Trent's S54 Rebuild and Sedan Swap

[tlow98]

Ok, curiosity got the best of me. I found my stock m11 rod bolts after previously thinking they were thrown away. Flipped the motor and took off the pan.

ARP suggests a stretch gauge method .0075-.0080", and in lieu of that 70ft/lbs.

I installed my stock m11 bolts to see what 70 degrees equate to in torque. It's about 79fl lbs give or take.

This 13% discrepancy in torque (clamping force) doesn't feel great despite the bearing clearances are identical. I ordered an ARP stretch gauge... should be here tomorrow.

I really don't want to use my stock m11 bolts as they have been in the hands of the machinists and I don't know what they torqued them to or how they were treated. I'm not doubting them, but you don't know what you don't know. The machinists were operating with the mindset that I would replace them with ARP hardware which was my plan at the time. For the record the machinist looked at me like a crazy person when I mentioned I was considering re-using my 200k+ mile rod bolts. Like, I just landed on the moon, haha.

I'll measure the lengths with the stretch gauge. There's also some very minor marring of the threads on the stock bolts that I don't like. So, the plan is to install ARP bolts according to ARP's best recommendation. Which is what I should have done to start...

[tlow98]

RTABS completed the Bry5on way. Follow his build for the exact directions.

- z4 RTABS w/ECS limiter only in the outboard side.

My alignment marks were still there - who knows how that will carry over to the m3 suspension as opposed to the 330i setup. Likely, they mean nothing.

Also, don’t waste your money on the Schwaban RTAB tool. It’s hot garbage. Removed two sets of RTABS and installed one set and it’s shot… of course, I was using impact tools, but who doesn’t. I’d suggest the MIS tool or the cup-type tools.

the old ones were shot, but not as bad as you’d suspect for 160k-ish miles dating back to 2005.

[tlow98]

In tonight’s edition of This Old Car we:
- Replace power steering hoses (mostly) and reservoir.
- Replace the rear main seal.

I sure wish all the hoses would have come in. The one old hose left shouldn’t be a nightmare in the future and the main issue (power steering pressure hose) is done.

Main seal fun. This was much easier than the front main. Fun fact - the harbor freight 4” magnetic parts holder is the perfect size for this. Or, do it the smart way and buy the whole kit. The choice is yours. If you do it the HF way, just go slow and work your dead blow hammer around in a circle slowly. The dead blow hammer way will permanently change the shape of your magnetic holder :-/

[Slideways]

Ok, curiosity got the best of me. I found my stock m11 rod bolts after previously thinking they were thrown away. Flipped the motor and took off the pan.

ARP suggests a stretch gauge method .0075-.0080", and in lieu of that 70ft/lbs.

I installed my stock m11 bolts to see what 70 degrees equate to in torque. It's about 79fl lbs give or take.

This 13% discrepancy in torque (clamping force) doesn't feel great despite the bearing clearances are identical. I ordered an ARP stretch gauge... should be here tomorrow.

I really don't want to use my stock m11 bolts as they have been in the hands of the machinists and I don't know what they torqued them to or how they were treated. I'm not doubting them, but you don't know what you don't know. The machinists were operating with the mindset that I would replace them with ARP hardware which was my plan at the time. For the record the machinist looked at me like a crazy person when I mentioned I was considering re-using my 200k+ mile rod bolts. Like, I just landed on the moon, haha.

I'll measure the lengths with the stretch gauge. There's also some very minor marring of the threads on the stock bolts that I don't like. So, the plan is to install ARP bolts according to ARP's best recommendation. Which is what I should have done to start...

IMO, there is a certain point where the ARP M11s start looking like the better choice. In this instance, I'd also go ARP M11s over the stock bolts.

[tlow98]

IMO, there is a certain point where the ARP M11s start looking like the better choice. In this instance, I'd also go ARP M11s over the stock bolts.

Yeah, it feels a bit dogmatic or “forest for the trees” to continue with the stockers in this situation.

