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    Megan Racing Headers Install

    Do I need to get longer studs? Do I need to get new copper header nuts? Should I go with OEM Header gaskets or just use the ones that came with the Megan Headers?

    Thanks for the help!

    #2
    Definitely get new copper nuts, and OEM gaskets. People have posted stories about non-OEM gaskets leaking and having to do the job all over again. You definitely don't want that, it's a pain in the ass to even do once. It's worth the extra $60 to be sure.

    Can't say for sure whether or not you need longer studs, but I think not.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
      Definitely get new copper nuts, and OEM gaskets. People have posted stories about non-OEM gaskets leaking and having to do the job all over again. You definitely don't want that, it's a pain in the ass to even do once. It's worth the extra $60 to be sure.

      Can't say for sure whether or not you need longer studs, but I think not.
      I am one of those stories LOL. I tried to go the cheap route and use the Megan gaskets with gasket maker and those things leaked so bad. I ended up having to remove everything and redoing the install with OEM gaskets. My advice:

      1. Get OEM gaskets (THIS IS A MUST!)
      2. Get new copper nuts because they are slightly oblong so ensure they don't back out later. The used ones round out after being installed and heat cycled.
      3. Replace the studs with longer ones. This is not necessary for this header but it definitely makes threading on the nut easier, especially in the hard-to-reach areas.

      If you do all of that, you should have a header that doesn't leak and performed the same as the top dollar options at a fraction of the price =). If you want to save money, then at minimum get the gaskets.

      Comment


        #4
        Looks like I'm going for the trifecta. Don't wanna have to do the job over again because of the gaskets. Whats the general consensus on studs? N54 studs??

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by M3mike View Post
          Looks like I'm going for the trifecta. Don't wanna have to do the job over again because of the gaskets. Whats the general consensus on studs? N54 studs??
          These are the ones I used: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ud-11127593376

          Comment


            #6
            Hey guys, thanks for this thread, just bought a set of these headers for myself as well

            Thanks for the link for the studs, are these the copper nuts you used?

            https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-11721437202

            Love this forum
            Last edited by siamkazi; 08-05-2020, 12:53 PM.
            | 06 6 Speed Vert - JB on Cinnamon| Beisan | ACL Rod Bearings | ST Sway Bar | TMS CSL Box | Megan headers | H.T.E Tune | 550 Injectors | OEM Section 1, 2, 3| 200 Cell Cats | OEM SSK | Bilstein B12| 712 yellow tag |



            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by siamkazi View Post
              Hey guys, thanks for this thread, just bought a set of these headers for myself as well

              Thanks for the link for the studs, are these the copper nuts you used?

              https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-11721437202

              Love this forum
              Yep, those are the ones I used as well.

              Comment


                #8
                Are the rear o2s able to be installed on the megan headers, or do you have to block them off and code them out if you don't have a section 1 with cats?
                Garage:
                2002 BMW M3: Slicktop jetblack/cinnamon. SMG to 6-speed. Arc-8's. Koni yellows/Dinan springs. Macht elbow. Megan headers. Stock section 1+AR20. SCZA section 3.
                1998 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel: Pizza bag warmer.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post
                  Are the rear o2s able to be installed on the megan headers, or do you have to block them off and code them out if you don't have a section 1 with cats?
                  You might have to code them out. When I got mine installed the shop said that the rear O2 sensors couldn’t reach the bungs but I’m not sure if this issue was ever resolved as others had that same issue with Megan headers.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    My O2s reached no problem

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Post cat O2s can reach quite far, just a matter of the tech knowing how to route them.
                      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                      More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ob917 View Post
                        My O2s reached no problem
                        They didn't hit the heat shield, or body of the car either? Thank you for the info!
                        Garage:
                        2002 BMW M3: Slicktop jetblack/cinnamon. SMG to 6-speed. Arc-8's. Koni yellows/Dinan springs. Macht elbow. Megan headers. Stock section 1+AR20. SCZA section 3.
                        1998 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel: Pizza bag warmer.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post

                          They didn't hit the heat shield, or body of the car either? Thank you for the info!
                          nope if I remember it was very straight forward. I may have had to bend a heat shield slightly but I don’t remember exactly.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The post cat O2s will not route the same way and the EGT will be stretched. They're place fillers at this point. I cut the EGT wire at the sensor and disconnected it up top. The thing is useless without cats. Put the sensors on before you mount them. I replaced all of my studs and nuts with short ones and it was fine. There are a few spots on the bottom extended studs won't work. Pop off the coolant the metal coolant pipe. It helps ALOT. Good luck 👍
                            This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                            "Do it right once or do it twice"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I didn’t change any stock studs and had no issues.

                              Comment

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