How to prep my M3 for proper long-term storage?

[scubastove]

New housing arrangements for me means I have to park the M in a locked garage uptown for the time being, and will likely have to get a daily driver to keep parked on the streets. It will be parked in a locked garage spot, however it's not climate controlled. What are some things I should do prior to storage to make sure the car stays in the tip-top shape that it's currently in? For reference, it's a weekend car now but that will likely be relegated to monthly-weekend car. I'll be able to check up on it at least once a month to start it, warm it up, get the fluids circulating, roll it around, and make sure the battery keeps a charge.

Anything in particular I should keep an eye on/prepare for as well? I've already got a towel covering the dash in the event the rearview springs a leak.

Thanks!

[BMWahba]

I used to rent a garage at one of those public storage units and it was fairly simple. I live in Florida so the biggest thing was keeping rodents and moisture out of the garage.

I recommend placing dryer sheets all around the car. The scent keeps mice and other critters away from your wiring and engine bay. Outside of that I had no real problems, besides getting super dusty. The car would sit for 3-4 weeks at a time and I would go start it and drive it around the block for a few.

Since you’ll be able to get to the car once a month or so, I wouldn’t worry about too much else.


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[m3nt0s]

Same here, I was using a public storage unit to store my M3 due to lack of appropriate garage until recently. No dryer sheets but the facility seemed to have rodents well under control. Used a 10’x20’ outdoor access storage unit, so not an actual garage, but the staff helped me pick a unit I could pull the car into and had no problem with me storing a car that way. There was a tiny bit of room at the end to store some other odds and ends too, which was convenient.

I’d swing by every 2-3 weeks to drive the car around if possible, and ended up keeping the car in storage from November until March with battery being maintained at home and fuel stabilizer while the car was parked. The only item I didn’t anticipate after reconnecting the battery was having to drive the car enough to get it ready for emissions test and spring state inspection (inspection was expired and of course I got a ticket for it while trying to drive it enough for emissions test). Otherwise, the car just got very, very dusty!

[eacmen]

Edited: removed my bad advice.

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[elbert]

Drive the tank down to near empty and put stabil in the fuel tank then run it a little more.

Stabil recommends storing with a 95% full tank using fresh treated fuel.
I've heard the same (an almost full tank is better) from other sources -- I think it has something to do with condensation issues, but don't quote me on that.
You will also want to run the car a bit after adding stabilizer, so that the treated fuel is in the entire system.

If you're going to drive it around at least once a month, that isn't too bad. I sometimes go longer without driving my car.
I do keep the battery on a maintenance charge (or completely disconnect it) -- about a month is when the battery starts getting weak. Plus relying on the alternator to charge an almost depleted battery will put a strain on it.

And a car cover isn't a bad idea either.

[dilmorecg]

I dont know if I call my situation long term storage but I only drive mine in the summer so it sits all winter in my garage. It is our regular garage so I can check on it but I keep it on a battery tender and moisture absorber in the interior. I usually use a plug in one but they make hanging ones or ones you can set on the floor. I also keep a car cover on it to keep the dust down....might be a good time to buy one. I try and start it once a month just cause.

[Cubieman]

I was always under the impression a full tank was better as well as is prevents condensation in the gas tank.

- Battery Tender
- Sta-bil (full tank? Thoughts? I leave it full)
- Anti- rodent measures
- Make sure you drive the car and get it up the temp. when you have the opportunity to do so, don't simply start it and let it idle, better to do nothing if you can't get it up to temp. and I forgot the reasons.

[JamesSJ1]

Full tank. Prevents condensation. If you're not going to go through a full tank worth of gas in ~3 months or less, than add a stabilizer.

[Cbouts]

Same as others have mentioned. I use public storage close to my house. Car goes in for "long term" storage once it starts to get cold but i regularly walk down once or twice a month to start it and keep fluids moving.

facility does a good job with mice so I've never had any issues on that front.

[heinzboehmer]

If you're concerned about rodents, it might not be a bad idea to plug the exhaust pipes and intake. Be sure to put a big reminder on your steering wheel or something so you don't start the car with these things plugged.

[repoman89]

I don’t really do anything special. Fill the tank, pump the tires up a little extra, attach battery tender then leave it all winter, often 6+ months until it starts again. No stabil or monthly starts .. modern fuels are good for at least a year IME and I’m not convinced idling for a while to warm up is any better than sitting. Never any indication that anything is off when I start it back up.

My first 330i sat for a few months one time during my ownership and ran comically rough when I started it back up. That was a neglected beater though with minimal maintenance and 15k OCIs.

[eacmen]

I don’t really do anything special. Fill the tank, pump the tires up a little extra, attach battery tender then leave it all winter, often 6+ months until it starts again. No stabil or monthly starts .. modern fuels are good for at least a year IME and I’m not convinced idling for a while to warm up is any better than sitting. Never any indication that anything is off when I start it back up.

My first 330i sat for a few months one time during my ownership and ran comically rough when I started it back up. That was a neglected beater though with minimal maintenance and 15k OCIs.

I would be more worried about rodents getting in through the vent door near the battery. I had my car parked for a while with the bumper off and a bird got in that way and couldnt get out. Died in the car after pooping everywhere.

Triple check nothing in your car smells like food.


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[e46mpwrd]

I've had my M sit for almost 2 years with some light driving in between (less than 500 miles). Basically filled gas and tires when it sat. Tried to burn the full tank during the light driving then it sat again. Pumped up tire pressure and every so often would roll the car to change wheel position. I didn't even use a battery tender (Resulted in having to buy new battery) Dropped all fluids as soon as I got it back up and running. No issues.

[spnsprt]

Battery tenders are pretty great. I used to have a different car that I couldn't drive that often (1x-2x a year and I pretty had to just keep buying batteries). Also, in terms of the mirror leaking, you could switch to one of the rectangular ones. I bought one on M3F a while back and think it improves visibility too.

[scubastove]

Battery tenders are pretty great. I used to have a different car that I couldn't drive that often (1x-2x a year and I pretty had to just keep buying batteries). Also, in terms of the mirror leaking, you could switch to one of the rectangular ones. I bought one on M3F a while back and think it improves visibility too.

I love the oval shape of the '02 ! So euro and goes well with the side mirrors