I’ll install the ARPs in the best possible way and roll onward.

[Slideways]

Yeah, it feels a bit dogmatic or “forest for the trees” to continue with the stockers in this situation.

I’ll install the ARPs in the best possible way and roll onward.

Yeah, after a second or third rod bearing change (some early cars got more than one recall), better to go with the new hardware. I'd like to think that BMW would use ARP hardware if it did not cost so much or they didn't have existing partnerships.

[mrgizmo04]

Also, don't waste your money on the Schwaban RTAB tool. It's hot garbage. Removed two sets of RTABS and installed one set and it's shot… of course, I was using impact tools, but who doesn't.

No no on impact, just patience . And you have to grease/regrease and keep the threads super clean, because cranking on the nut generates a TONNE of friction/heat.

FCP warranty for tools will come in handy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[tlow98]

No no on impact, just patience . And you have to grease/regrease and keep the threads super clean, because cranking on the nut generates a TONNE of friction/heat.

FCP warranty for tools will come in handy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I don’t use impacts when I borrow tools, but when I buy a $40 tool I consider it disposable :-)

your stuff is safe!

but yeah, the issus with the Schwaban RTAB tool is many, but mostly the washers are pretty much garbage. Even hand tools were making them deform and bind.

one tool grade washer and bearing would make it tolerable.

[tlow98]

Update:

- motor off stand
- trans mated with new clutch and pressure plate
- auto solutions shifter installed
- power train installed
- car 90% reassembled
- new control arms fitted
- new tie rods fitted
- wheel hub and new front brakes fitted


Wait for it… car started and ran pretty well. Then I believe the starter died. Haha, what a roller coaster. Also, some of the wiring specs Kassel publishes doesn’t cover all e46 permutations, so I moved about 4 wires. One of them, critically, being the oil pressure light.

also, it’s very possible I swapped some O2 wires… getting codes there

before giving up the ghost the starter did a great job of priming the new motor and enabling the oil pressure light to go out. So, if you’re rebuilding one of these I highly recommend pulling the plugs and using the starter to prime the motor.

[tlow98]

Wiring details for anyone that treads this path in the future.

Here is the brief DIY that Kassel published. My recipient is an MS43 manual transmission car 2004/02 build date. Some of the Kassel directions work and some do not. Many sensors on the M54 cars are directly wired (through in-and-out connections) and do not pass through the DME as they do on the S54 cars. These vary by model and year. As always, you'll likely need to do some work instead of just blindly following Kassel's directions. Thanks heinzboehmer for helping me with WDS here - I was a real noob in there before this swap, but I'm better now. Thank you!

The correct Oil Pressure Light information:
- X60004 pin 11 - Pin 13 of Cluster
- Kassel calls this out as pin 14 of the cluster. This is not correct.
- The oil level sensor is correct as Kassel calls it out.

Battery charging signal:
- x60004 pin 1 - Pin 2 of cluster

Clutch switch and Gear Position Sensor:
- The stock M3 wires the clutch switch and GPS in series, whereas the M54-based cars have the clutch directly wired to the DME. You will likely find the clutch switch for the M54-based cars in pin 23 of x60004. Pin 23 goes unused in the mss54 DME. This step is similar to an SMG swap from this DIY.
- x60004 Pin 23 to Pin 20 x60002 "Signal Switch, Gear Recognition"
- I may have some extra coding to do here as my car is an SMG swap, but that remains to be seen.

Some people also have issues with the parking brake light being non-op. I did not, but if you need the right place to look for the M3 info it's here.

Now, I await my new starter with bated breath. 😶

[heinzboehmer]

Glad I could help!

Looking forward to seeing this thing on the road.

[tlow98]

Update: Lots of happenings... and some fumbles. Mostly by me, but not all.

