What mods would you do on a $10k budget?

[ethan]

If it hasn’t already been done, in this order:
vince bar (subframe)
beisan vanos downs and valve adjustment
replace all fluids with new OE fluids
entire cooling system
every bushings/bearing/ball joint in the suspension
bluebus
TCK S/As
Light weight 18” wheels with good tires (Michelin non all seasons)
replace any interior components that are looking worn/tired

power is the least meaningful upgrade, imo. No matter how much you have, it feels “normal” after a couple weeks. If you DDed a Bugatti, I’m pretty sure it would feel slow after a couple months.

In retrospect, this is exactly how I'd start on a new-to-me M3.

And the argument about power is right, but don't let it deter you from doing the right NA mods with the next $10k (admittedly not part of the question). Part of the beauty of this platform is of course our access to aftermarket CSL-derived parts: generous CSL original owners funded an R&D program for us so that 20 years later, we're now able to capture some small part of the supercar experience in our humble 3 series grocery getters. For me, the best experience(not power)-per-dollar parts combo (after Obioban's perfect baseline list) is a Karbonius airbox, Euro or SSV1 headers, and Schrick cams running a close-to-stock CSL tune. In some ways, it's even better than the real thing (a GT3 e.g.) because you can show up to a track day without insurance and you're not worried about putting miles on it every day like you might be if you had a real asset and not a 7th-hand 120k mile family car.

[Arith2]

I paid $200 shipped for my or euro headers and Oe euro catted section 1, shipped. They can be had cheaply if you shop around.

If you think they’re inferior... I think you have no idea what you’re talking about

As most things (oil especially), it's basically what someone wants to pay. If someone wants to say they have Euro headers then they'll pay the extra dough. I believe that you did pay $200 but not all of us have black market connections and will end up paying twice that until the hype goes down. Both Megan Racing and Euro Headers have stock fitment. Euro headers don't come with bungs but Megan Racing headers do. This will be an issue for the commie states that sniff butts.

Even if Euro headers were cheaper, I would've gone with mine simply just because I don't have cats anymore and install is easier. I definitely think Euro headers are inferior to SS headers.

[pawelgawel]

LOL
perfect timing to burn $10k

as much as i would love to spend $ on the toys I have at the moment, this is not the time to be doing that. Take that $ and put it in the stock market, double it or even triple it in the next 6 months and buy a nice M3 that you can call a collector car Or just pocket the profit and play with the rest. We don't get opportunities like this often enough, take it from someone who missed the boat 10 years ago.

[MTiz]

LOL
perfect timing to burn $10k

as much as i would love to spend $ on the toys I have at the moment, this is not the time to be doing that. Take that $ and put it in the stock market, double it or even triple it in the next 6 months and buy a nice M3 that you can call a collector car Or just pocket the profit and play with the rest. We don't get opportunities like this often enough, take it from someone who missed the boat 10 years ago.

This entire thread is hypothetical for me anyway as I don't own an M3 and don't currently have the means to buy one that isn't clapped. Your advice is appreciated though, as I am a class of 2020 college graduate and these next few months I'll likely have it as bad if not worse than class of 2009. Thankfully I got my degree in an in-demand field (Business Tech), I have decent savings, no loans, and I still live at home. I would like to buy an E46 M3 before the year is over though, it IS my childhood dream car after all-- and I want to do it right. Car with decent maintenance history, fair mileage (80k-100k), 6-Speed of course, and I want to keep it for a long time.

[terra]

As most things (oil especially), it's basically what someone wants to pay. If someone wants to say they have Euro headers then they'll pay the extra dough. I believe that you did pay $200 but not all of us have black market connections and will end up paying twice that until the hype goes down. Both Megan Racing and Euro Headers have stock fitment. Euro headers don't come with bungs but Megan Racing headers do. This will be an issue for the commie states that sniff butts.

Even if Euro headers were cheaper, I would've gone with mine simply just because I don't have cats anymore and install is easier. I definitely think Euro headers are inferior to SS headers.

