SMG Paddle Shifter Feel Improvement?

[robgill]

I'm new to SMG and recently got my rebuild project back on the road. One thing I would really like to improve is the feel of the paddle shifters. I'm not sure if it us just mine or if this is standard but there isn't much positive feedback when the paddle is pulled, just a mushy feel. Would be great to have some type of solid click. I've considered replacing the switches (part # 32347833040), but $300 is a little steep for no change... Is this common? I searched around for aftermarket solutions but just found paddles, not switches. The switch is pretty basic, I'm sure you could modify and swap in something from another car/model.

Other than that, I'm really liking the SMG. I think its a pretty cool period specific tech that adds a lot to the driving experience. Plus it's nice to have the auto around town.

[S3diment]

I’ve heard this feels amazing with the magnetic shifters. Obviously a ton of money and everyone has an opinion on running this on the street.

https://www.kmpdrivetrain.com/product/bmw-e46-racing-wheel/

[r4dr]

Other than that, I'm really liking the SMG. I thinks its a pretty cool period specific tech that adds a lot to the driving experience. Plus it's nice to have the auto around town.

Same. I got my SMG car expecting to swap it, but I really liked the gearbox once I flashed the CSL stuff onto the SMG ECU. The original programming gave it a worse rep than it deserved.

[heinzboehmer]

Any idea what the bracket is made out of? If it's magnetic, you could add a magnet to the paddle tab that pushes on the button.



There's probably not enough space for a magnet between the tab and bracket, but you could just recess it into the tab by drilling a small hole here:



You'd want to make sure the magnet is in direct contact with the bracket when in the unpressed position for the most clickiness.

Actually, even if the bracket isn't magnetic, there's probably enough space to attach a thin piece of metal to the bracket so that the magnet has something to grab onto. If not, you might need to recess that into the bracket. Just be careful not to use a magnet that's too strong, otherwise it might end up damaging the tab on the paddle over time.

The switches would still perform the same, but I would imagine that the feel would improve substantially. It would require slightly more effort to press, but the paddle would firmly latch in and out of the unpressed position. Very similar idea to what's shown in this video:

[eacmen]

I’ve heard this feels amazing with the magnetic shifters. Obviously a ton of money and everyone has an opinion on running this on the street.

https://www.kmpdrivetrain.com/product/bmw-e46-racing-wheel/

I have the kmp wheel and highly recommend for track car. For a street car I would maybe do the same wheel but not use the QD so you don’t have this coil wire hanging down and just wire it through the clock spring. But you do lose some of the buttons on the wheel.

I believe you can buy the switches from KMP directly but mounting them is a different issue.

in all honesty i would look at sim racing paddle switches and adapt them. Many of them feel amazing and a fraction of the cost. There are also some 3d printed adapters that bolt onto the back of paddles and with a few rare earth magnets you can get a *similar* feel but it’s not really the same.

[timmo]

On my old FSAE team we ran two neo magnets, one in the 3D printed base and one in the aluminium paddle. It feels super-satisfying to shift and makes that "ca-chunk" sound when you pull on it.

It would be a pretty cool project to make your own paddle assembly!

[poss]

I'm I've considered replacing the switches (part # 32347833040), but $300 is a little steep for no change... Is this common? I searched around for aftermarket solutions but just found paddles, not switches. The switch is pretty basic, I'm sure you could modify and swap in something from another car/model.

Other than that, I'm really liking the SMG. I thinks its a pretty cool period specific tech that adds a lot to the driving experience. Plus it's nice to have the auto around town.

The micro switches themselves are a few bucks from electronics suppliers such as Farnell. I bought a bunch thinking one of them was faulty as upshifts became intermittent - however, it turned out to be the connector from the switch to circuit board needed cleaning/reseating. I'd suggest giving that a try first. The microswitches do have a tactile 'click' that is enhanced by replacing the plastic paddles with metal ones.

The microswitches have specially-shaped plastic cups over them which would make it non-trivial to replace them with another solution

I don't have any complaints with the paddles once you clean the wiring harness contacts, put metal paddles on, CSL flash and SMG recalibration (also relocate the SMG to reduce likelihood of failure)

Prefer it to a manual.

[S14]

Interesting Idea. I too bought my SMG car at a discount expecting to manual swap it, but I've grown quite fond of it.

I learned in the old /drive koeniggsegg series that "haptic" is the feeling that you are looking for. Your SMG paddles don't have the right haptic.

[ClevoCapri]

If you open up the switches there is a pressed steel /tin plate that sits on the switch assembly. This can fatigue with age and even split as mine was. You can replace this piece from a new switch that cost a few dollars and it restors the paddles possitive clicks when you flick through gears. I will try find some pictures of my switches.

You can see the crack in the metal plate. I was going to replace the complete switch but found just that piece the problem. Now I get good positive feel from the paddle

[eml]

+1 to what ClevoCapri said.

I, too, had that mushy feel and was already leaning towards getting entirely new switch assemblies. However, I tried disassembling the switches themselves and got to the tin plate and noticed that it was almost practically flat. If you carefully bend it again to be more dome-like and them reassemble the switch, the positive, clicky feel will return. The tin plate acts as both spring and contact.

[poss]

Here's a link to the $300 paddle microswitches - yours for a pittance from Farnell: https://au.element14.com/rafi/1-14-0...-55c5-00001622

1.14.001.503/0000


Tactile Switch, RACON 12 Series, Top Actuated, Surface Mount, Round Button, 360 gf, 100mA at 42VDC



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Image is for illustrative purposes only. Please refer to product description.

[robgill]

Same. I got my SMG car expecting to swap it, but I really liked the gearbox once I flashed the CSL stuff onto the SMG ECU. The original programming gave it a worse rep than it deserved.

I'll be installing the CSL tune on the SMG next weekend 👍. Drove it a lot this weekend and I'm loving it so this will only make it better.

Any idea what the bracket is made out of? If it's magnetic, you could add a magnet to the paddle tab that pushes on the button.

Cool idea! May have to try this on a junk year wheel.

If you open up the switches there is a pressed steel /tin plate that sits on the switch assembly. This can fatigue with age and even split as mine was. You can replace this piece from a new switch that cost a few dollars and it restors the paddles possitive clicks when you flick through gears. I will try find some pictures of my switches. You can see the crack in the metal plate. I was going to replace the complete switch but found just that piece the problem. Now I get good positive feel from the paddle

Here's a link to the $300 paddle microswitches - yours for a pittance from Farnell

Thank you!! Just found some local to me on eBay and ordered.

[poss]

I'll be installing the CSL tune on the SMG next weekend 👍. Drove it a lot this weekend and I'm loving it so this will only make it better..

So much better you'll forget all about downgrading to manual 😎

[Str8f4c3]

Here's my solution.

If you take a look between the plastic cap on the microswitch and the arm that comes off the SMG Paddle, there is a fair bit of gap. To add to this, the plastic cap needs to be pressed down a small amount before the switch is activated. This is like. 2-3mm (if that) of travel, but feels really long and mushy when you pull the paddle. So I went to home depot an picked up some washers. Can't remember the size but I think maybe m4. I glued the washer to the top of the plastic cap from the microswitch using some e6000. The washer was not only thick enough to remove the dead space between the paddle and the switch, but also add some "preload" to the switch so that the amount of travel before the switch is activated is reduced and nearly eliminated. This Made a huge difference for me, not bad for ten cents worth of hardware. I had storm SMG Paddles which also helped a bunch, but for the sake of science I swapped my stock paddles back in to see what the difference was like. It was still miles better. Hope this helps!

[eacmen]

a couple thin rare earth magnets to hold that lever might be a worthwhile mod.