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Are Current OE Rear Subframe Bushings Improved?

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    Are Current OE Rear Subframe Bushings Improved?

    Going to change out my four RACP bushings. I’ve used poly in the past (over the decades) on several other components and learned it’s not always the best. In fact it’s mostly a scam in design over stock in some cases. Also it can deform and oval out, not rebounding well after deflection.
    Anyhow, question is are the current stock subframe bushings improved over the years. I noticed they look different on the bottom/top. Although it may just be a shipping protection/installation guide, the green area looks somewhat changed too.

    I’d like to upgrade on them, but everything out seems to be basic two-piece split replacements and nothing in a firmer stock design firmer durometer rubber.

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    Last edited by old///MFanatic; 03-26-2021, 07:41 PM.
    6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

    #2
    How about solid bushings? It's what all the cool kids are doing

    Poly is the only in-between for stock and solid.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks, yeah not sold on the solid or the Delrin versions quite yet. Not for street. I mean there’s a good deal of engineering that went into these factory mounts. The front two are different designs L and R from each other. Both are different from the rears. You can see the differences quickly. All these poly are the same mushroom design(mostly to hold in place), nothing engineered about their functioning really.

      And looking in the ETK all the factory M3 subframe bushings were revised in 3/06. So one could expect they’re even better. Unsure how many made it onto the late M3s or if they just had enough old stock.
      As we know any new bushing, be it poly or stock is going to feel better than worn bushings.
      Hoping to hear some thoughts or feedback from use.
      Click image for larger version

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      6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

      Comment


        #4
        I went from fresh OE to Poly to Solid (within 7000 miles). I won't be going back to either OE or Poly. Assuming you are reinforced then the only concern would be the NVH which is of no consequence. I think there are enough people running solid RTABs and subframe bushings that if NVH was an issue the choir would have already sung its chorus.
        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

        Comment


          #5
          Since you mention upgrades, I'll volunteer the option I went with a set made by SuperPro. Everyone is partial to the products they install of course. I'm happy and everything feels solid without added NVH, so that's why I mention. I don't know of any other members running them.

          Its amazing how many schools of thought there are around suitable replacements, varying from OEM-or-bust, to "upgrade" (define upgrade), to solid mounts.


          Whether it’s an individual part solution, a kit of all the popular suspension bushes for your car or a complete assembly, SuperPro has an extensive range of complete bushing and suspension part kit
          '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

          Comment


            #6
            If you're doing top side reinforcement, I don't see any issue with using stock bushings. If BMW had simply reinforced the mounting points from the factory, we wouldn't even be talking about any of this. Race cars would still go solid sure.
            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by oceansize View Post
              I went from fresh OE to Poly to Solid (within 7000 miles). I won't be going back to either OE or Poly. Assuming you are reinforced then the only concern would be the NVH which is of no consequence.
              Thanks for your response. If you could please elaborate what “fresh” is? I’m sure everyone could envision differently. Age/mileage/environment/use all considerations.
              Also really hoping to hear about the new revised ones. By chance were these the newest revised Genuine BMW M3/Z4M ones or previous ones.
              Thanks for your time.
              6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post
                Thanks for your response. If you could please elaborate what “fresh” is? I’m sure everyone could envision differently. Age/mileage/environment/use all considerations.
                Also really hoping to hear about the new revised ones. By chance were these the newest revised Genuine BMW M3/Z4M ones or previous ones.
                Thanks for your time.
                Sorry for the wording, brand new OE. Unfortunately I didn't put those in as this was done by the shop doing my reinforcement in October of 2017. I ran those for around two years then I put in the poly and then just a few weeks later the solids (CMP). I didn't like the polys (noisy and felt off, can't really put into words) but it seems most guys who like poly have used the AKG stuff. I don't really have any complaints about the OE bushings.

