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Crank but no fire first key turn, starts right up second key turn?
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Are you just putting the key in and turning it straight to start? An old fuel pump will take longer to prime. Try letting the beeps stop before you attempt to start it.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Originally posted by Maxhouse97 View PostYes fuel pump makes sense. I am trying to start it right away like normal. Thanks.
Just googled fuel pump replace - seems fairly in depth. However the car has 127k miles, and my theory is to replace parts with new if/when I have problems.
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Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
Fuel pump takes 15 mins, it's very easy to access.
Spray with with PB Blaster and let it sit for 20-30 minutes before trying to remove it. Don't just hammer it in one spot, go around the fuel pump and try to get some decent impacts all around to free up any seize there might be in the threads. Just be patient if it doesn't start unthreading immediately. Try to drive it down to a 1/4 tank or less to make it less messy. If possible let it sit overnight to relieve the fuel pressure in the line before disconnecting it. Don't light a cigarette or anything while doing the job.
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Originally posted by eacmen View PostIf possible let it sit overnight to relieve the fuel pressure in the line before disconnecting it.2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
Fuel pump takes 15 mins, it's very easy to access.
New part is $400 from ECS. You own an old BMW, be ready to spend some $$.
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Originally posted by Cbouts View Post
seriously, super easy process... get some towels to make sure you can clean up any leaks. hardest part is unplugging the pump (still easy) as it unplugs diagonally. look it up on YouTube. ShopLife does a good review on an E46.
New part is $400 from ECS. You own an old BMW, be ready to spend some $$.'04 LSB Coupe 6MT
All my money goes towards maintenance.
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Originally posted by dukeofchen View Post
Another option available is to use the radium engineering kit to swap the pump itself while retaining the original housing. I swapped an AEM 340LPH unit into mine a couple weeks ago and have been happy with it thus far, quieter than the old unit that was likely failing, but time will tell as far as longevity. Got away with it for around $170 if I recall correctly, doing the swap added an hour or two to the procedure for me.
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Originally posted by gabylonfive View Post
I recall reading awhile ago that a few folks had issues with the radium kit and the included electrical connectors arcing and melting (causing intermittent or total failure.) Do you know if this was ever addressed? I'm planning to replace my pump in one way or another soon and would rather do the radium kit if all the kinks were worked out...2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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Originally posted by dl.m3 View PostIf this only occurs on warm starts. Then it's your fuel pressure check valve. The fuel pump doesn't always prime on warm starts so if your check valve is bad then all the pressure bleeds off. On cold starts your pump will prime every time (audible).
EDIT: 50's kid ftw :https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logoLast edited by jdamore44; 07-15-2020, 11:08 AM.
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