MasterC17's HPDE/Time Attack Track Car (Re)Build

[MasterC17]

Awesome updates. Do you mind posting some pics of the steering column mounting to the roll cage?

Sure thing - see attached!

Nice work! Like the MK60 swap. Job is a pain on a street car, but probably not as terrible with the engine and interior out. Good call on tapping into the rear lines, making new rear ones was easily the worst part when I did mine.

It's still terrible LOL. Kudos to you for doing it with the motor still in - your DIY is super helpful!

Some progress from this weekend. I decided to make the MK60 harness (more or less) standalone. There will just be two Deutsch connectors that make the final connections to the body harness for power, warning lamp, CAN, brake lights, and OBD connection. Wheel speed sensor wiring all covered in 1,200f thermal shielding. Wiring running from the drivers to passengers front is using corrugated tubing. Not quite finished, but coming out clean which I am happy about.

The body harness is coming along, albeit slowly. Lots of things to delete, but also can't delete too much and make the car non-functional lol! This will also be run in corrugated tubing/cloth tape. Once finished, it should be extremely simplistic. I want to replace the giant OE fuse box with a mini fuse box, but also need to be conscious of time, so that might have to wait for now.

[MasterC17]

Exciting day - engine pickup from machine shop!

Specs:
Mahle Pistons 87.25mm 11.6 CR
VAC Motorsports High Performance Coated Rod Bearings
VAC Motorsports High Performance Main Bearings
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Head Studs
Supertech Valve Guides

[MasterC17]

Sometimes it doesn't really feel like a ton is getting accomplished, despite the many hours being invested into the car!

On Friday I had HTE Performance tune the car, delete EWS, etc. Unfortunately, I had forgotten the MSS54 (non HP) can't run a MAP Sensor, so I am now on the hunt for an MSS54HP. Running Alpha-N for the moment. A bit frustrating, but that's how it goes.

Waiting on some parts for the motor, so this weekend consisted of getting the calipers on the car, pressure testing the system, and filling the system with fluid. Happy to report that all went well! Mounted up new Kumho V730's on new APEX ARC-8's in 18x10. And then just the normal futzing around with little things here and there, and figuring out what is still missing. In effect, the car should now stop and turn, so we just need the "GO" parts!

Some obligatory pictures - not sure which car has more front camber!

[MasterC17]

Headlight trim and mirrors installed. Forgot to have these painted with the rest of the car the first time around lol

[MasterC17]

Just missing a few gaskets and seals. Should have the motor wrapped up next weekend!

[MasterC17]

Next step is to get the motor in the car!

[MasterC17]

Well overdue for an update! I was tied up with Gridlife @ The Glen - ended up taking 1st place in TrackMod in Time Attack!



Finally got the motor in, and things have moved quickly from there. Really just to the point of working out the smaller details, and I need to wrap up the wiring. I'm sure it will still be a bit before the car moves under its own power, but awesome progress nonetheless!

[bigjae46]

Damn, I missed the post about wire harness thinning. I only have 4 modules left in my car - ECU, DSC, LCM and the fuel pump relay. Maybe the Hall effect switch on the brake pedal if you consider that a module.

Everything else can be deleted.

You can delete the fuse box, I used two 10 position distro blocks - one for +12v and one switched. I have a cut off switch - the e-cut off and an ignition switch in the dash - I probably could have gotten by with a single 12-16 position fuse box.

[MasterC17]

Damn, I missed the post about wire harness thinning. I only have 4 modules left in my car - ECU, DSC, LCM and the fuel pump relay. Maybe the Hall effect switch on the brake pedal if you consider that a module.

Everything else can be deleted.

You can delete the fuse box, I used two 10 position distro blocks - one for +12v and one switched. I have a cut off switch - the e-cut off and an ignition switch in the dash - I probably could have gotten by with a single 12-16 position fuse box.

Wow - now that's some intense wire thinning! May I ask how you did the wiring after removing the EWS? Did you add a relay?

[bigjae46]

Wow - now that's some intense wire thinning! May I ask how you did the wiring after removing the EWS? Did you add a relay?

Intense is a good way to describe it. I actually deleted too much and had to go back and put wiring back in...that sucked. You really can't delete the LCM unless you find another way to control the solenoid on the brake booster vacuum line....learned that the hard way.

The red toggle switch has +12v in and goes to a fused distro block.

The start/stop button has the lead coming from the solenoid to a larger 40a SPDT relay. The other side of the trigger is connected to ignition. The coil has 12v and a ground which goes to the start/stop button. The other side of the start/stop is grounded. When the button is pressed, it closes a ground loop which powers the coil in the relay, closes the contact and applies 12v to the starter.

Then all of the ignition positions in the fuse box are turned on and off with the red toggle. So if I flip the toggle down it shuts the car off.

[heinzboehmer]

You really can't delete the LCM unless you find another way to control the solenoid on the brake booster vacuum line....learned that the hard way.

The solenoid valve on 11617833212? If so, that's very surprising. Wiring diagram shows it going to the DME only.

[MasterC17]

The solenoid valve on 11617833212? If so, that's very surprising. Wiring diagram shows it going to the DME only.

Agreed - I don't remember exactly what I did, to be fair, but I removed the LCM back in 2013 and ran that way for two years without any issues.

[bigjae46]

The solenoid valve on 11617833212? If so, that's very surprising. Wiring diagram shows it going to the DME only.

There is a lead that goes from the hall effect switch to the DME which I am assuming activates the lead going to the solenoid. Not sure if it makes a difference, I have an LCI with the LED tail lights as well.

And I had a push button switch in place of the hall effect sensor. I wasn't confident in the reliability of the push button either.

[MasterC17]

It runs! Took a bit of an effort, but we were able to start the motor today. Other than one noisy pulley it sounds great!

Still many details to get sorted out before an event, but massive progress from six months ago.



Obligatory first start video!

https://youtube.com/shorts/B7nTnksYNIg?feature=share

[bigjae46]

Nice!

BTW...your valve cover is dirty! haha

Are planning to reinstall the dash and/or use the OE instrument cluster?