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Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Here is a rough top view with cushion removed. It is close to vertical, you can see the bar there.

    It is not in the "perfect" 0-20 deg range, but it is close to 0. It does somewhat rely on the seat's front of the opening to bring it in closer to you, and to quote the instructions to enable "tangential touching of the chest and groin". I also think that mounting requirement of 0-20 deg back for 6pt is for preventing submarining, but since quick fits are "street" versions and have ASM built in, it is a bit less of a concern.

    I don't think mounting the subbar further back will work unless you notch the mounting holes (also not sure of interference because seat bottom really curves down for your butt and seat cushion). There are 2x holes on the subbar per side and they attach on the same mounting location where the mount attaches to the slider.

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    Last edited by mrgizmo04; 11-30-2022, 08:21 AM.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    mrgizmo04 or Obioban (or anyone running sub straps with Nogaros and Brey Krause mounts), does the sub strap go forward or backward from vertical between the latch and seat base? Still have a good amount to learn when it comes to safety restraints, so I've been reading up on that and stumbled upon this install guide from Schroth (attached to post as well in case link goes dead): https://www.schrothracing.com/doc-sh...-2_2019-04.pdf

    Page 10 shows that for 6 point harnesses, the sub straps should be routed at ~20° back (towards you) from vertical. 5 point sub straps should be at ~20° forward from the plane of your torso. Sub strap addition for the quick fits essentially makes those a 6 point harness, so the sub straps should be going backward.

    The picture that mrgizmo04 posted earlier shows the sub strap going forward between the seat and the sub bar, so I'm not too sure what to make of that. Maybe the important angle is between your body and the seat opening? Maybe I can mount the bar further back to satisfy Schroth's instructions? Or maybe I'm overthinking this and it isn't something I should be concerned about. Thoughts?
    Attached Files

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied


    Originally posted by liam821 View Post
    My car also has a full cage so you really need all the other stuff, it would suck to get into an accident and get thrown out of your seat into the cage.
    Sounds like you also need the arm tethers and the whole 9 yards.

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  • liam821
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    Safety always first. Fun not a distant second. Not the other way around.

    And if some of you guys run any harnesses on track, PLEASE invest in a HANS, your neck will thank you (even without harnesses on track I ran the Simpson Hybrid which can be used with a 3pt or a regular harness). You don't need $1k+ CF versions, plenty can be had for a few hundred bucks.

    Also on subject of safety, I'm assuming I don't have to tell you to make sure those shoulder harness holes better be high enough for your torso so you don't get spinal compression. No, Pole Positions or whatever nice looking fill in the blank seat is not for everyone. Nogaros suit tall people, so no problems there.

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    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    I need to get a hans, have a "Necksgen" currently which is better than nothing. The thing I like about the necksgen is it offers greater mobility, but likely at the loss of some safety.

    https://competitionmotorsport.com/pr...AaAk5iEALw_wcB
    I use a Hans, although I don't think it's required for my Time Attack class, I feel a lot better in it. And let's face it, you look like a badass in a racing suit, helmet with a mirror face shield, and a Hans. lol

    I have the Hans III https://www.hansdevice.com/products/hans-iii which I find very comfortable. You really should use a Hans-compatible seat and 6-point harness as well which I have. My seat is a Cobra Evolution, very comfortable. My car also has a full cage so you really need all the other stuff, it would suck to get into an accident and get thrown out of your seat into the cage.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    I need to get a hans, have a "Necksgen" currently which is better than nothing. The thing I like about the necksgen is it offers greater mobility, but likely at the loss of some safety.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Safety always first. Fun not a distant second. Not the other way around.

    And if some of you guys run any harnesses on track, PLEASE invest in a HANS, your neck will thank you (even without harnesses on track I ran the Simpson Hybrid which can be used with a 3pt or a regular harness). You don't need $1k+ CF versions, plenty can be had for a few hundred bucks.

