What is this and should it be hot?

[Thonas]

I think I am close to just leaving it unplugged. I never drive in the winter and chasing electrical gremlins makes the hair stand up on the back of my neck. Is there any risk to just leaving it unplugged or why not just switch to the single unit like BMW did for the CSL?

[old///MFanatic]

I think I am close to just leaving it unplugged. I never drive in the winter and chasing electrical gremlins makes the hair stand up on the back of my neck. Is there any risk to just leaving it unplugged or why not just switch to the single unit like BMW did for the CSL?

Why, well single E46 non-M unit still has the water valve. They’re separate units on the same perch.
Right now as I understand your issue, the Aux Pump (tall cylinder next to valve with plug on top) is not your issue of being hot always. That’s your water valve, the small one. Taking out the Aux Pump doesn’t address the valve.

[old///MFanatic]

If I have current flowing to the connector plug that connects to the small cylinder when everything is off then I have an issue in the control panel?

Checking it (unplugged from valve) that should mean valve is not triggering it. (although must mention it does not completely exclude it as being original reason for any shorts upstream)
A short in the wiring somewhere (which usually blows a fuse) was why check fuses.
More common it’s in the control panel, was told some resistor goes wacky sending signal to valve. Panel sending signal much more common than short somewhere in wiring.

If you need to get a used panel, it’s one less step from an M3 because it’s already coded for Aux Pump. Non-m will not be coded for Aux Pump and it’ll store a fault code if that matters. I suppose if you’re already planning on Aux Pump delete for more clearance for CSL intake then used non-M control panel one step in that direction. Ha, it won’t need to be coded out.

You got this, sorry didn’t mean to scare you. It’s basically 1 of 3 things. Now looks like down to two.

[Thonas]

Checking it (unplugged from valve) that should mean valve is not triggering it. (although must mention it does not completely exclude it as being original reason for any shorts upstream)
A short in the wiring somewhere (which usually blows a fuse) was why check fuses.
More common it’s in the control panel, was told some resistor goes wacky sending signal to valve. Panel sending signal much more common than short somewhere in wiring.

If you need to get a used panel, it’s one less step from an M3 because it’s already coded for Aux Pump. Non-m will not be coded for Aux Pump and it’ll store a fault code if that matters. I suppose if you’re already planning on Aux Pump delete for more clearance for CSL intake then used non-M control panel one step in that direction. Ha, it won’t need to be coded out.

You got this, sorry didn’t mean to scare you. It’s basically 1 of 3 things. Now looks like down to two.

Thanks! I think I am going the route of eliminating the aux pump to help in clearance of the turner CSL box and fix this issue.

[BubbaTree]

Checking it (unplugged from valve) that should mean valve is not triggering it. (although must mention it does not completely exclude it as being original reason for any shorts upstream)
A short in the wiring somewhere (which usually blows a fuse) was why check fuses.
More common it’s in the control panel, was told some resistor goes wacky sending signal to valve. Panel sending signal much more common than short somewhere in wiring.

If you need to get a used panel, it’s one less step from an M3 because it’s already coded for Aux Pump. Non-m will not be coded for Aux Pump and it’ll store a fault code if that matters. I suppose if you’re already planning on Aux Pump delete for more clearance for CSL intake then used non-M control panel one step in that direction. Ha, it won’t need to be coded out.

You got this, sorry didn’t mean to scare you. It’s basically 1 of 3 things. Now looks like down to two.

I don't mean to hijack this tread, but on the subject of fuses in this water valve, I have a related issue & question. For about a year, my '03 vert has shown Code 16 - IHKA: Relay, auxiliary heater - that according to my Schwaben scanner. I've done a considerable amount of searching around, but can't positively identify a relay for this valve. Unlike the one at issue here, I have no heating issue, no operational or functional issues at all. I just can't positively identify the cause of the fault nor can I clear it. Any suggestions or help is appreciated.
Thanks.

[Thonas]

Does anyone have the part number for the single unit that is installed on the CSL? or is it just any of the non-M versions? Thanks

[BIllybilly2]

Does anyone have the part number for the single unit that is installed on the CSL? or is it just any of the non-M versions? Thanks

64118369805, same as any non M

[Thonas]

64118369805, same as any non M

Thanks!!

[fattycharged]

So this is what killed my battery...Thanks for the thread, I didn't ever investigate, but I couldn't understand why this thing was so hot when I was doing the CSL box install a while back and I just ignored it at the time to my wallets detriment.

[ac427]

You didn’t drive it but did you have the key on or take it out of sleep mode? Iirc it’s pwm powered to activate the solenoid to close. You don’t have to run the engine to get the solenoid hot. We’d bet against another if could last over 30 seconds with forearm against it. Bugger gets hot. This with key on and HVAC activated.

Now if your car is completely untouched then that would be an issue. There is a seal inside that can go out and cause a short. They can also get jammed. I’ve rebuilt them before, they sell a kit. But that’s not for the coils. That’s internal seals, plunger.

Thread revival.

Is the seal repair kit an official BMW part or a third party kit?

[old///MFanatic]

Thread revival.
Is the seal repair kit an official BMW part or a third party kit?

It’s aftermarket. Just recently seen a version of them on eBay.

[sapote]

Now if your car is completely untouched then that would be an issue. There is a seal inside that can go out and cause a short. They can also get jammed. I’ve rebuilt them before, they sell a kit. But that’s not for the coils. That’s internal seals, plunger.

It's an old thread but my post is for general knowledge.

If the solenoid coil inside the valve is shorted, this caused the high current and fuse F62 should be blown.

The heater valve should not be hot with key turned off. (Obviously there is a delay time after key was removed for the valve to cool off from the last drive or key turned on.)

The valve getting hot when it's turned off. It's spring loaded to the default open or flow position, and it needs current flow thru to close the valve. When you set the cabin heater on, the valve solenoid is turned off and the valve is opened by the spring to let coolant flow through, and no heat generated by the internal solenoid.
(This begs the question why they designed the valve to be hot by the energized solenoid to shut off the valve? It's a thermal related issue.)

The OP hot valve issue was caused by the bad cabin air controller module which grounded one side of the heater valve solenoid, with the key turned off. When key turned off, both wires to the valve should be 12v.

[WBVenom]

sapote - Thank you for the update! Good to know your OP issue was due to a bad cabin air controller module, and that confirmation of good working order can be done by measuring for 12V at both valve pins.

Going to further embellish this thread with a heads up that as old///MFanatic posted above, this hot valve issue cannot be resolved by swapping to the Non-M / CSL heater valve assembly (64118369805). The Non-M / CSL heater valve assembly (64118369805) still has the valve. It just lacks the auxiliary coolant pump present in the M (non-CSL) heater valve assembly (64118369807). The short cylinder in both the Non-M / CSL assembly (64118369805) and the M (non-CSL) assembly (64118369807) is the valve. The taller cylinder present in only the M (non-CSL) assembly (64118369807) is the auxiliary coolant pump. The valve generates significant heat. The pump does not. Omitting the pump only will not help or resolve a hot valve issue, as the valve is still present in either assembly.