from the rails and/or brackets to make that work.

    Calling BK today in regards to all of this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    Does anybody happen to have a spare set of the black spacers for the outboard rail that goes between the rail/bracket?

    My kit didn't come with them, have emailed and will call ECS about this as I can't proceed without them.

    Click image for larger version

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    I have these with my kit. I'll try to get over to the car and measure them this week. I want to say they are about 1/4" thick, maybe 3/8". Probably closer to 0.25".

    You could get some spacers from a hardware store and roll with them temporarily. It's literally just a painted/powder coated chunk of flat steel - they aren't tapered or otherwise special in any way.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Man, seems like quality has gotten worse. Sad.

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