    Also on subject of safety, I'm assuming I don't have to tell you to make sure those shoulder harness holes better be high enough for your torso so you don't get spinal compression. No, Pole Positions or whatever nice looking fill in the blank seat is not for everyone. Nogaros suit tall people, so no problems there.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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  • Pklauser
    replied
    Good insights mrgizmo04 I appreciate it! Looks like I've got some pondering to do then...I'm also curious if manual sliders would get you there.

    I too am wondering when I'll just shut up and get the tire trailer, tbh it might be easier then stuffing things in the trunk, since the toolbox could just stay mounted to it. Then again, additional equipment almost never results in an actually simpler experience.

    Now the roof idea is new to me...I think I'm not against lifting the wheels up there, but yea driving like that seems wonky. Not sure what the weight limits are up there either.

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  • zivagolee
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    You need something like this:

    Click image for larger version

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    I've done this with a basket before and I didn't like driving a long distance to the track with all that weight up there.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    You need something like this:

    Click image for larger version

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    Ha, that was considered, but putting up 4x 40 lbs wheels at the end of the track day, and then when I get back to my garage tired, remembering that they are there before I drive in...plus one of my mounting holes for the roof bar is stripped, so I didn't want to deal with it.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    It might get old unbolting the seat before going to track to load tires in, bolt it back in for the drive, unbolt again to remove tires at track, bolt back in for passenger, then reverse at end of day to get tires back home. But I guess I decided on this route for now, before fully committing to doing hitch/small tire trailer combo.
    You need something like this:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Tire rack.jpg
Views:	588
Size:	117.9 KB
ID:	194177

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Sorry ^ that was probably the shortest reply I've ever posted .

    For the track gang and tire fitting into the rear seats...

    So to mount the seat, the seat itself has 1 hole per corner, while the mount has 2 per corner (one above the other). So you can mount the seat in 4 positions - highest where you use the two top holes on the front and rear of the mount, lowest where you use both bottom holes on the front and rear of the mount, very upright/forward leaning where you use lower hole on front of the mount and higher hole on rear of the mount, and the more reclined/backward leaning where you use the top hole on front of the mount and bottom hole on rear of the mount.

    I mounted my seat in the more reclined position - top hole in front and bottom hole on rear of the mount. With power slider I felt I had to use the higher hole in front to make room for the motors, plus with the substrap bar, you can see in picture in one of the previous posts above, the hump in the floor just starts interfering with the substrap bar "handle" using higher hole in front (it would interfere more and stop the seat further back if I used the lower hole). With the seat as far forward as it will go and rear side cards out and the bpillar cover out I was not able to fit 265 tires between the seat and the bpillar.

    I can try mounting the seat in the highest position (basically just moving the rear to the top hole on the rear of the mount) and see if that helps. Otherwise, as Ian mentioned before, it's just 4 bolts to remove the slider from the floor and 1 plug.

    It might get old unbolting the seat before going to track to load tires in, bolt it back in for the drive, unbolt again to remove tires at track, bolt back in for passenger, then reverse at end of day to get tires back home. But I guess I decided on this route for now, before fully committing to doing hitch/small tire trailer combo.

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  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by Pklauser View Post
    I see you're framing a lot of this with street use, do you apply your same concerns to track use of the Quick Fits?
    I didn’t like mine and wouldn’t recommend bc they’d ride up without a sub strap. Wouldn’t be a good time if you crash at 100+ MPH

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by Pklauser View Post
    I see you're framing a lot of this with street use, do you apply your same concerns to track use of the Quick Fits?
    Most definitely.

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  • Pklauser
    replied
    I see you're framing a lot of this with street use, do you apply your same concerns to track use of the Quick Fits?

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied


    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Plus, I find that wearing a harness correctly (i.e. tightly across the lap and shoulder belts tight enough for the HANS) is extremely uncomfortable
    And you feel like a T-Rex because you can't reach anything without unbuckling . Sometimes even closing the door after buckling in first requires unbuckling again to reach the handle.

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