Originally posted by sbay
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Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed
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WD-40 and scotchbright. Best to put rags in the cylinders to catch any the debris falling into the piston rings.
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Yes, TIS states to replace the entire plug. I have taken out the o-ring to measure it and it shouldn't be too difficult to find a bag of replacement o-rings.Originally posted by IamFODI View PostIf they have that green O-ring, that means they'd need to be replaced, yeah?
The older style plugs, which I kept in case I want to revert back, did use a crush washer, but realOEM no longer lists a part number for the crush washer for the E46. You have to go to an older model, like the E31, where they still have it on the diagram funny enough.
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Any ideas on what to use to remove residue from cylinder walls?1 Photo
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This is the case for the differential since they have built in o-rings. Transmission plugs are reusable and don't have a sealing ring.Originally posted by BRiley View PostDumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?
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Dumb question on transmission fluid change. It seems that some websites / DIY's say you need to replace the transmission fill / drain plugs when changing fluid. Is that true? Why not just the crush washer?
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I would tighten just a little past the existing torque mark just to be sure.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostDo torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?
Why I ask:
I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.
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thanks for the suggestion, just ordered another square set of wheels at 18x10, and thinking i might order a set of 18x9 to run them staggered and sell the other staggered setOriginally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.
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IMO I think the offset of stock rear wheel (+26) is perfect for 18x9. I'm on coilovers and ran 255/40 without any spacers.Originally posted by ugaexploder View Postwhat offset would be ideal for a 18x9 wheel up front to run without spacers? have full adjustability with coils, camber plates, etc
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Do torque marks work for removing and reinstalling a fastener at the same torque?
Why I ask:
I've made a bunch of changes to my ride height. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to loosen and retorque any non-sperical control arm bushings at the new ride height. The rear upper control arms won't fit a torque wrench with the diff in place now, I was thinking what I just mark it as it's properly torqued now then refasten with a box wrench to the marking.
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Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
Same issue being that yours are cracked as well, or also have the creaking sounds too? Lmk what you end up replacing them with
cracking.
so this picture is from last year and probably after 50k (at least) of driving on these. After rethinking maybe yours are failing pretty fast if they are only a few years old. This was daily driving and a handful of track days.
You can see a crack developing.
overall the car has done 50k miles (realistically I think closer to 60-70ish) on these and don’t squeak. They did however squeak for the first 500 miles or so.
i probably will replace them soon with new units as i love the feel… compared to stock. Don’t remember how the poly ones did in comparisonLast edited by L0okitzRaj; 12-26-2024, 06:18 PM.
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