Was wondering if anyone has had luck removing blind plug that houses the dreaded compression spring, without dropping the transmission, and if so, how to pull it out with limited space. The only DIY I know of is lost on the M3Forum.
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SMG Compression Spring without dropping transmission
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All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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One of those springs was updated to a stronger version, see the photos below.
I copied this from a spring detent post on the old M3Forum.
S6S420G INNER GEAR SHIFTING PARTS
Sequential M transmission Drivelogic
S793A=Yes
01 Repair kit, locking 1 23317506947 $124.60
02 Hex bolt M6X18 2 23317545769 $0.67
03 WAVE WASHER B6 2 23317545770 $0.78
04 Cap 1 23211222729 $6.75
05 Blind plug 1 23317545771 $6.03
06 Compression spring D=1,25 1 23311228397 $1.67
07 Locking pin 1 23311282539 $17.09
08 Locking device 1 23317530787 $27.06
09 Compression spring 1 23311228405 $2.75
10 Ball D=8MM III 1 07119986280 $0.66
I inserted my pickup tool and pulled out the locking pin and compression spring together. Quickly grabbed the new parts: 23311228397 (spring) and 23311282539 (locking pin) inserted the new spring into the locking pin, and put the roller side in first. This will be apparent when you are looking at the parts, it is kind of confusing looking at the diagrams.
I only replaced 1 spring when I did this and it was the one behind the pressed in plug. If you click the Part Number for item #6 (23311228397) you will see that the part was superseded by 23317511337, which is the same part number as item #9.
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I don't think its possible to replace all springs without dropping the transmission, even if you try to pivot, there is not enough clearance to reach the top springs. I've had to drop the transmission a few times and replaced the springs as preventative measure (along with a bunch of other things) - Typically the symptoms for a broken spring are delayed shifting in gear pairs (1 - 3 - 5) (2 - 4 - 6) - The delay comes due to the system needing to recalculate rod travel time within the transmission, the springs act as a resistance to hold transmission internal rails that each gear has hence if broken there is no resistance and it moves freely through rail.
Hope this sheds some light to your problem.
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Loosen the engine mounts, radiator shroud and remove the plastic valve cover trim. Then you can take the sec 2 exhaust section down and drop the transmission brace. This allows you to angle the transmission down for extra room. Getting it out isnt bad but putting the plug back in is difficult.
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Originally posted by Irhase46m3 View PostI don't think its possible to replace all springs without dropping the transmission, even if you try to pivot, there is not enough clearance to reach the top springs. I've had to drop the transmission a few times and replaced the springs as preventative measure (along with a bunch of other things) - Typically the symptoms for a broken spring are delayed shifting in gear pairs (1 - 3 - 5) (2 - 4 - 6) - The delay comes due to the system needing to recalculate rod travel time within the transmission, the springs act as a resistance to hold transmission internal rails that each gear has hence if broken there is no resistance and it moves freely through rail.
Hope this sheds some light to your problem.2002 BMW M3 Coupe Jet Black/Black (sold)
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+ Deep Blue Metallic/White (hopefully gone soon)
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Originally posted by OEMaddict View Post
My current symptoms is delayed shifting at high RPM or high throttle regardless of gear (2-6), and when I scanned for codes I got something like Gear Not Changable / Gear cannot be engaged... when I try to adapt SMG it says "the shift path end positions for odd gears are too different"... so that's why I thought it led to the spring, and hopefully not the GPS.
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Originally posted by Irhase46m3 View Post
Interesting, i guess it is possible for multiple springs to be broken, my suggestion to you is to drop the transmission and deal with multiple service items so you do it once, the gps can be replaced with out the need of dropping the transmission. Unfortunately both faulty GPS and broken springs have similar symptoms. I wish i could offer more insight- if you do plan on dropping the transmission i could make a list of key replacement parts if it helps in any way2002 BMW M3 Coupe Jet Black/Black (sold)
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+ Deep Blue Metallic/White (hopefully gone soon)
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Yes, i suggest replacing the flywheel and clutch at the same time, also include the rear main seal, for the rear main use OEM BMW part. Here you go, this is my suggestion from experience the most critical parts, hope this helps.
You need two of these, one goes on the transmission end and other on the SMG actuator, it tends to leak SMG fluid on the actuator side.
23127501582 X2 – Shift rod seal on transmission & SMG actuator
Location on Actuator side:
Please note the angle lock pin goes in when replacing
23311282539 x1
Replace inputshaft & output shaft seal
23121228493 x1 (in)
23121222769 x1 (out)
Replace throwout bearing and fork pin
Replace throwout bearing with OEM BMW part!
21511223582 x1 (bearing)
013236ECS01A x1 (bronze pin from ECS Tunning)
21511223302 x1 Clutch fork
Last edited by Irhase46m3; 08-19-2020, 09:30 AM.
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Originally posted by OEMaddict View PostWas wondering if anyone has had luck removing blind plug that houses the dreaded compression spring, without dropping the transmission, and if so, how to pull it out with limited space. The only DIY I know of is lost on the M3Forum.
First off my car was missing shifts, skipping, then going back to all gears but slow/delayed then just dropping out of gear. Not very consistent with anything I have seen reported so it goes without saying none of my springs were broken and GPS was replaced once before Hate this damn car lol.
