heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Huh, I like the annealing idea, had not thought of that. I'll try that in the future, thanks guys.

What brand?

You may be right. I've installed thousands (?) of crush washers and I can generally "feel" them crush. I've also reused them, without issue, but if they aren't getting crushed fully or are reused then maybe?

Its actually super easy to torque with the right setup: 3/8" flex head, 3/8 - 1/2 adapter, 32mm socket. Tons of room.

Genuine BMW.

And yep, the flex head on the torque wrench really makes a difference. I wouldn't be surprised if most shops are just loosely torquing by hand with whatever tool then can get in there and calling it good.

[Slideways]

Lots of RTV...like a real pro would do! 🤣

A friend of mine had his tensioner crossthreaded. Real pros

Somehow, Dan Avon was able to fix it by ordering a custom tap IIRC.

[ApexPothole]

I've found that the torch trick works with Al crush washers as well, its just harder to judge temp with them as they will melt before glowing noticeably. With a propane torch, I just get them glowing and quench.

[Bry5on]

Works on Al too

Most 0-state (assumption here that crush washers are 0-state) aluminum alloys should get stronger after an anneal and quench cycle, no? Anneal and air cool will maintain the anneal. At least 2xxx, 6xxx and 7xxx series alloys behave this way.

Actually, looks like 5xxx is indeed similar to copper and does not harden with quenching, so you’re right for a 5xxx, which is almost certainly what an aluminum crush washer is made from. Learn something new every day!

[maupineda]

Only works with copper crush washers. Heat with a torch until just glowing red and then submerge in water.

Works on Al too

[Bry5on]

I'll ask my metalurgist father, but I think it would apply to all or most alloys, not just copper. Some crush washers provided in various kits look to be aluminum at times, not always copper.

Only copper gets softer with quenching! Pretty much every other metal has the opposite effect and should be air cooled. Pretty weird.

[jayjaya29]

I'll ask my metalurgist father, but I think it would apply to all or most alloys, not just copper. Some crush washers provided in various kits look to be aluminum at times, not always copper.

AFAIK, the aluminum ones should not be reused (although I have gotten away with it a couple times), but the heating method will not work like it does on the copper ones.

[bigjae46]

Lots of RTV...like a real pro would do! 🤣

[Tbonem3]

Either way I wouldn't pick a $0.59 aftermarket part EVEN if it was labeled OE over a $1.99 genuine part.

probably made in the same warehouse

[Tbonem3]

Only works with copper crush washers. Heat with a torch until just glowing red and then submerge in water.

I'll ask my metalurgist father, but I think it would apply to all or most alloys, not just copper. Some crush washers provided in various kits look to be aluminum at times, not always copper.

[jayjaya29]

the key with these soft metal crush washer is to make sure they crush, you can anneal them with a torch, and they become super soft and seal perfect. this was how I was able to stop my leaky tensioner.

Only works with copper crush washers. Heat with a torch until just glowing red and then submerge in water.

[maupineda]

the key with these soft metal crush washer is to make sure they crush, you can anneal them with a torch, and they become super soft and seal perfect. this was how I was able to stop my leaky tensioner.

[George Hill]

FCP has a $0.59 option

Either way I wouldn't pick a $0.59 aftermarket part EVEN if it was labeled OE over a $1.99 genuine part.

[bigjae46]

Not specifically, but I have replaced many non-OE crush washers that were leaking, I just don't know if it was a prior install error or part issue.

I have reused drain plug crush washers... a lot in the past with no know issues.

I'm not going to claim to be a metallurgist but its my understanding most BMW crush washers are aluminum is they are silver and copper if they are copper colored.

Now that I type this out it seems like BMWs are either copper M12 and smaller and silver/aluminum M14 and larger? As it relates to an S54, example:

• Copper - Drain plug, valve cover drain liner, vanos accumulator line, etc
• Silver/Aluminum - Tensioner, P/S Hoses, Rocker arm plugs on the back of the cylinder head, coolant drain plug, Upper T/C rail pin,

I have used aftermarket crush washers with success in the past, but they are generally so cheap I almost exclusively use Genuine now.

In this situation, 07119963418 is the T/C tensioner crush washer. On ECS:

• Genuine - $1.99, aluminum
• Elring - $2.03, copper

In the oil and gas industry, we carefully inspect any seal or gasket. The worst are the metallic spiral wound gaskets. Any nick, gouge, or damage renders the gasket defective. In that case, a leak at minimum causes expensive rework and downtime. At worst it causes a large release of highly flammable material.

I'd inspect those crush washers. I'm sure they are not handled carefully from the manufacturer to distributors to retailers to end user.

[Obioban]

Not specifically, but I have replaced many non-OE crush washers that were leaking, I just don't know if it was a prior install error or part issue.

I have reused drain plug crush washers... a lot in the past with no know issues.

I'm not going to claim to be a metallurgist but its my understanding most BMW crush washers are aluminum is they are silver and copper if they are copper colored.

Now that I type this out it seems like BMWs are either copper M12 and smaller and silver/aluminum M14 and larger? As it relates to an S54, example:

• Copper - Drain plug, valve cover drain liner, vanos accumulator line, etc
• Silver/Aluminum - Tensioner, P/S Hoses, Rocker arm plugs on the back of the cylinder head, coolant drain plug, Upper T/C rail pin,

I have used aftermarket crush washers with success in the past, but they are generally so cheap I almost exclusively use Genuine now.

In this situation, 07119963418 is the T/C tensioner crush washer. On ECS:

• Genuine - $1.99, aluminum
• Elring - $2.03, copper

FCP has a $0.59 option
(again, I've only used OE on my car, because because the price diff isn't worth the potential headache)