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7 year review of my SMG (from clunk to no clunk)

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    #46
    When you lengthen the hose you introduce the possibility of pressure drop depending on the velocity of the fluid. That combined with thicker burkhart oil is likely leading to issues described when combined with the relocation and cold weather.

    Only the CH11 fluid should be used with the relocation harness. The burkhart fluid should only be used for SMG pumps in their original position as its thicker viscosity is meant to help in situations where the SMG pump gets too hot where the CH11 becomes less effective.

    Also bleeding and adapting the smg unit in the relocation position can be difficult. The unit must be oriented in its original position during bleeding before being mounted in the drug bin.

    Comment


      #47
      Originally posted by eacmen View Post
      When you lengthen the hose you introduce the possibility of pressure drop depending on the velocity of the fluid. That combined with thicker burkhart oil is likely leading to issues described when combined with the relocation and cold weather.

      Only the CH11 fluid should be used with the relocation harness. The burkhart fluid should only be used for SMG pumps in their original position as its thicker viscosity is meant to help in situations where the SMG pump gets too hot where the CH11 becomes less effective.
      Possible but:

      1. I'm relocated.
      2. I've been using Burkhart fluid for two years.
      3. I don't throw random codes and never have.
      4. I drive my car year round from really cold to really hot.

      I think something else is not optimal.

      Last edited by oceansize; 03-28-2021, 12:03 PM.
      3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

      Comment


        #48
        Originally posted by oceansize View Post

        Possible but:

        1. I'm relocated.
        2. I've been using Burkhart fluid for two years.
        3. I don't throw random codes and never have.
        4. I drive my car year round from really cold to really hot.

        I think something else is not optimal.

        There is much variance between the condition and quality of the smg pump. A pump in very good condition can likely overcome the pressure drop that may be experienced with the longer hoses.

        In either situation burkhart does not recommend their own fluid for the relocated pump because it will not reach their target hot viscosity value. If it works for you that’s great but may not work for everyone.

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by eacmen View Post

          There is much variance between the condition and quality of the smg pump. A pump in very good condition can likely overcome the pressure drop that may be experienced with the longer hoses.

          In either situation burkhart does not recommend their own fluid for the relocated pump because it will not reach their target hot viscosity value. If it works for you that’s great but may not work for everyone.
          This is why I think something isn't optimal since I rebuilt my pump at the time of my relocation. This is the first I've heard of Burkhart not recommending there fluid for relocations and yes I talked directly to them two years ago. Not saying things don't change but I will talk to them again this week and see what they tell me.
          3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

          Comment


            #50
            Originally posted by oceansize View Post

            This is why I think something isn't optimal since I rebuilt my pump at the time of my relocation. This is the first I've heard of Burkhart not recommending there fluid for relocations and yes I talked directly to them two years ago. Not saying things don't change but I will talk to them again this week and see what they tell me.
            👍

            Please see the bottom of this page for their relocation kit:

            Lieferumfang: Vier Verlängerungshydraulikleitungen für das Versetzen der SMG 2 Hydraulikeinheit in den Motorraum bzw. „Wasserkasten“   Features: Plug and Play dank der

            Comment


              #51
              Originally posted by oceansize View Post

              This is why I think something isn't optimal since I rebuilt my pump at the time of my relocation. This is the first I've heard of Burkhart not recommending there fluid for relocations and yes I talked directly to them two years ago. Not saying things don't change but I will talk to them again this week and see what they tell me.
              I emailed them a couple of weeks ago and this was their response. I have a rebuilt pump and did the relocation at the same time. I just did a fluid flush back to CHF11 with a slave cylinder replacement. Will see how it goes and hopefully no further error codes.

              ——

              Hello Zivago,

              thank you for your message.

              In few cases we had same problems when customers relocated the unit and used our performance oil during cold weather.

              Please use the genuine Pentosin oil. When the hydraulic unit is relocated the regular hydraulic oil.

              Regards, Johannes

              Mit freundlichen Grüßen
              kind regards

              Ihr Burkhart Engineering-Team

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                👍

                Please see the bottom of this page for their relocation kit:

                https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...6-m3-inkl-csl/
                Solves that. I'll be the experiment to see how long I go without issues.
                3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by zivagolee View Post

                  I emailed them a couple of weeks ago and this was their response. I have a rebuilt pump and did the relocation at the same time. I just did a fluid flush back to CHF11 with a slave cylinder replacement. Will see how it goes and hopefully no further error codes.

                  ——

                  Hello Zivago,

                  thank you for your message.

                  In few cases we had same problems when customers relocated the unit and used our performance oil during cold weather.

                  Please use the genuine Pentosin oil. When the hydraulic unit is relocated the regular hydraulic oil.

                  Regards, Johannes

                  Mit freundlichen Grüßen
                  kind regards

                  Ihr Burkhart Engineering-Team
                  Thanks and that definitely lets me know that my rebuilt pump is working great lol.
                  3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Good feedback guys. I'm committed to the SMG and this is a recreational car for me so I'm just going to keep adjusting/replacing until it's completely sorted and reliable. Next steps:
                    • Run another INPA bleed with pump in original position.
                    • If issues continue, replace fluid with OE
                    • If issues continue, replace clutch slave
                    • If issues continue, replace pump...

