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    #16
    I was also under the impression you do that for draining and filling to get all of the coolant in/out of the heater core.

    Yes? No? 🤔
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      #17
      Drain and fill doesn’t get all of the coolant.

      You have to turn the heater on because there is a valve that needs to open.

      I never bother with removing the lower hose. I just drain from the engine block and call it the day. I make sure I do a flush every 2 years or 30k...which ever comes first.

      I installed a banjo bolt and an AN line in the engine block plug. Makes draining the block easy and neat




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        #18
        I got slightly less than half of a 5 gallon bucket's worth out by turning the heat on, pulling the lower hose (what a bitch) and then pulling the block drain bolt. I got a bit more out of the radiator by blowing a bit of compressed air into the expansion tank.
        BTW the coolant looks nasty because there was some oil in the bucket as well.

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        Last edited by Cubieman; 08-19-2020, 06:57 AM.
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          #19
          Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
          Drain and fill doesn’t get all of the coolant.

          You have to turn the heater on because there is a valve that needs to open.

          I never bother with removing the lower hose. I just drain from the engine block and call it the day. I make sure I do a flush every 2 years or 30k...which ever comes first.

          I installed a banjo bolt and an AN line in the engine block plug. Makes draining the block easy and neat

          THIS! I am stealing this. I was trying to think of a funky way to do this but just a simple drain line off the engine block drain point is genius.

          Also like the captured nuts on the Motion Motorsport Underpanel supports... my supports are a bit messed up from actually using a bolt and nut and it deforming the support to shape... this is another idea I may steal...

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            #20
            Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post
            I was also under the impression you do that for draining and filling to get all of the coolant in/out of the heater core.

            Yes? No? 🤔
            Yeah you guys are right. I was thinking about how it wasn't necessary to have the auxiliary electric pump running when draining. The heater core valve does need to be open to get everything out though and I guess you need the key in position 2 for that anyway. I've edited my previous post.
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              #21
              Originally posted by STAATS View Post

              THIS! I am stealing this. I was trying to think of a funky way to do this but just a simple drain line off the engine block drain point is genius.

              Also like the captured nuts on the Motion Motorsport Underpanel supports... my supports are a bit messed up from actually using a bolt and nut and it deforming the support to shape... this is another idea I may steal...
              I think it’s an M12 thread. M12 banjo bolt, banjo to -6AN male, SS hose with straight AN F couplers and an AN plug. Got it all from Frozenboost.com

              Kind of a bitch to get it all in because of the VANOS pressure canister. You can also use an M12 to 6AN adaptor.

              I had speed clips and screws for the under panel. I’d use a rivnut instead.


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                #22
                M14 x 1.5 is the correct size

                Does anyone know if a Fumoto or Stahlbus drain valve would work in place of the bolt to make draining easier?

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