How to extract mangled manifold stud?

[Cubieman]

So I tried double nutting this stud, then slotted the front, then ruined the threads by using vice grips, bad decisions led to this situation and I know that.
Before I start reading about how to remove an S54 engine could anyone give me any tips or tools that may work for this mangled stud?
The stud is the type with the etorx end/shoulder. There is enough threads left to run a bolt right up the shoulder somewhat securely, but the majority of the threads are toast.
Most stud pullers I see in the local stores look too large to fit.
This stud was installed about 8 months ago, then removed last weekend and re-installed but the stud didn't go all the way in, I went to remove it and accidentally used one size too large etorx which rounded off the end. I have since made this worse and worse. Its REALLY in there, my buddy put it in and likely went too tight, I very much regret my decision making as far as letting another person convince me to take some of the studs out to facilitate easier installation of the headers.

The way I see it the only viable option would be to have a nut welded to the stud and try it, if that doesn't work I guess it's engine out for a proper drill/tap. Wow.

[Tbonem3]

Has it been soaking in penetrant? You can try heat too. Maybe drill a hole, perpendicularly, that's half the diameter of the stud and slot an icepick or punch and use that to turn it CC? Hole would need to be large enough to accommodate a piece of metal rod (or icepick or punch) that's not so thin that you just end up bending it.

[WOLFN8TR]

Ya soak it with some PB Blaster over night. I would heat the area around it before trying to remove it. I’ve used these Craftsman extractors in situations like this with success. I would trim 1/4” off the tip with a deemed first.

[eacmen]

I have not used this on an exhaust stud but this tool worked well on stuck wheel studs.

GEARWRENCH 1/2" Drive Stud Extractor - 1708DD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CODE0W/

might need a smaller version tho.


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[Cubieman]

Ya soak it with some PB Blaster over night. I would heat the area around it before trying to remove it. I’ve used these Craftsman extractors in situations like this with success. I would trim 1/4” off the tip with a deemed first.

How much heat would I want to apply? MAP gas is the best I've got as far as BTU's. I am not trying to get this thing red hot am I? Also I imagine the best place to heat would be around the area where the stud meets the block, is this correct?
I found an independent enigne builder today and he said that he would heat it up then melt candle wax into the threads, turn it clockwise, then counterclockwise.

[eacmen]

How much heat would I want to apply? MAP gas is the best I've got as far as BTU's. I am not trying to get this thing red hot am I? Also I imagine the best place to heat would be around the area where the stud meets the block, is this correct?
I found an independent enigne builder today and he said that he would heat it up then melt candle wax into the threads, turn it clockwise, then counterclockwise.

MAPP gas probably a good 40 seconds or so around the manifold and base of the stud. Keep the torch moving, don't keep it in one place.

With mapp it won't get it red hot like a real oxy torch.

Be careful as some penetrants are flammable.


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[WOLFN8TR]

Map gas gets hotter than propane. Ya heat around the stud as much as possible, it doesn’t need to be red hot. Like I said before use some PB Blaster and soak it overnight. That stuff works great, I used it to remove a seized glow plug in my Diesel engine block.

[gabylonfive]

i've used this extractor on previous header jobs with a 100% success rate - it will bite down on the stud harder than any vice grip will. If it's really stubborn then adding some heat to the mix should help.

[Cubieman]

i've used this extractor on previous header jobs with a 100% success rate - it will bite down on the stud harder than any vice grip will. If it's really stubborn then adding some heat to the mix should help.

I bought one of those today, the one I found locally is huge and I don't think it will fit, but hopefully I can find something that will. I really don't want to have to pull the engine for a drill/tap, I can't imagine getting that done correctly with the engine in. Just so bummed currently about this.

[Zack]

A method I have used to great success is to Weld a nut to the stud, this heats the stud up helping to release it. Then simply wrench it out.

[Flat-Six]

Common on 911 exhaust manifold studs, been there many times. Heat (Map) with stud extractor. I've also welded a a nut and tool to the stud. Start with heat and extractor. All as stated above....

[Phoenix///M3]

That extractor should work. Also Kroil > PB Blaster by miles.

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[Cubieman]

So.....I broke it, basically flush. Is this an engine out situation?

[eacmen]

So.....I broke it, basically flush. Is this an engine out situation?

You might be able to raise it up enough to get a drill on it without fully removing it.


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[heinzboehmer]

You might also have enough space to get a right angle drill in there. Get some left hand drill bits too