Lots of things to troubleshoot with a fresh rebuild of this size. Thanks to a few of you who have gone above and beyond by inheriting and helping with many of my issues. You know who you are! As an attempt to pay it forward, if you are doing a swap or a fresh rebuild and need tech support, feel free to reach out to me. I've been given a brief but in-depth learning session on MK20-MK60 swaps, the basics of motor troubleshooting, WDS wiring, and O2 sensor wiring. So, if you're having these issues feel free to reach out.

Motor:
- Had some major air leaks (after having the manifold off and on 5-6 times I managed to leave the ICV unplugged the final time - fun times)
- Needed a new starter as the rebuilt original shit the bed after the first start. yay!
- O2 wiring. Was chasing my tail with O2 sensors giving crazy readings and swapping the two with the common plugs didn't fix it. Well, a well-known vendor on here had done some wiring work (thinning the SMG harness) and some things were messed up. I can't totally blame them, however, as I asked to have it shipped asap as I was getting impatient and this was a rather specific build. SMG to manual swap on top of a chassis swap into an existing manual car. Somewhere along the lines, something got messed up. Very happy to say Kassel and I came to an agreement and I think they really are standup vendors. Moving on!
- Fuel pump. Hella from Bimmerworld. I'm not totally sure I needed to do this, but the OG 212k mile pump did make some weird noises, and with the odd running I just needed to take it out of the equation. The Hella has been working great. I bought it as a spare fearing this issue. If it craps out I'm only out $99. We'll see.

Motor wins(!):
- It's running fantastic.
- Oil change showed about what I would expect. Some cylinder bore flake, but not much. Hardly anything in the oil filter. Win!

Exhaust:
- Ditched the incredibly loud Stromung swap-specific exhaust for an E36 M3 unit. Blissfully quiet now. Love it.

ABS/DSC:
- Attempted to run Mk20 wheel speed sensors with MK60 DSC unit. This might have worked, but a couple of the sensors were crumbling to bits and replaced them with MK60 units. This is where I messed up. In the chaos of the swap, I completely neglected the realization that I was essentially doing an MK20 - MK60 swap. So, yeah, dunce hat on, you cannot run MK60 sensors on the left side of the car with MK20 sensors on the right. The car will not be happy.
- Coding Error. Needed to recode the ABS module with NCS expert. Specifically - swapped cars funny. Load your car info via ALSZ in NCS expert. This will allow you to choose the MK60 module and run the job name "SG_CODIEREN". As I understand you can load the info via many other modules if your car is an M3. Non M3 chassis are different.
- Steering angle sensor calibration. Tool32 worked well for this. See here for instructions. Some versions of INPA can do it, but not all.

Next steps:
- Moaning diff. The quiet exhaust revealed a moaning diff on super tight turns. Seems like the OP didn't put the magic fluid in. Magic fluid on order.
- Cold shifting on the 420g... not that enjoyable. Never was, never will be. I'll try a Castrol Transmax Z ATF fluid change. It's one of the few approved ATFs for this box. Approved for Euro M3 back in the day. Came as a factory fill in many of them. The E39 540 and M5 guys seem to like it.
- Drive the snot out of it.
- Karb box.

[heinzboehmer]

Interested in hearing your thoughts on the ATF if you end up putting that in

[Bry5on]

Good to see it on the road again! Nice work

[tlow98]

Alright, still righting some wrongs over here.

- All new Mk60 sensors installed. I now have ABS and DSC again - Hooray!
- Diff fluid swapped for the right stuff. No more diff moaning - Hooray, again. Old fluid looked surprisingly good but must have been made of something not to spec. Picture of E46 diff that came up from the Titanic attached. At least it's not made of carbon fiber as it would have exploded. Everyone knows that tho, right? Too soon?
- Got a pleasant surprise in the mail.
- Tried a new combination for the DMTL codes. Moved Pin 7 of x60011 to Pin 18 of x60004. Fingers crossed...

Question: it appears the "long" press of the DSC button did not bring up the DSC and BRAKE lights. Just the DSC light illuminates. Is that normal? I seem to remember two lights with the long press? Short press brought on the yellow DSC light as per usual.

To come: Chasing a fuel relay shadow code.