VANOS Rebuild

[TR_Beastmode]

I’m planning on starting the rebuild and doing a valve adjustment here in a couple months so I’ve started putting together a part and tool list. Gonna go with Beisan and replace the exhaust hub and oil pump disc, install their anti rattle kit, and replace my upper timing chain guide with theirs. I want to replace the vanos oil line as well, and I’m eyeing the one Chase Bays sells. For the valve adjustment, I’m planning on going with FCP euros Wiseco shim kit.

Im gonna hold off on ordering the Vanos solenoid and valve block until I remove them and get a good look.

Biggest thing I can think of that I’m missing is a timing tool kit, and I really don’t want to spend $275 on the one Dr Vanos sells. Any recommendations on an alternative would be appreciated greatly.

Please let me know anything you’d recommend I do differently, or if there’s anything else I should do while I’m in there.

[Cubieman]

The genuine timing tool is $190 and Crank lock pin is $42.

I would buy those, if you want to save money maybe find a cheaper aftermarket crank pin but I would use the real deal timing kit or rent one off this forum.

Stick with YOUR original oil pump disc, either have it machined with two new holes OR get the VAC hub with oversized tabs.

I wouldn't recommend swapping out this part, just me.

[Slideways]

If the original hub is not broken, reuse it and just get the pump disc drilled for smaller holes. Getting a replacement hub is not always necessary.

Rent the OE tools.

Skip the rattle kit if the engine has had regular oil changes, no VANOS rattle noise and sub 200k miles.

I'd reuse the factory VANOS line - there is a method on how to install it without stressing the line.

[beemer_guy]

Get 2 of the Wiseco shim kits, sometimes people run out and end up needing a 2nd. I actually went overboard and ordered 3 since there were no records of my car every having the valves adjusted aside from the first inspection, ironically I ended up only using one, but that was because I measured every single shim and charted the layout so I swapped shims around frequently. Make sure you have the magnetic shim tool, it's pretty cheap and very handy, although one of my shims was very stuck so the magnet came off the tool. I super-glued it back on and had no further issues.

I ordered a factory VANOS line as well, I looked into the aftermarket options, and figured the updated line with the 2nd bracket would be just fine. When I pulled my line out it looked perfectly fine so I'm keeping it as a spare. Also, every tutorial I saw regarding the VANOS line had them saying just tighten the line to the accumulator in the car as there is no way to torque it, which is a lazy excuse, it was actually easy to remove the entire line while attached to the pressure accumulator by routing it downwards after removing the accumulator from the bracket. The accumulator itself has a spot to counter-hold with a wrench so you can properly torque the new line down, then it's just a matter of threading the line carefully back upwards. It is a little weird with the space but you'll get the hang of it, and you can practice with the old line so as not to damage the new one.

I would also recommend getting the VANOS filter kit, it's a pretty easy swap.

Like the others have said, I've heard there are a lot of fitment issues with aftermarket tools, so genuine is the way to go, it would be worth it to buy them from FCP Euro or rent them from someone here. The last thing you want is to be deep in the job then get stuck waiting because you ordered the wrong part and have to wait potentially a week or so depending on availability of these tools.

[PSUEng]

Great discussion here, thanks to OP for posting. I'm piecing together my valve adjust/VANOS job as well. Agree on factory timing tool and crank pin, that's what I'm going to get.

My own questions:

1] Do we need an extra timing tool pin 83300491086?
2] Necessary to replace timing chain guide bolt?
3] In the case of replacing sprocket bolts, what is the preferred tool to properly torque the bolts? 1/4" crow foot on some sort of small torque wrench?
4] Replace upper timing chain guide?
5] Can VANOS line be replaced (esp. with Gen part) with Supersprint V1 headers in place? I thought I discovered a post saying this is difficult with stock headers.

[PSUEng]

The genuine timing tool is $190 and Crank lock pin is $42.

Stick with YOUR original oil pump disc, either have it machined with two new holes OR get the VAC hub with oversized tabs.

I wouldn't recommend swapping out this part, just me.

I've heard other say the same, yet Beisan sells drilled pump disks on core exchange. What's your thought on why to keep your original disk? I personally plan to get the VAC hub and install a completely new VANOS unit I have on the shelf.

[deedz]

I am also planning on doing a vanos rebuilt - Beisan seems to be the way to go, better price than anyone else

[Cubieman]

I've heard other say the same, yet Beisan sells drilled pump disks on core exchange. What's your thought on why to keep your original disk? I personally plan to get the VAC hub and install a completely new VANOS unit I have on the shelf.

I had an issue with a Beisan manufactured (aftermarket) pump disc that didn't provide sufficient oil pressure, as did another member.

This was 5-6 years ago and they have since stopped manufacturing their own discs in favor of re-drilling OEM discs.

Maybe my advice is incorrect, but I would still rather have my original pump disc that has wore with my vehicle's vanos pump shaft as opposed to one off another vehicle.

Maybe there is no significant wear due to the oil film between those two parts, but thats just my opinion, right or wrong.

[~CSL~]

Beastmode - I want to add to what the guys above mentioned about the oil pump disc. I have recently been dealing with an induced Vanos rattle (not the usual one) that was created after service. At some point I will do a full write up, but my Vanos as been apart 4x in the past eight weeks...

