S54 Break in + Tuning

[SteelGreyM]

As the end of my engine build comes into view i'm starting to think about break in and tuning. Seems like most people do not like a synthetic for breaking in. My machine shop recommended non synthetic to break it in and drive it around for 500-1000 miles varying RPM similar to bmw's break in.

I contacted Michael Essa to get his opinion on break in as he has done this plenty of times. He told me he uses liqui moly 20-50 touring oil. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...a-570932874476

Now as far as break in, he told me he will heat cycle the engine a few times and toss is on the dyno. He also said 500 miles of street driving would be good as well.

Who do you guys like for tuning? Dyno tuning to be specific. I want one done after the rebuild.

I wanted to get some feedback from you guys on this. I know theres a few of you here with rebuilt engines so if you could chime in too that would be super helpful!

[eacmen]

As the end of my engine build comes into view i'm starting to think about break in and tuning. Seems like most people do not like a synthetic for breaking in. My machine shop recommended non synthetic to break it in and drive it around for 500-1000 miles varying RPM similar to bmw's break in.

I contacted Michael Essa to get his opinion on break in as he has done this plenty of times. He told me he uses liqui moly 20-50 touring oil. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...a-570932874476

Now as far as break in, he told me he will heat cycle the engine a few times and toss is on the dyno. He also said 500 miles of street driving would be good as well.

Who do you guys like for tuning? Dyno tuning to be specific. I want one done after the rebuild.

I wanted to get some feedback from you guys on this. I know theres a few of you here with rebuilt engines so if you could chime in too that would be super helpful!

Hassan with HTE Performance would be the best place to go for a tune. He can do remote dyno tunes.

https://www.facebook.com/107185774285842/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oceansize]

Here is another thread on break-in.

[SteelGreyM]

Hassan with HTE Performance would be the best place to go for a tune. He can do remote dyno tunes.

https://www.facebook.com/107185774285842/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you i'll shoot him a message!

Here is another thread on break-in.

That guy only did head gasket and rod bearings which don't really require break in. Im trying to correctly seat fresh piston rings.

[digger]

I’d use driven breakin oil, get it hot check for leaks and straight to dyno to get load into it. These days a proper hone job with plateau finish will be basically be broken in after a short session on the dyno. Drop oil and filter after couple hundred miles and onto the synthetic of your choice

[Syfon]

I've been recommended a 15w-40 mineral oil for break in to allow the critical components to establish wear patterns. As for running the motor in, several reputable local engine builders have all told me the same thing; drive the car gently for the first ~1,000KM varying the revs all the time (i.e. never ever sit at a constant rpm for prolonged periods or you will glaze the bores), and to put the car in a higher gear (4th) and drive up a hill (several times) in order to load the motor up allowing the rings to expand and seat against the bores correctly so proper compression and seal is achieved.

I'm awaiting delivery of cams, head bolts and a few other things. Hopefully have the motor together in a 2-3 weeks and the car running by early November!

[F1Dryvr]

For oil i have been reccomended and have read about driven break in oil. Whatever u use should have zddp in it and do not use synthetic. Optimize everything for first start...good gas newish plugs coils and injectors, etc. 1st is a 15min run up to operating temp. Varying rpm between 2-4000rpm amd do not let the car idle. After that can check for leaks. Check compression for baseline. Then can either do street driving or dyno pulls with 60 80 and 100% pulls. Recheck compression and leakdown after this. Compression readings should increase as ringz seat. At this point your rings should be set. Tuning should not be done until after break in. Get the rings seated first then do your tuning. This is what ive found from searching several articles and looking for the consistent reccomendations.

[F1Dryvr]

Oh and dont forget to use a pre oiler!

[BBRTuning]

Use non-synthetic non-detergent or break-in oil initially. Start up engine immediately (I recommend NOT "priming" the engine by cranking so you don't end up pushing all the assembly lube out before you let it do its job). High idle it ~1500 RPM until fully warm (oil and coolant) and let it run once fully warmed up for about 10-15 additional minutes. Shut down and let cool completely (overnight ideally). Not a bad idea to change oil/filter at this time. Then, do another high idle warmup on the dyno, and start immediately start varying RPM/load, progressively going to higher loads and RPMs, always allowing the engine to coast down fully in gear each time. For example, 3k at 10% throttle, then to 4k at 15%, then4500 at 25%, etc. You want to eventually reach full load and maybe 2/3 of max RPM within 15-20 minutes of running on the dyno. At this point the engine will be fully broken in. Change the oil/filter again, and tune it and send it.

This is how any engine with aftermarket pistons or any race engine should be broken in unless your engine builder specifically says otherwise. Do NOT drive the car around gently for 500+ miles, this is possibly the worst thing you can do. I have done this style dyno break-in with countless engines and have not had issues with ring seat or oil burning, etc. My S54 (JE pistons/Carillo rods) has 40k of mostly canyon/track miles, broken in this way and doesn't burn any oil.

[SteelGreyM]

Use non-synthetic non-detergent or break-in oil initially. Start up engine immediately (I recommend NOT "priming" the engine by cranking so you don't end up pushing all the assembly lube out before you let it do its job). High idle it ~1500 RPM until fully warm (oil and coolant) and let it run once fully warmed up for about 10-15 additional minutes. Shut down and let cool completely (overnight ideally). Not a bad idea to change oil/filter at this time. Then, do another high idle warmup on the dyno, and start immediately start varying RPM/load, progressively going to higher loads and RPMs, always allowing the engine to coast down fully in gear each time. For example, 3k at 10% throttle, then to 4k at 15%, then4500 at 25%, etc. You want to eventually reach full load and maybe 2/3 of max RPM within 15-20 minutes of running on the dyno. At this point the engine will be fully broken in. Change the oil/filter again, and tune it and send it.

