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Black & Tan 332iT
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Is this an optimal model generated by CG? The geometric complexity in areas like the tie rod mount look really difficult. Looks like you could keep 10% more material and simplify the shape, no? Cool nonetheless.
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Okay a little practice and I'm getting better. Once you start adding all the keepout spaces for bolts, wrenches, ratchets, AND sensor and install direction, control arms, tie rods... you can see how BMW arrived at the e60 'bowl' shape design. I'm a few simulations in now and they're all coming in around 2-3kg with 4-7x safety factors in printed/machined aluminum and 5-15x safety factors in Ti. I used some pretty hefty loads, like 2G in braking and 1.6G cornering to build the model. I'm sure there's lots of mass optimization to be had here, but since I'm really trying to optimize for stiffness without invalidating strength, Ti probably won't be much of a benefit at all over Al, practically speaking. I'll keep you all posted.
Example aluminum solves
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Made some progress modeling bank 2:
Interesting to note that as George Hill pointed out - the US bank 2 header crosses over to the *passenger* side of the car, where the euro bank 2 header stays on the *driver* side of the car. Odd!
Edit, some details:
Tube is 40mm OD, 1.5mm wall (37mm ID) and all bends in bank 2 are 40mm radius
Runner length is somewhere around 320mm when you include the length of the exhaust port
A post-step size of a 5/8" OD, .065" wall should work well with the stock pipes
I just purchased an exhaust textbook so that I don't royally screw this up.Last edited by Bry5on; 03-08-2025, 11:05 PM.
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Thanks to a fellow member here (thank you!), today I got a good scan of a front suspension knuckle for a future project. Figured I'd make it available here for anyone who wants to use it for design purposes: https://s.digital3dcloud.com/space/f...lang=en&loop=1
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Another couple hours, trying a different technique that's easier to model but basically has to be 3D printed instead of mandrel bent. I'll probably end up doing both techniques in the end, the easier to model for mockup and the easier to manufacture for final version. Bank 2 on the left in the photo is equal length, again just practice. You can see I'm working to get the hang of keeping fastener and tool clearance for installation.
Last edited by Bry5on; 03-06-2025, 09:59 PM.
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I need this soon!Originally posted by Bry5on View PostIt's all those throttle blip downshifts with the smooth tune

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It’s all those throttle blip downshifts with the smooth tune
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lol maybeOriginally posted by davidinnyc View Post
...or Bryson sends it harder than anyone else on the boards!
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...or Bryson sends it harder than anyone else on the boards!Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View PostThe plastic probably got brittle by age and heat.
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First couple hours in Fusion 360 logged. Rough but it's a start.
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I got to meet George Hill this weekend which was super fun, and we scanned about half of the things we wanted to (my fault, I was short on time). But we did get a good scan of the aluminum shear plate and a couple good scans of an s54 in an empty engine bay to get header placement and clearances in the case that I can come up with something clever in the future for an actual equal length and stepped header. Also, if anyone has a loose front control arm with bushing and a loose front knuckle in the Bay Area, let me know. Most ideal if you also have a front strut to scan with the knuckle. Any condition as long as they're not bent, just need to get good scans.
And on my way home last night, I went for a couple repeated downshifts into my favorite local challenging corner and my final downshift into second didn't respond to my foot. I was left to drive the last mile home with about 2% max throttle and the dreaded EML, DSC and BRAKE lights all lit up in front of me. Well today I started digging around and after measuring the TPS sensors decided to just actuate the throttle by hand to rule out an interference. I felt an odd step as I swept through the throttle opening, so I poked the flashlight down into the engine bay and found this, the arm between the actuator and the throttle bodies had cracked and popped off. Pretty cool that the car is fault tolerant of losing the throttle bodies entirely, as I was able to drive home using just the ICV as throttle (this is how the s54 normal operates at light throttle anyway). Clever engineers! New arm should be here in a week or so.
And while I was in there I replaced the Phillips fasteners with hex thanks to heinzboehmer
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I think that F80 M3 is a nice solution. Thanks for posting that info.
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