Time Sert FCAB bolt pockets

[ZHPizza]

I have repaired two of them with cheap helicoils. Not sure why people are afraid of them.

This is specifically the cheap kit I have

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018LMAXFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-B6JFb4YZ4S4N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[F1Dryvr]

I would consider a helicoil on a more nonstructural part of the car.... for this area, assuming it’s possible and isn’t weakening the insert, the time sert is what I’d rather do here...

[ZHPizza]

Helicoils are stronger than the original threads when done correctly (fully threaded into the hole, ~1 turn past the surface). Nothing against timeserts - they're wonderful for a fastener that is frequently removed - just a lot more cost/labor/material removed with them.

[SliM3]

Heli-coils man, stay away from timeserts for structural components especially if you feel there's not enough material to support it.
We use heli's on commercial aircraft all the time.

[Mspir3d]

I helicoiled one this summer. It’s still holding strong.

[eacmen]

Yeah there is no issue using helicoil for this application. Personally I just prefer the timesert tooling versus helicoil. But being an insert it requires more meat to drill out so for this application I think helicoil might be the preferred method.


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[F1Dryvr]

Good info, thanks all for the input

[F1Dryvr]

Happy to report the Time sert worked out fine in this location, no cutting out the floor and welding. Install was straight forward, the drill takes about half the thickness of the threaded insert, but it seems easily stiff enough. Time will tell if it holds up to repeated torque stress.

Ill take the opportunity to bash bimmerworld again for their track cab fcabs which just plain dont fit. They dont fit over the frame section and once installed the underside reinforcement doesnt line up with the bolt holes AND the bolt hole doesnt line up with the reinforcement either. I tried too hard to get the frame bolts for the fcab to pull the housing down but it ended up ruining my threads, and then re-tapping took too much material away to get the torque back.

I used the 20mm time sert here. Seems like theres plenty of material left after the drilling and counterboring. 1st is after drilling threads and counterboring, 2nd pic is time sert installed.

[gabylonfive]

Happy to report the Time sert worked out fine in this location, no cutting out the floor and welding. Install was straight forward, the drill takes about half the thickness of the threaded insert, but it seems easily stiff enough. Time will tell if it holds up to repeated torque stress.

Ill take the opportunity to bash bimmerworld again for their track cab fcabs which just plain dont fit. They dont fit over the frame section and once installed the underside reinforcement doesnt line up with the bolt holes AND the bolt hole doesnt line up with the reinforcement either. I tried too hard to get the frame bolts for the fcab to pull the housing down but it ended up ruining my threads, and then re-tapping took too much material away to get the torque back.

I used the 20mm time sert here. Seems like theres plenty of material left after the drilling and counterboring. 1st is after drilling threads and counterboring, 2nd pic is time sert installed.

glad to hear this worked out for you. I actually just had the same issue with a set of bimmerworld trackcabs - i just COULD NOT get them lined up to the dowels no matter how much I tried. This was with the control arms off the car too, so I was assuming it would have been a straightforward installation. I messed up the threads on the forward threaded dowel on the driver side and luckily was able to chase the threads and save them. I actually contacted BW about this fitment issue and their advice was to stick a screwdriver through the trackcab and into the alignment dowel to lever it into place. that's essentially what ruined the threads in the first place so I decided to cut bait and quit trying at that point.

I decided to just get a set of OE FCABS from FCP Euro and will replace them as needed for the rest of the life of the car - got those installed in literally 20 minutes.

[F1Dryvr]

Yep, i now have turner monoball with the oe lolipop.

[eacmen]

The track cab needs to go further up on the control arm to easily line it up with the dowels. You won't be able to get it all the way on with just your hands/arms.

I used a special fcab tool to "press" the track cab onto the control arm enough so it lined up.


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[Maxima SE]

Happy to report the Time sert worked out fine in this location, no cutting out the floor and welding. Install was straight forward, the drill takes about half the thickness of the threaded insert, but it seems easily stiff enough. Time will tell if it holds up to repeated torque stress.

Ill take the opportunity to bash bimmerworld again for their track cab fcabs which just plain dont fit. They dont fit over the frame section and once installed the underside reinforcement doesnt line up with the bolt holes AND the bolt hole doesnt line up with the reinforcement either. I tried too hard to get the frame bolts for the fcab to pull the housing down but it ended up ruining my threads, and then re-tapping took too much material away to get the torque back.

I used the 20mm time sert here. Seems like theres plenty of material left after the drilling and counterboring. 1st is after drilling threads and counterboring, 2nd pic is time sert installed.

Which kit did you use? Oddly enough I have the same issue on both sides (with the top pockets).... Do you think its a poor design by BMW and these things wear down after a couple FCAB jobs and potentially over torqueing?

[Tbonem3]

Sounds like you should just do a helicoil

[Maxima SE]

Sounds like you should just do a helicoil

which means I have to take everything apart all over again... uhh !

[F1Dryvr]

The track cab needs to go further up on the control arm to easily line it up with the dowels. You won't be able to get it all the way on with just your hands/arms.

I used a special fcab tool to "press" the track cab onto the control arm enough so it lined up.


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i feel like it should be easier than this…

also at least in this location taking a place where suspension component is allowed to move and then making it so it cant move in any direction is probably not the best idea. The bearing that allows articulation without flex makes more sense to me.