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    #46
    Originally posted by e46mpwrd View Post

    I use an 5000SLX and it fits fine. 🤷
    Same here.


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      #47
      Originally posted by e46mpwrd View Post

      I use an 5000SLX and it fits fine. 🤷
      it may fit fine for you but i know for a fact even if you put the rubber blocks at the opposite ends of the as far as they will go, they do not touch all 4 e46 jack points at same time. you either sit on the front or rear but not both at same time. i've borrowed quick jack SLX models from a friend and had that issue when i was doing work on a few e46s. i still managed to do complete rear end drop outs and motor swaps but i didnt like not being on all 4 jack points perfectly simultaneously

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        #48
        ok looks like i stand corrected. i was using a 3500 SLX which has a max lift point spread of 50.5 inches and frame length of 62.5 inches but the 5000 slx has a max lift point spread of 60 inches and frame length of 70 inches .. nice!

        carry on fellas

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          #49
          Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post

          it may fit fine for you but i know for a fact even if you put the rubber blocks at the opposite ends of the as far as they will go, they do not touch all 4 e46 jack points at same time. you either sit on the front or rear but not both at same time. i've borrowed quick jack SLX models from a friend and had that issue when i was doing work on a few e46s. i still managed to do complete rear end drop outs and motor swaps but i didnt like not being on all 4 jack points perfectly simultaneously
          I do not have this issue with mine. Always checked all point before getting under the car. They have always been in contact with the quickjack at all times. Rubber blocks are usually a couple inches from the ends.

          edit: nextelbuddy all good ✌
          Last edited by e46mpwrd; 11-30-2020, 08:05 AM. Reason: Posted to quick, didn't see new post above.
          '06 IB/BLK 6SPD PN66072

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            #50
            Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
            ok looks like i stand corrected. i was using a 3500 SLX which has a max lift point spread of 50.5 inches and frame length of 62.5 inches but the 5000 slx has a max lift point spread of 60 inches and frame length of 70 inches .. nice!

            carry on fellas
            All good. The 5000SLX works well even for a lowered track car. If you're really slammed you might need shorter rubber blocks. With how our car is raked I use taller blocks on one and and shorter blocks on the other.


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              #51
              I see $1,099, pricing must have been just for yesterday.

              Originally posted by robgill View Post
              Home Depot now at $998

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                #52
                Originally posted by 8000RPM View Post
                I see $1,099, pricing must have been just for yesterday.


                Yeah deal expired at midnight yesterday

                Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                Youtube DIYs and more

                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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                  #53
                  I am not dissuading anyone, but I talked myself out of it (for now, forever?).

                  -I recently (in the last year) upgraded my jack stands and got a long/slim jack (cost here).
                  -Getting the front of the car after driving up on home-built ramps (scrap wood from Home Depot) with my jack is 4 pumps (manual work, sure, not pressing a button). Rear is a bit more work because the handle doesn't have much travel between the bumper and the ground after the front is up, but still fine.
                  -You can't leave the quickjack on the floor and drive over it (like a speed bump), so you have to either store it on the side of the garage somewhere, or push the 2 lifts close together so they fit under the car. Then I thought you have to get the hoses/wires/etc stored somewhere where I wont run them over in case I'm shifted over by a bit and clip something with a tire. Then to use the jack, I have to either set it up (if stored somewhere on side of the garage, not full assembly, I get it) or get under the car to fish out the 2 halves to reposition them under the lift points, get all the wires/hoses untangled.
                  -I'm a really tall dude, working on cars I have to get to a lot of weird positions, more than just using a dolly to slide from front or rear only
                  -Kinda related to point before, I will lose side access on both sides (mainly for my body, not necessarily most parts/tools)
                  -$1000 I could spend elsewhere

                  Again, these are just gripes in MY head.



                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



                  Last edited by mrgizmo04; 11-30-2020, 02:07 PM.
                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                    I am not dissuading anyone, but I talked myself out of it (for now, forever?).

                    -I recently (in the last year) upgraded my jack stands and got a long/slim jack (cost here).

                    which long slim jack did you get? The schwaben one?
                    ‘02 LSB M3 (11k original miles)
                    ’03 Oxford Green M3 (Turbo’d)

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by Hallerhan View Post

                      which long slim jack did you get? The schwaben one?
                      Arcan xl2t

                      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                      Youtube DIYs and more

                      All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                      PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                        I am not dissuading anyone, but I talked myself out of it (for now, forever?).

                        -I recently (in the last year) upgraded my jack stands and got a long/slim jack (cost here).
                        -Getting the front of the car after driving up on home-built ramps (scrap wood from Home Depot) with my jack is 4 pumps (manual work, sure, not pressing a button). Rear is a bit more work because the handle doesn't have much travel between the bumper and the ground after the front is up, but still fine.
                        -You can't leave the quickjack on the floor and drive over it (like a speed bump), so you have to either store it on the side of the garage somewhere, or push the 2 lifts close together so they fit under the car. Then I thought you have to get the hoses/wires/etc stored somewhere where I wont run them over in case I'm shifted over by a bit and clip something with a tire. Then to use the jack, I have to either set it up (if stored somewhere on side of the garage, not full assembly, I get it) or get under the car to fish out the 2 halves to reposition them under the lift points, get all the wires/hoses untangled.
                        -I'm a really tall dude, working on cars I have to get to a lot of weird positions, more than just using a dolly to slide from front or rear only
                        -Kinda related to point before, I will lose side access on both sides (mainly for my body, not necessarily most parts/tools)
                        -$1000 I could spend elsewhere

                        Again, these are just gripes in MY head.



                        Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


                        FWIW I store the quickjack underneath the center of the car 99 percent of the time and drive over them (not on top of them!). No issues yet and I just leave the hoses hooked up.

                        With our BW front splitter its a major PITA to jack up the front even with wood and low profile jack. Quickjack is a much better solution for me especially when doing things like setting ride height etc.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                          #57
                          I leave mine on the floor at all times, slide them together after I'm done, and never disconnect the hoses. Nor do I drive over the hoses, they are long enough you don't have to.

                          The main selling point for me was I don't like being under jacks. Dumb I know, but me feeling better about being underneath the car actually leads to me working on the car with greater frequency.
                          3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                            #58
                            Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                            FWIW I store the quickjack underneath the center of the car 99 percent of the time and drive over them (not on top of them!). No issues yet and I just leave the hoses hooked up.

                            With our BW front splitter its a major PITA to jack up the front even with wood and low profile jack. Quickjack is a much better solution for me especially when doing things like setting ride height etc.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            I just use 2 jacks. Jack up the side a little bit then slide a low profile 3 ton and jack up the front end.

                            My splitter has been as low as 2” off the ground. Which on a side note doesn’t turn out well.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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