Regarding the oil pump disc, keep the original and what I would do is mark the piston and try to match the piston to its bore BEFORE you knock them out (Sharpie and dots). Essentially, you want that thing going back in in the exact configuration you took it apart. At some point when I write up my saga, I'll post the vibration analysis data that shows why I believe it matters.

I till will be ripping mine apart agin this winter (for the 5th time). Mine currently has all the upgraded goodies, VAC Exhaust hub, and an off idle rattle once the system and oil heat up...

Best Regrads,

[ejendow]

I had an issue with a Beisan manufactured (aftermarket) pump disc that didn't provide sufficient oil pressure, as did another member.

This was 5-6 years ago and they have since stopped manufacturing their own discs in favor of re-drilling OEM discs.

Maybe my advice is incorrect, but I would still rather have my original pump disc that has wore with my vehicle's vanos pump shaft as opposed to one off another vehicle.

Maybe there is no significant wear due to the oil film between those two parts, but thats just my opinion, right or wrong.

Is the idea here to keep your original pump disc, but get an aftermarket hub that has bigger tabs (VAC)?

[~CSL~]

Is the idea here to keep your original pump disc, but get an aftermarket hub that has bigger tabs (VAC)?

Yes, assuming that your original pump disc isn't worn or damaged, you can do what I did and install the VAC Hub, which fits the hub tabs to the OEM holes to 0,15mm, eliminating the hammering and shear problem caused by original design fit. For reference, the OEM holes are 10,70mm - I used a hole gauge to measure mine, and they were spot on (10,69 and 10,68).

[Obioban]

Probably better to not get the VAC version (of anything), but generally, yes- if your pump disk and hub are still good, keep both and get the additional set of (smaller) holes drilled in the pump disk.

[TR_Beastmode]

Great discussion here, thanks to OP for posting. I'm piecing together my valve adjust/VANOS job as well. Agree on factory timing tool and crank pin, that's what I'm going to get.

My own questions:

1] Do we need an extra timing tool pin 83300491086?
2] Necessary to replace timing chain guide bolt?
3] In the case of replacing sprocket bolts, what is the preferred tool to properly torque the bolts? 1/4" crow foot on some sort of small torque wrench?
4] Replace upper timing chain guide?
5] Can VANOS line be replaced (esp. with Gen part) with Supersprint V1 headers in place? I thought I discovered a post saying this is difficult with stock headers.

I am ordering an extra timing pin, I believe the kit only comes with one. And that is the part number I believe, it’s the one I’m gonna order. I havent seen anything in regards to the chain tensioner bolt, think it’s safe to reuse. For the upper guide, I think it’s a less common failure point but if you’re already in there it may not be a bad idea to replace it. I see it on FCP euro for $70.99. Others will have more insight on that specifically.

[sapote]

I am ordering an extra timing pin, I believe the kit only comes with one. .

don't waste money on the 2nd pin as you only set the timing for one cam each time, so one pin is enough.

[TR_Beastmode]

Thank you guys for your all your input. I’ve spent the last couple hours diving deeper into some things. I’m gonna explain things like you all don’t know what I’m talking about so you can follow my thought process, I’m not insulting you lol.

1) Sprocket bolts and Hub bolts: Beisan sells a kit with both bolt sets, for both intake and exhaust sides. The hub bolts are blue and “tell future technicians the Vanos has been worked on”. Plus, them being a cool blue color adds 5 HP at least. Hub bolts are torqued incrementally from 5Nm -> 7 Nm -> 10Nm -> 14Nm. The sprocket bolts are an “upgrade” over the stock BMW T30 torx bolts. Their procedure doc has torque specs for the BMW bolts (9 ft-lb/12Nm), but not for the replacement bolts. This makes no sense to me lol. Anyone know what those torque specs are? Or should I just remove the stock bolts, add loctite, and retorque them?

2) The upper timing chain tensioner bolt has a crush washer. Part #: 07119963342. This should be replaced when changing the upper tensioner. Beisans procedure doc mentions replacing the crankshaft chain tensioner crush washer as well. Part #: 07119963418. I’m assuming this is another name for the lower chain tensioner? Is this something I would even need to do if I’m not changing the lower tensioner?

3) Exhaust and Intake hubs have diaphragm springs and plates inside them. Beisan mentions replacing these with S62 parts because they’re an improvement. Is this something I should do?

4) VAC hub versus Beisan hub: VAC hubs are made from a stronger alloy and the drive tabs are bigger. Bigger tabs reduce tab-to-disc clearance to 0.2mm on a stock disc. Beisan goes the other way, they drill the new holes smaller. Their hub has reinforced tabs, and the disc is machined to match them. They claim a clearance of 0.05mm when a Beisan hub and disc are paired together. I guess if you’re looking to replace both the hub and disc, Beisan is the way to go. If your disc is within spec and not messed up, then VAC would be the way to go.

5) Chase Bays Vanos oil line. Factory line is $330-350 everywhere I can find it. Aftermarket lines, rouge engineering, bimmerworld, chase bays, are all like $60. Are any of the aftermarket lines good alternatives? Or just keep my factory line and replace the washers? I’ve got a very minor oil leak and I suspect it’s the oil line. That’s why I’m considering replacing it in the first place.

bonus point) Beisan used AI to edit/write their procedures and it’s infuriating. They left a lot of the AI wording in their docs. “Here’s that section rewritten with more synonyms for the word “note”!” And a whole section will be repeated. It’s so confusing to follow in some parts.