Originally posted by mrgizmo04
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Yeah I used to watch the oil dot like you described, but then used the tool to get the lights more in sync. The lights are there to tell me that it's good to start ripping, so seemed off that the dot below didn't reach the desired temp yet.Originally posted by Jimbo's M View Post
Of course. Back when this forum started IIRC in 2003, the general consensus was to do what I described and it made perfect sense to me. I treated it as gospel and still do...original bearings and all (well, besides the two SA replacements).
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All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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It does not warm up enough from no-load rotation to really make any difference. Even the engine oil takes forever to warm up while idling.Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View PostSide note for fun, tranny input shaft is spinning and warming up as the engine idles, so the only thing that is not getting warmed up is the diff without driving.
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Yes it'll take hours, like I said, fun side note.Originally posted by Pavlo View Post
It does not warm up enough from no-load rotation to really make any difference. Even the engine oil takes forever to warm up while idling.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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