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SMG to Manual Bellhousing Machining

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    #46
    Originally posted by BoomTastic View Post

    That is an image of one of my housings.

    That is false, outer step does not exist on a factory design. I would appreciate it if you fixed your mistake associating it with image of my work.
    Thanks for the great photography!

    1. What did I say not correct about your picture?

    2. Can you provide proof that the factory BH has no step for the sleeve?

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      #47
      Originally posted by BoomTastic View Post
      What you re suggesting will not work, you will have a dangling dick of a lever. You are trying to reinvent the wheel and its a recipe for lost time and frustration. Take the time to understand what will happen if you remove any of its spring loaded components. If you are struggling with this concept of the mechanism, walk away, its only gets worse from here on.

      You have two opposing forces with something in the middle, think about what will happen if you take one of them away.
      Have you driven an old 4 speed Honda or Toyota, or VW bug? I'm sure there are millions of cars with no detent whatsoever between 1/2 and 3/4 gear gates, including the old Porsche 911 with the 4sp or 5sp 901 transmission.
      Last edited by sapote; 01-08-2023, 12:39 PM.

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        #48
        interesting inputs. my thoughts:

        The detents are up on the left corner when the trany is installed means the oil doesn't sit at that level for any oil to actually seep out of the plugs. If the simple factory C clip and cover seals the oil inside, any threaded plug will hold it 100%, and adding a thread sealer on top of that is bomb proof.

        The diff plug is technically 95% of the depth of the original style plug as the head sits outside of the casing and the threads are almost just as deep as the plugs are with the C clips (maybe even =). I don't have an original BH but just from looking at how the C clip sits inside + the plug, it seems its equal to the threads of the diff plug. Serviceability is 10x better, not that you'll even need it.

        As for the step, I do one for every BH I make just in case. Its about 1mm and I make sure the clearance is 100% free to avoid any binding. Its impossible to have that issue with the 16mm bore.

        Comparing original 6spd to converted BH, I can't tell the difference in the pressure for R or 5/6.

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          #49
          Originally posted by pawelgawel View Post
          interesting inputs. my thoughts:

          1) The detents are up on the left corner when the trany is installed means the oil doesn't sit at that level for any oil to actually seep out of the plugs. If the simple factory C clip and cover seals the oil inside, any threaded plug will hold it 100%, and adding a thread sealer on top of that is bomb proof.

          2) The diff plug is technically 95% of the depth of the original style plug as the head sits outside of the casing and the threads are almost just as deep as the plugs are with the C clips (maybe even =). I don't have an original BH but just from looking at how the C clip sits inside + the plug, it seems its equal to the threads of the diff plug. Serviceability is 10x better, not that you'll even need it.

          3) As for the step, I do one for every BH I make just in case. Its about 1mm and I make sure the clearance is 100% free to avoid any binding. Its impossible to have that issue with the 16mm bore.

          4) Comparing original 6spd to converted BH, I can't tell the difference in the pressure for R or 5/6.
          Thank you for your inputs.
          1) Oil can migrate and leak even if the detents are sitting above the oil level, i.e. oil leaking through engine valve cover gasket.
          2) Does using the diff plug compress the detent spring more? One way is to measure the total thickness of the stock C-clip + plastc plug + space above the C-clip and compare with the Diff plug threads length.
          3) "I make sure the clearance is 100% free to avoid any binding. Its impossible to have that issue with the 16mm bore."
          So the sleeves slide into the bores easily? If they do, then I would be concerned they will wear out the softer aluminum bore as the sleeve can move whenever the pin are moving back and forth during shifting.
          4) Do you mean for converted box, the detent pressure is the same for R and 5/6th, but for stock box, the R detent is stronger than 5/6th, felt by the hand?

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            #50
            don't like to overthink when it comes to simple things..
            Last edited by pawelgawel; 02-20-2023, 04:44 PM.

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              #51
              Originally posted by pawelgawel View Post
              don't like to overthink when it comes to simple things..
              I was hoping you can help to answer/confirm those simple questions.

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                #52
                Originally posted by pawelgawel View Post
                As for the step, I do one for every BH I make just in case. Its about 1mm and I make sure the clearance is 100% free to avoid any binding. Its impossible to have that issue with the 16mm bore.
                The factory made the bore tight so the sleeve had to be pressed in, for a reason, as this needs more labor times.

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                  #53
                  the factory didn't expect monkeys like us to be converting anything either and here we are lol

                  You're overthinking it. The trany will shit itself before those bushings wear out. As long as they are sitting snug without play, they are fine.

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