Rear axle rebuild/replacement?

[maupineda]

So in the pic above, I slid the boot back and checked if there's enough space to get the ball bearings out and it didn't seem like there's enough space without removing the circled cap which is maybe a press fit into the outer CV and can be removed? I'm going to try and clear out the old grease and take a closer look.

I was told by my WRL buddy that these are the inner CV's so ordered two, I will report back if they are the correct replacement. As far as I know we can't get outer CV replacements, which is why I was hoping to be able to disassemble the outer and check for pitting before throwing them in the new race car.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...kn-91133292301

Did this work? I may have a worn inner joint.

[CrookedCommie]

Did this work? I may have a worn inner joint.

Yes the GKN 302303 appears to be the correct inner CV, however the end caps and boot are different, I would use the E46M part number for those. You will have to bang the inner CV in pretty good to get it to seat all the way.

[maupineda]

Yes the GKN 302303 appears to be the correct inner CV, however the end caps and boot are different, I would use the E46M part number for those. You will have to bang the inner CV in pretty good to get it to seat all the way.

Like the spline in the CV is not the exact size?

[CrookedCommie]

Like the spline in the CV is not the exact size?

I've not installed a new bmw one, I believe it's the same size but they are tapered so installation requires a bit of force. Clean the axle and new CV splines with a drill wire brush, use brake cleaner, grease both up. Take a big socket and bang against the inner part of the CV, TAKE NOTE of the orientation of how it goes in. The side with the lip goes towards the middle of the axle, the flush side goes towards the outside of the axle. Put the axle nut on so you don't damage the splines and bang the axle against a 2x4 or something soft so you don't damage the outer CV. Bang until the circlip can go in.

[CrookedCommie]

Some more info regarding the axle rebuild:
The outer E46M Vaico boot kit came with the correct clamps, but you will have to trick the big 68mm on, use a small hobby screwdriver through the slots to lock it back onto the tab. The inner boot kit came with too small of a clamp for the small side of the boot, see below for the correct one.

To clean the outside CV, I got as much of the old grease out using shop towels and letting it drip out, then used a bucket of gasoline to clean the rest out, by basically jerking the axle in and out of the CV. Use compressed air to blow out the gasoline and grease. Repeat until clean, inspect for any pitting, as a final measure I used brake cleaner to make sure it ran clean out, then dry it out with the compressor. Note that the axles are hollow and there may be old grease in the middle of them. Repack using Redline CV2 and work it back in. Grease the axle shaft and sneak the new boot in through the inner CV side.

For the inner CV grease caps, I used the GKN ones that came with the E46M kit, it is easiest to use a rubber mallet to get them started, and the edges of an anvil and a 2x4 block with a hammer to press them all the way back into place evenly.

Overall this cost me roughly $300 in parts because I had to get two new inner CV's. E46M axles are still available new in Europe but go for $1500+ This is a motherfucker of a job but well worth it, you do not want to miss out on a track or race event due to a bad axle. I will be wrapping the exhaust that goes over the driver side axle to keep it from cooking the grease.

I will update the thread once I get the race car on the track and have ran the axles through the ringer, I have a spare set of shafts that I will rebuild using this method as backups.

Parts I used:

2x Outer boots

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vaico-bmw-cv-boot-kit-rear-outer-33217840674

2x Inner boots

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cv-boot-kit-rear-inner-gkn-33217840673

2x Inner CV's

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-cv-joint-gkn-91133292301

One jar Redline CV2 should be enough to do two axles:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/cv-2-grease-with-moly-14oz-red-line-80401

If you use the E46M GKN boot kit, it comes with too small inner clamp, use this one:

https://hcl-clamping.com/products/ear-hose-clamp-oetiker-adjustable-34-40mm-304ss

[0-60motorsports]

Some more info regarding the axle rebuild:
The outer E46M Vaico boot kit came with the correct clamps, but you will have to trick the big 68mm on, use a small hobby screwdriver through the slots to lock it back onto the tab. The inner boot kit came with too small of a clamp for the small side of the boot, see below for the correct one.

To clean the outside CV, I got as much of the old grease out using shop towels and letting it drip out, then used a bucket of gasoline to clean the rest out, by basically jerking the axle in and out of the CV. Use compressed air to blow out the gasoline and grease. Repeat until clean, inspect for any pitting, as a final measure I used brake cleaner to make sure it ran clean out, then dry it out with the compressor. Note that the axles are hollow and there may be old grease in the middle of them. Repack using Redline CV2 and work it back in. Grease the axle shaft and sneak the new boot in through the inner CV side.

For the inner CV grease caps, I used the GKN ones that came with the E46M kit, it is easiest to use a rubber mallet to get them started, and the edges of an anvil and a 2x4 block with a hammer to press them all the way back into place evenly.

Overall this cost me roughly $300 in parts because I had to get two new inner CV's. E46M axles are still available new in Europe but go for $1500+ This is a motherfucker of a job but well worth it, you do not want to miss out on a track or race event due to a bad axle. I will be wrapping the exhaust that goes over the driver side axle to keep it from cooking the grease.