Even at $500 they’re a much better buy than anything other than SuperSprint. And no one should be running catless so your point about bungs is irrelevant (and if you absolutely have to make your car smell like shit, you can just code out the post-cat sensors). They also flow well enough that they won’t really hold you back until you’ve maxed out everything else.

[Nate047]

Subframe, bearings, VANOS, coilovers, wheels, tires, and brake pads. Can probably make that happen for under 10k if you're crafty.

[jbfrancis3]

The Euro headers are nice pieces. I would certainly pay a little more and there's plenty of headroom as terra suggests; you'd be crazy to skip them and settle for some Margaret headers, or whatever they're called.

[Arith2]

Well I didn't settle. You can cry OEM only but mine are great. It's funny how everyone has an opinion about headers only I seem to own in the replies. I'm not knocking Euro headers but mine literally do the same thing and fit if you want to go catless.

[terra]

[ethan]

Just about to change out some rusted eBay headers on my daily M3 leaking at an unused downstream O2 bung. They're stainless... except the bungs and flanges. Not happy about it.

[2004LSB]

OP:

My top priority would go to maintenance. Once all the major issues have been sorted out along with routine maintenance and care on wear and tear items, fluids, consumables, etc., then start to think about spending some of that money on the fun stuff.

If you're considering a power mod and want to stay NA, I think the Euro headers + catted section 1, Karbonius CSL intake & Paul Claude's MAP tune is a pretty good buy. I gained almost 45 wheel horsepower and approximately 20 foot pounds of torque with this setup (SAE corrected numbers). I had posted my before and after dyno results on the old website. Assuming you have a very healthy engine and all maintenance issues sorted out, I really think this is an awesome setup. I think tuning for this platform has come a long way and we are finally starting to see some sizeable gains with the common bolt on mods. As others have said, this platform really is meant to be run with the CF airbox - - it adds an additional layer of excitement that can't be replicated with other cars. The induction noise never gets old, and you can control the volume at any given moment with your right foot! If you're light with the gas, it sounds stock; under heavier load and throttle applications the S54 really starts to bark and will scare the sh!t out of people around you!

For a street car, I wouldn't waste any $ on suspension unless you like the lowered look.

The Euro headers & cat combo are severely underrated in my opinion. Assuming you find a set in decent condition, you'll never have to worry about fitment or build quality issues.

[Arith2]

Just about to change out some rusted eBay headers on my daily M3 leaking at an unused downstream O2 bung. They're stainless... except the bungs and flanges. Not happy about it.

How long did they last?

[repoman89]

LOL
perfect timing to burn $10k

as much as i would love to spend $ on the toys I have at the moment, this is not the time to be doing that. Take that $ and put it in the stock market, double it or even triple it in the next 6 months and buy a nice M3 that you can call a collector car Or just pocket the profit and play with the rest. We don't get opportunities like this often enough, take it from someone who missed the boat 10 years ago.

I think you’re more likely to halve your money in the stock market in the next six months than double or triple it

[ethan]

How long did they last?

Last as in before they started leaking? About 7 years. Granted, I twisted an upstream bung off trying to remove an O2 sensor in year 3, but I was able to weld a replacement in (had the motor out anyway.)

They've been ugly since they first saw road salt. Contrast that with the stock S1, S2, and muffler which clean up like new. I bet they'd last a long time in Florida or California though...

[Arith2]

Last as in before they started leaking? About 7 years. Granted, I twisted an upstream bung off trying to remove an O2 sensor in year 3, but I was able to weld a replacement in (had the motor out anyway.)

They've been ugly since they first saw road salt. Contrast that with the stock S1, S2, and muffler which clean up like new. I bet they'd last a long time in Florida or California though...

Nah I bought a pair for my old 325 and they leaked in the first six months. Fitment was absolutely aweful and they literally rusted through the header paint. This was in Florida.

Are you upgrading to Supersprints?