Second, it is not nearly as difficult to take out the plug if you know where to pry from and what specific tools to use. The mental block is much worse than the actual job.
Okay so I did it without removing the transmission, I had a variety pry tool s and screw drivers but the below tool was the magic bullet.
Release all the hydrolines from the plastic clips and remove the one held on by a nut at the top of the transmission so the line can flex and stick this in at about a 5-6 O'clock position and wedge it under the plug. Now get your hammer and start tapping. After it starts coming out, remove the GPS Sensor (probably optional but it takes two seconds and gives much more room) and get a long screw driver (I think I used a 10" x 3/8 flat head) and wedge it in from above the actuator. Get the tip wedged under the plug and lip and pry away. A couple tries alternating the two tools and it comes right off.
Finally, to remove the pins, springs and balls - just grab a strong magnet (I used the one I bought for vanos solenoid cleaning) and put it against the holes, sucks em right out.
As for the top spring, not sure if I can do that. Gonna try right now and pray to the car gods that it is broken - otherwise I'm boned.
Edit: You can get to all of them without dropping the transmission, just make sure you have a ratcheting 10mm or you'll be there a while. Turns out it was the top springs for me. I am the luckiest person in the world to have caught them. When I took the bolts out the plate would not come off, so I went to grab a screw driver and the plate shot off and the springs flew out. Lucky I found them easy and they looked good so I reinstalled quickly out of frustration. Then when I was cleaning up I grabbed those big magnets and sure enough just 2 little coils of thin spring were stuck to it. I would have never seen it had it not been for the magnets being in the right place, still can't believe I caught it. I would have chased my tail around for months and probably parted the car out if I didn't catch that. Gonna take it apart tomorrow again to verify but it can't be anything else.Last edited by Icecream; 12-11-2020, 12:22 AM.
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Originally posted by Icecream View Post
Just did this on mine so thought I would share my experience:
First off my car was missing shifts, skipping, then going back to all gears but slow/delayed then just dropping out of gear. Not very consistent with anything I have seen reported so it goes without saying none of my springs were broken and GPS was replaced once before Hate this damn car lol.
Second, it is not nearly as difficult to take out the plug if you know where to pry from and what specific tools to use. The mental block is much worse than the actual job.
Okay so I did it without removing the transmission, I had a variety pry tool s and screw drivers but the below tool was the magic bullet.
Release all the hydrolines from the plastic clips and remove the one held on by a nut at the top of the transmission so the line can flex and stick this in at about a 5-6 O'clock position and wedge it under the plug. Now get your hammer and start tapping. After it starts coming out, remove the GPS Sensor (probably optional but it takes two seconds and gives much more room) and get a long screw driver (I think I used a 10" x 3/8 flat head) and wedge it in from above the actuator. Get the tip wedged under the plug and lip and pry away. A couple tries alternating the two tools and it comes right off.
Finally, to remove the pins, springs and balls - just grab a strong magnet (I used the one I bought for vanos solenoid cleaning) and put it against the holes, sucks em right out.
As for the top spring, not sure if I can do that. Gonna try right now and pray to the car gods that it is broken - otherwise I'm boned.
Edit: You can get to all of them without dropping the transmission, just make sure you have a ratcheting 10mm or you'll be there a while. Turns out it was the top springs for me. I am the luckiest person in the world to have caught them. When I took the bolts out the plate would not come off, so I went to grab a screw driver and the plate shot off and the springs flew out. Lucky I found them easy and they looked good so I reinstalled quickly out of frustration. Then when I was cleaning up I grabbed those big magnets and sure enough just 2 little coils of thin spring were stuck to it. I would have never seen it had it not been for the magnets being in the right place, still can't believe I caught it. I would have chased my tail around for months and probably parted the car out if I didn't catch that. Gonna take it apart tomorrow again to verify but it can't be anything else.2002 BMW M3 Coupe Jet Black/Black (sold)
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+ Deep Blue Metallic/White (hopefully gone soon)
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Hey guys,
Got the dreaded SMG light and car only has R, 2nd & 5th.
Replaced the GPS with 2 different used units and still getting the shift gate mid position can not be found.
I remember looking at the detent springs when I did the clutch in 2019 and I can’t remember which one I replaced. Apparently they are different sizes and I ordered the 2 of the same springs.
I decided to blindly get the spring out and to my surprise, it’s now out. Does not appear broken, but is it the skinny long one? Is it possible that it’s worn?
Any other thoughts on what it could be?1 Photo
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Originally posted by Checkabs View PostHey guys,
Got the dreaded SMG light and car only has R, 2nd & 5th.
Replaced the GPS with 2 different used units and still getting the shift gate mid position can not be found.
I remember looking at the detent springs when I did the clutch in 2019 and I can’t remember which one I replaced. Apparently they are different sizes and I ordered the 2 of the same springs.
I decided to blindly get the spring out and to my surprise, it’s now out. Does not appear broken, but is it the skinny long one? Is it possible that it’s worn?
Any other thoughts on what it could be?2002 BMW M3 Coupe Jet Black/Black (sold)
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+ Deep Blue Metallic/White (hopefully gone soon)
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