I will update the thread once I get the race car on the track and have ran the axles through the ringer, I have a spare set of shafts that I will rebuild using this method as backups.

Parts I used:

2x Outer boots

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vaico-bmw-cv-boot-kit-rear-outer-33217840674

2x Inner boots

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cv-boot-kit-rear-inner-gkn-33217840673

2x Inner CV's

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-cv-joint-gkn-91133292301

One jar Redline CV2 should be enough to do two axles:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/cv-2-grease-with-moly-14oz-red-line-80401

If you use the E46M GKN boot kit, it comes with too small inner clamp, use this one:
https://hcl-clamping.com/products/ea...-34-40mm-304ss

Thank you for posting this information

[Halftim3]

I just want to add that while the rear axles are removed, it is the perfect time to replace the rear wheel bearings, especially the driver side.

[dHam_Slow.46M]

Some more info regarding the axle rebuild:
The outer E46M Vaico boot kit came with the correct clamps, but you will have to trick the big 68mm on, use a small hobby screwdriver through the slots to lock it back onto the tab. The inner boot kit came with too small of a clamp for the small side of the boot, see below for the correct one.

To clean the outside CV, I got as much of the old grease out using shop towels and letting it drip out, then used a bucket of gasoline to clean the rest out, by basically jerking the axle in and out of the CV. Use compressed air to blow out the gasoline and grease. Repeat until clean, inspect for any pitting, as a final measure I used brake cleaner to make sure it ran clean out, then dry it out with the compressor. Note that the axles are hollow and there may be old grease in the middle of them. Repack using Redline CV2 and work it back in. Grease the axle shaft and sneak the new boot in through the inner CV side.

For the inner CV grease caps, I used the GKN ones that came with the E46M kit, it is easiest to use a rubber mallet to get them started, and the edges of an anvil and a 2x4 block with a hammer to press them all the way back into place evenly.

Overall this cost me roughly $300 in parts because I had to get two new inner CV's. E46M axles are still available new in Europe but go for $1500+ This is a motherfucker of a job but well worth it, you do not want to miss out on a track or race event due to a bad axle. I will be wrapping the exhaust that goes over the driver side axle to keep it from cooking the grease.

I will update the thread once I get the race car on the track and have ran the axles through the ringer, I have a spare set of shafts that I will rebuild using this method as backups.

Parts I used:

2x Outer boots

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vaico-bmw-cv-boot-kit-rear-outer-33217840674

2x Inner boots

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cv-boot-kit-rear-inner-gkn-33217840673

2x Inner CV's

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-cv-joint-gkn-91133292301

One jar Redline CV2 should be enough to do two axles:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/cv-2-grease-with-moly-14oz-red-line-80401

If you use the E46M GKN boot kit, it comes with too small inner clamp, use this one:
https://hcl-clamping.com/products/ea...-34-40mm-304ss

Dumb Question, but would the Porsche Kit mainly just be for the inner joint itself when doing the refresh?

[CrookedCommie]

Dumb Question, but would the Porsche Kit mainly just be for the inner joint itself when doing the refresh?

Exactly, just the inner CV. The boot and grease caps are different. I couldn't find the e46m specific part number.

[thegenius46m]

Stumbled upon this while repacking my inner CVs with the gkn boot kit and it is great news that the Porsche CVs Are a direct fit for the inners, but unless anyone has found a solution for the outers I am questioning what the purpose of just replacing one side of the axle is when obviously the outer do develop play over a lifespan And essentially, you’re just rebuilding half of the axle.

Now after doing this job, I was seriously, considering ordering the inners to do at a waiter time, but if there is no way to rebuild the outer joints, I’m having a hard time justifying doing all the work to only improve the axle maybe 50% instead of a full refresh because greasing alone is not a rebuild. It is just a “repack” which obviously does not reduce any play in the joint it just fills it with grease.

Curious, if anyone can try in if they found a solution to date?

Currently axles are almost $1000 each side from BMW for brand new, which at that price you might as well go aftermarket to some upgraded option like driveshaft shop.

[Bry5on]

Well I did inners and then about a year later caved and bought OEM half shafts. If that helps at all.

[thegenius46m]

Haha precisely my point then. Thank you

[Cubieman]

Can anyone give any tips on prying open the "cup" on the outer CV without ruining it?

Also what would the best method to punch out the (likely stuck) axle without mushrooming/and or ruining axle threads?

[Bry5on]

Can anyone give any tips on prying open the "cup" on the outer CV without ruining it?

Also what would the best method to punch out the (likely stuck) axle without mushrooming/and or ruining axle threads?

You have a 3D printer? You could easily make a tool to use to incrementally tap the cover off.

Pneumatic drift, or any of the various tools that bolt to the hub with a jack screw will both get the axle out without damaging any threads.

[Cubieman]

You have a 3D printer? You could easily make a tool to use to incrementally tap the cover off.

Pneumatic drift, or any of the various tools that bolt to the hub with a jack screw will both get the axle out without damaging any threads.

I do not have a 3D printer, but more interested in getting one lately. What type/shape of tool are you imagining?

I wish these were still available, even had orings..