advice on converting from mechanical to electrical fan

[Rich022]

bigjae- that fan is 3.5" wide! ... that's going to be a challenge fitting... just move the engine back a few inches...

[bigjae46]

bigjae- that fan is 3.5" wide! ... that's going to be a challenge fitting... just move the engine back a few inches...

It’s a beotch. I have a CSF rad so not sure if that’s thicker than OE. But I cut off the threads in the water pump which allows it to barely fit. I offset the fan towards the pass side to allow easy
removal of the belt.

You can get the others to fit, just need to remove the oil cooler and slide it in from the bottom. I did that on my s/c’d 330...total PIA.


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[eacmen]

I forget which model spal we mounted but it was thick and had to be mounted offset. We didn't use a shroud ( which i dong recommend) and used those ziptie things through the rad (also don't recommend). But it should be possible.

The rubber gasket thing is a decent compromise if you can't get it to fit with a shroud.

https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/fan_mounting_brackets/parts/30130074

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/Fans/Electric-Fan-Quick-Mount-Kit.html

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[S14]

Exactly...😎

Spal Fans: 20 mmH2O (See Post #21)
Hence the reason I went with the Spal 2082 with the Aux Fan still in place.

2049: 389 cfm at 20.6 amps
2021: 702 cfm at 19.5 amps
2082: 991 cfm at 24 amps

nice setup, what mounts are those for mounting the fan to the radiator?

[zing]

nice setup, what mounts are those for mounting the fan to the radiator?

he's running the N15 design mount

[Zekarus]

i'm running the n15 bracket with the spal 2049 fan. aux fan removed. clutch fan removed obviously. front plastic ducts in place. all ducts on the engine side removed. new thermostat, old radiator that i cleaned. cruising the last days at around 33°C/90°F and driving on the nordschleife the water temps didn't go past the center witch is around 85°C/185°F if remember right and oil temp didn't pass around 105°C/220°C. all together the car runs a bit cooler water temps. but i need a real track day to make a real review.

[evanr614]

Bumping this for some input/help. Running a Spal 2049 with N15 mounts using the stock controller. Water temps sill sometimes creep when stopped and the AC is on. Temps will go down immediately when the AC is turned off. Temps are great when cruising. As my second summer with this setup approaches in Florida I want to sort it out. Would a coder be able to adjust the fan settings? I believe maybe it is just not running enough. Another option was to upgrade to a CSF radiator. Thanks!

[sapote]

Bumping this for some input/help. Running a Spal 2049 with N15 mounts using the stock controller. Water temps sill sometimes creep when stopped and the AC is on. Temps will go down immediately when the AC is turned off.

Does it have the fan shroud or no? Without the shroud, air leak around instead of pulling from front of AC condenser.

[evanr614]

Does it have the fan shroud or no? Without the shroud, air leak around instead of pulling from front of AC condenser.

The shroud was removed. You think that’s all it would take to solve the issue?

[eacmen]

The shroud was removed. You think that’s all it would take to solve the issue?

shroud does more than people give it credit for. especially when the car isnt moving.

[Arith2]

Think of a shroud as a restriction. It creates high pressure on one side and lower pressure on the other. Then it directs that high pressure air into the engine bay with a purpose. The back of the engine bay will probably overheat slightly without a shroud.

[sapote]

The shroud was removed. You think that’s all it would take to solve the issue?

For sure it will improve, as more air will be flowing thru the condenser and the coolant radiator. Without shroud, the fan just cycling the air from its back to front going around, and less air flow thru the radiator and condenser.

[Syfon]

I bought the mishimoto fan with the kit and ran it off the aux fan controller. Phoenix gets up to 42c regularly and it couldn't keep up at all! My car was custom dyno tuned on 93 though, and running 91 in the heat is a contributor. I recently was experiencing overheating on track with 91 octane. Once I put in a 1/2 tank of 100 octane the overheating was far less frequent. My car needs the timming pulled back a bit, but even in normal sub 3k diving, just the mishimoto fan was incapable of keeping the car cool with or without the AC on.

I've been running mine for a month or so with no issues. Running off the aux fan controller (I have not adjusted the oe aux fan controller settings).

Granted we're coming into winter, so no real data yet as to how the mishi puller will perform under hot external conditions paired with either city traffic or hard driving.

My car will be custom tuned to 98ron fuel in due course. Be interesting to see how temps go when it gets hot out.

[Icecream]

I'm just going off what you said. You said it was enough, and I'm giving you a data point that it is not in some areas of the country. My testing is this: removed the fan clutch and the car overheated while at a steady state of 70mph on the freeway. Put the fan clutch back in and it stopped overheating.

I know you posted this a while ago but just another data point, I removed the shroud and mechanical fan since I thought the clutch was on its way out and I have had zero issues in LA for the last few months. It was hot last week and I sit in an hour of traffic and the needle stayed rock solid centered, rest of system is stock. Even driving hard, nothing, stays centered and I have never seen it go past the middle and I can say since I owned this car, before I removed the fan, the temps would creep pretty regularly (though I usually had AC on and recently no AC since I broke the tensioner...). I'm guessing the fan clutch was bad and the fan was just blocking airflow. Interested to see if it gets hot up the grapevine again with the fan back on (drove up it last week and again, solid temps without a mechanical fan and I think it was 85-90 at the bottom, I was hauling up it at around 60-70 and its a good climb). The cooling system is all OEM. Surprised me tbh, almost don't care to put it back on.

[bigjae46]

Think of a shroud as a restriction. It creates high pressure on one side and lower pressure on the other. Then it directs that high pressure air into the engine bay with a purpose. The back of the engine bay will probably overheat slightly without a shroud.

My understanding is the shroud creates a larger pressure differential between the front and back of the shroud. It increases air pressure on the front side which allows for better flow to a lower pressure region behind the shroud.

Bernoulli’s principle - high pressure = lower flow and vice versa. High pressure will flow to low pressure.


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