                    Comment


                      #55
                      I figure I might add something to this thread regarding editing your inpa.ini file if you have a newer version of INPA (version 5.06). If you downloaded your INPA program through BimmerGeeks (at least from my experience), then in order to modify your inpa.ini file so that you can access the SMG clutch adaptation option, instead of going to "C:\EC-APPS\INPA\CFGDAT", you need to go to "C:\EC-APPS\INPA\PRT\ENGLISCH" and then click on the "E3PROTOK" file and edit this one.

                      I tried doing it the way that Irhase46m3 did it but to no avail it wasn't changing anything, so after doing some digging around the files I found out that you need to edit the E3PROTOK file for it to work. I might add I am using windows 10 as well.

                      Hopefully this helps if anyone was trying to access the clutch adaptation option before but had no luck.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by robgill View Post
                        Good feedback guys. I'm committed to the SMG and this is a recreational car for me so I'm just going to keep adjusting/replacing until it's completely sorted and reliable. Next steps:
                        • Run another INPA bleed with pump in original position.
                        • If issues continue, replace fluid with OE
                        • If issues continue, replace clutch slave
                        • If issues continue, replace pump...
                        I’d replace the fluid first... old fluid is public enemy #1 in these systems... the pumps get blamed, but I’m convinced it’s the fluid... similar cars with similar fluid and pumps see the same thing... pumps, lines and accumulators fail when the fluid hasn’t been changed and no one thinks hard enough about the fluid... hydraulic fluid doesn’t last forever, especially in heat cycling, or let alone extreme heat cycling (cold starts, hot summer runs)... change that fluid first... it’ll be instructive I think... the hardware on these cars is fairly robust... for my part, I changed the fluid before I ever saw any problems as a matter of good maintenance... and I’ve yet to see any problems... I can’t claim causation yet, but...

                        maw

                        Comment


                          #57
                          KInda at my wits end.... are folks really bleeding 24-30 times to get all the air out when relocating?

                          I relocated the pump about a year ago. I bleed the system and have driven without issue. But after about 30 miles I get a buzz coming from the pump when slowing down to a light and gear shifts from 2 to 1.
                          I bleed the system now a total of 5 times. Each time the same. No cog, no shifting issues...just this "buzz". Again, only when the car shifts from 2 -1 when stopping at a light. No buzzing when I shift.
                          Do I just keep bleeding actuator and clutch over and over and over...??
                          I have not seen any leaks.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Originally posted by humarahumara View Post
                            KInda at my wits end.... are folks really bleeding 24-30 times to get all the air out when relocating?

                            I relocated the pump about a year ago. I bleed the system and have driven without issue. But after about 30 miles I get a buzz coming from the pump when slowing down to a light and gear shifts from 2 to 1.
                            I bleed the system now a total of 5 times. Each time the same. No cog, no shifting issues...just this "buzz". Again, only when the car shifts from 2 -1 when stopping at a light. No buzzing when I shift.
                            Do I just keep bleeding actuator and clutch over and over and over...??
                            I have not seen any leaks.
                            I have the same buzz from time to time since my relocation. It doesn't seem to cause any issues and this has been going on for thousands of miles. I can only figure that after the relocation noises that were at one time hidden by engine noise are more pronounced, or there is some very small amount of air trapped in the system which is certainly possible as buzzing can be symptom of air. FYI, when bleeding I typically orientate the pump in its original position for better results.
                            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by humarahumara View Post
                              KInda at my wits end.... are folks really bleeding 24-30 times to get all the air out when relocating?

                              I relocated the pump about a year ago. I bleed the system and have driven without issue. But after about 30 miles I get a buzz coming from the pump when slowing down to a light and gear shifts from 2 to 1.
                              I bleed the system now a total of 5 times. Each time the same. No cog, no shifting issues...just this "buzz". Again, only when the car shifts from 2 -1 when stopping at a light. No buzzing when I shift.
                              Do I just keep bleeding actuator and clutch over and over and over...??
                              I have not seen any leaks.
                              Hi There - I used to have the buzz specially when it starts heating up in CA, i dont have this buzz anymore, from my experience the buzz is coming from the transmission gear actuator (which is the longest line) - I had to bleed probably around 12 - 16 times to get all the air out (just at this step and nothing else) - Additionally, what helped me in the end, was how the lines got routed to the pump, if you are bending a line too much, the sound will be more pronounced. As of right now i do not have any issues with the pump, no strange noises.

                              Hope this info helps!

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by Irhase46m3 View Post

                                Hi There - I used to have the buzz specially when it starts heating up in CA, i dont have this buzz anymore, from my experience the buzz is coming from the transmission gear actuator (which is the longest line) - I had to bleed probably around 12 - 16 times to get all the air out (just at this step and nothing else) - Additionally, what helped me in the end, was how the lines got routed to the pump, if you are bending a line too much, the sound will be more pronounced. As of right now i do not have any issues with the pump, no strange noises.

                                Hope this info helps!
                                Just to add a bit more info, i always bleed it with a battery charger attached, chf11s or burkhart fluid at around 20C and with the pump in its horizontal position, in CA weather its pretty easy to achieve on a summer morning and of course using INPA.

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