                As an aside here is Vince from Vince Bar fame referencing his personal choice for subframe bushings along with his reasoning (timestamped):







                Last edited by oceansize; 03-26-2021, 05:37 PM.
                3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just as fyi, those green tabs you see in the pic in the first post don't actually provide a "larger area" or "more stability" for the bushing. Especially in the front, where there is a large hex that the bushing inner sleeve (the silver metal part of the bushing) rests upon when everything is bolted up. That is why it is so important to do longer through bolts and cups in the front, because most of the forces are around the front studs. Also, most of the load of racp is on the 2 front mounts (see how the upper and lower control arm inner attachment points are super close to the front), so the 2 rear bushings act more as stabilizers in the compression/extension direction, but most of the critical articulation is around the 2 front mounts.

                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah actually we use to do this job at my friends old shop. Back then it was the 328s/323s that had biggest issues. TMS was pretty much the go to plates and Powerflex bushes. We’d see some of the PF bushes later and they’d oval. In fact a lot of poly bushes we’d see oval out, deform and need lubrication to keep squeaks down. Really no engineering at all to things that original parts incorporated. Front diff mount another example, that part is fairly complex, polyurethane ones just a void filler.
                    BMW has a lot of engineering dealing with vibration/harmonics. It’s hard to believe looking at design that they’d just make the top/bottom ridges a particular intricate costly way than just a larger area if it wasn’t better. Granted I’ve certainly seen parts improved upon, with trade offs ranging from minimal to large.

                    I’m hoping to gather most current info from others like you to help make decision. Sometimes ///M parts for street are the best selection, sometimes they’re not.
                    6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My tech buddy been suggesting I go with UHMW Polyethylene. It appears to be delrin-like material. He says they like the results, not the cons of polyUrethane. Says NVH levels are minimal too. Although I’m sure impacts are not isolated well, but nicer than solid.
                      6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

                      Comment


                        #12
                        UHMW (what Condor Speed Shop has been making) is a stone's throw away from solid, I don't understand the hesitation in just getting solid mounts? All M cars starting with the E92 GTR and F8X cars have the rear subframe solidly mounted, and most people I've seen post their experiences switching to solid mounts say there's no NVH.
                        '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

                        Comment


                          #13
                          There is no nvh when switching to subframe solids IF, all your other bushings from moving components (front and rear diff mounts, inner upper and inner lower control arm bushings) that attach to the subframe are stock rubber (they isolate the nvh).

                          I would add that, because solids increase localized stresses, it is recommended that solids are put in cars with additional reinforcements (topside kits for front and rear mounts, not just underside plates).

                          I just swapped to solid CMP subframe bushings (had AKG), and also swapped to stock front diff mount (also had AKG), nvh is now a lot lower than before.

                          Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


                          Youtube DIYs and more

                          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                            There is no nvh when switching to subframe solids IF, all your other bushings from moving components (front and rear diff mounts, inner upper and inner lower control arm bushings) that attach to the subframe are stock rubber (they isolate the nvh).

                            I would add that, because solids increase localized stresses, it is recommended that solids are put in cars with additional reinforcements (topside kits for front and rear mounts, not just underside plates).

                            I just swapped to solid CMP subframe bushings (had AKG), and also swapped to stock front diff mount (also had AKG), nvh is now a lot lower than before.

                            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                            That first sentence is the truth but I don't think old///MFanatic trusts us much Can't say I blame since we are a bunch of rapscallions.

                            I will say this about myself. I don't recommend things because I bought them and I don't recommend things because I know people in the industry (I don't). If something sucks it immediately gets ripped off my car and thrown directly in the trash. When I pulled out my powerflex polys I threw them in the trash with only 2k miles on them because I didn't want anybody else riding around on that garbage. Engineering wise I won't argue with professionals but on the e46 BMW blew the RACP design so badly that I really wonder how such a thing occurs. Completely unprofessional and I place no confidence in anything to do with our RACP in their hands.
                            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I have a street driven car and went with bimmerworld solid bushings and OEM type of joints of bushings everywhere else. I've had plenty of cars that I went full race-car-but-still-drive-on-the-street which is always a horrible choice at the end. The solid bushings are not noticeable at all in greater NVH.

                              Comment

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