Power to fuel pump but no prime (Any help please!)

[Darbshaw]

So long story short, after finishing reassembling my engine I plugged in my fuel pump fuse while the key was in position 2. This caused a spark and it has been all downhill from there.
I was at first just throwing inpa error code 1 (fuel pump relay). I replaced the relay before checking all else and still have the issue. After testing the fuel pump connector with a multimeter I am getting 12v to the fuel pump itself but I am not getting the pump to prime. I do not have a way to bench test my old pump easily so I went to replace it thinking I possibly could have fried that as well. After replacing and reinstalling my fuel pump I am still getting 0 priming from the pump on the key turn. At this point, I feel like I am out of ideas and am losing steam to just finish this rebuild off. The only thing that comes to mind is that the issue worked its way back to my DME and it's not processing any signal throwing a code to point to the relay.
I will apologize ahead of time as I am VERY rusty in electrical and just had to learn how to jump a relay this past weekend to test all this out. So please bear with me.

Newest developments:
INPA error codes 119,120,107. These all point to electric throttle control. I'm not sure if these play in at all but I guess every bit helps at this point.

My suspected issues:

DME has run into an issue and is no longer sending or receiving fuel pump control to activate it.

The missing "X" piece is interfering with something else to stop the pump from priming.

Missing ground wire connection
- I don't know how this would happen or what I could be missing especially since I already had a spark once before and there is proper power running to the fuel pump connector.

Thank you in advance for even the slightest comment or nudge in a direction. I miss this car too much and am very ready to drive her again. If someone does help me figure this out...I owe you a beer

[sapote]

S. After testing the fuel pump connector with a multimeter I am getting 12v to the fuel pump itself
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I bet you tested the connector with pump disconnected and saw 12v (it’s a floating voltage). But connect the pump back and the same test will show 0v.
I think the electronic relay still not energized and not output 12v to the pump yet.

you need to measure the relay control input pin if it has 12v with key turned on.

[Martyn]

From memory the relay and pump are switched to ground.

[Darbshaw]

I bet you tested the connector with pump disconnected and saw 12v (it’s a floating voltage). But connect the pump back and the same test will show 0v.
I think the electronic relay still not energized and not output 12v to the pump yet.

you need to measure the relay control input pin if it has 12v with key turned on.

Okay I want to make sure I’m following this correctly.

I need to test power with the pump plugged in on key turn? I’d assume the easiest way is just to weasel my probes in the back side of the connector and hope to touch metal.

Do you know off the top of your head which pin is the relay input pin? I tested these last weekend and I can’t remember which all had power.
From there:
If I am not getting power at the input pin what would be the next step from there?
If I am getting power, is there an easy way to jump the relay that way I can just test and make sure that everything should function properly if I were to replace the relay a second time? (I bought a used set off of mpartsww hoping for a cheaper and easier replacement)

Thank you!


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[Darbshaw]

From memory the relay and pump are switched to ground.

I’m sorry if it seems redundant but could you explain? Is there possibly something I missed in engine reassembly that this ground ran to?


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[Martyn]

On a UK/euro car you can get the fuel pump to prime / run manually by grounding pin 10 at the X6004.

[sapote]

OP, at the relay connector, jump from pin6 (12v un-switched) to pin2 (to pump 12v terminal) will run the pump. Pump has permanence ground wire.

Edited: pin6 and not pin8 (which is also 12v but switched)

[sapote]

From memory the relay and pump are switched to ground.

All diagrams show fuel pumps are high-side switched.

[Darbshaw]

Okay so if I’m following correctly, that is pin 10 in the X60004 inside the DME. Now I am entirely new about it and I’ll try my best to research more of this on lunch. If you don’t care to give a short explanation for that I will take it. I’ll try this out tonight


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[sapote]

OP, what is the production date of your car?

[Martyn]

Low side (ground) switched from what I can see!

[sapote]

Okay so if I’m following correctly, that is pin 10 in the X60004 inside the DME. Now I am entirely new about it and I’ll try my best to research more of this on lunch. If you don’t care to give a short explanation for that I will take it. I’ll try this out tonight


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Don't try on the DME connector as you might fry it. Why not try at the relay connector?

[Martyn]

You're not going to fry the DME by ejecting the pin from the harness and grounding it. I did the same test about 30 mins ago on my own car.

[sapote]

"Low side (ground) switched from what I can see!"
sorry I'm talking the fuel pump, not about energize the relay.

"From memory the relay and pump are switched to ground"
Pump is NOT switched to ground.

[sapote]

You're not going to fry the DME by ejecting the pin from the harness and grounding it. I did the same test about 30 mins ago on my own car.

OK, it wasn't clear if your instruction to disconnect the DME first, then ground pin10.
BTW, some model year use pin11 and others use pin 10. So watch out!