This is how any engine with aftermarket pistons or any race engine should be broken in unless your engine builder specifically says otherwise. Do NOT drive the car around gently for 500+ miles, this is possibly the worst thing you can do. I have done this style dyno break-in with countless engines and have not had issues with ring seat or oil burning, etc. My S54 (JE pistons/Carillo rods) has 40k of mostly canyon/track miles, broken in this way and doesn't burn any oil.

Thanks for the detailed response. This makes the most sense to me. Increasing load and pressure to get the rings seated quickly. Although it brings up the question of why BMW wants you to do an easier break in (1200 miles).

1)What specific break in oil did you use?
2)After I drain the oil overnight i'd assume I toss in some more break in oil?
3)Id go back to 10w-60 after the dyno tuning then right?
4) Can I just drive my car to the dyno after the first oil change? Should I be doing the varying RPM stuff on the way over? Or should I just get a tow...


Does this look correct?
1) First start. High idle and hold it for 10-15 minutes/until fully warm. Shut it off
2) Drain oil. Let it cool completely.
3) Get to the dyno
4) High idle warmup
5)3k @ 10% throttle - let it coast. repeat a few times.
6)4k @ 15% throttle - let it coast. repeat a few times.
7)4.5k @ 25% throttle - let it coast. repeat a few times.
8)5k @ 40% throttle - let it coast repeat a few times
9)5.5k @ 50% throttle - let it coast. repeat a few times.
10) oil change to 10w-60?
11)Contact my guy Hassan and get er tuned

[jbfrancis3]

That guy only did head gasket and rod bearings which don't really require break in. Im trying to correctly seat fresh piston rings.

Well said

[SteelGreyM]

Spoke to Hassan and he recommended just following BMWs break in.

So frustrating that there’s so many different answers. The one that most high performance and top engine builder gave me though is the dyno answer. So that’s the one I’ll be going with. Progressive load and varying RPM.

The answer @bbktuning gave me was closest to the one recommended by all these people except they all noted one difference. During that first start up dont just high idle at 1500ish but vary RPM a bit to be sure your fuel trims are right. Either way this seems to be the most popular answer. Thanks everybody. Glad to have finally gotten a good solution.

[jvit27]

Spoke to Hassan and he recommended just following BMWs break in.

So frustrating that there’s so many different answers. The one that most high performance and top engine builder gave me though is the dyno answer. So that’s the one I’ll be going with. Progressive load and varying RPM.

The answer @bbktuning gave me was closest to the one recommended by all these people except they all noted one difference. During that first start up dont just high idle at 1500ish but vary RPM a bit to be sure your fuel trims are right. Either way this seems to be the most popular answer. Thanks everybody. Glad to have finally gotten a good solution.

You need cylinder pressure to fully seat piston rings. That's why increasing rpm/load is important. Doing so methodically is what builds heat in the other components to help 'cure' the metal during intial expansion & contraction (cool down is equally as important) because the different alloys will not all do so at the same rate.

These people who stick to 500,1000,1200, 2000(!) mile break-ins are idiots. Engines are firing at thousands of times per second, and tolerances are very precise in modern engines so it's not even about the engine. Generally speaking, BMW's break-in guidelines are for NEW cars which have new brakes, clutches, gears, tire mold release compound, cooling systems, seals etc etc etc which all need to be heat cycled in their own regards as well.

[T-Rex]

Use non-synthetic non-detergent or break-in oil initially. Start up engine immediately (I recommend NOT "priming" the engine by cranking so you don't end up pushing all the assembly lube out before you let it do its job). High idle it ~1500 RPM until fully warm (oil and coolant) and let it run once fully warmed up for about 10-15 additional minutes. Shut down and let cool completely (overnight ideally). Not a bad idea to change oil/filter at this time. Then, do another high idle warmup on the dyno, and start immediately start varying RPM/load, progressively going to higher loads and RPMs, always allowing the engine to coast down fully in gear each time. For example, 3k at 10% throttle, then to 4k at 15%, then4500 at 25%, etc. You want to eventually reach full load and maybe 2/3 of max RPM within 15-20 minutes of running on the dyno. At this point the engine will be fully broken in. Change the oil/filter again, and tune it and send it.

This is how any engine with aftermarket pistons or any race engine should be broken in unless your engine builder specifically says otherwise. Do NOT drive the car around gently for 500+ miles, this is possibly the worst thing you can do. I have done this style dyno break-in with countless engines and have not had issues with ring seat or oil burning, etc. My S54 (JE pistons/Carillo rods) has 40k of mostly canyon/track miles, broken in this way and doesn't burn any oil.

This is outstanding advice. I hope this gets stickied.

[thegenius46m]

What do you all recommend for a built head and new cams and followers in terms of break in oil and procedure? Bottom end is original but in incredible shape so this was just a complete top end rebuild with everything brand new.

Was planning to run a break in oil from my shop (which I think is like 5w-30 equivalent?) for 100 miles then change the oil and change it one more time at 500 miles before tuning on the dyno.

Since I’m not seating rings, my machinist said just take it easy (4k rpm and under ) for 500 miles and DO NOT idle. Sound about right?