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Black & Tan 332iT

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    How's the glare with those LEDs?

    Having tried a good range of color temps for headlights, I think my favorite color temp range is something like 3500-3700 K. Above that, I feel like I start losing more to glare than I gain in resolution.

    Automotive xenons are generally what, low-to-mid 4000s K? That's pretty much the highest I'll go for.
    I’m not exactly a headlight expert, but glare might be the right word to describe it. They’re so damn bright, but the brightness is a little jarring, especially when combined with the cutoff that you CANNOT get into a good spot. The light coming off of reflective signs is very intense, and generally the light coming off of other objects is also intense. I tried a few level adjustments and either you’re blinding cars in front of you, or the cutoff is dropping into the road because of the height of the step in the cutoff. They’d be worlds better if the cutoff was just flat.

    My wife’s and my prior Porsches both have/had LED headlights and didn’t experience either of these issues, so I was unpleasantly surprised. These are just as bright, if not brighter, but the execution isn’t fantastic.

    Also note that I have non-m headlights, so mine don’t suffer from the toasted marshmallow reflector issues that the M3s had. Both reflectors came out looking perfect with 240k miles on them.
    Last edited by Bry5on; 07-07-2025, 06:55 AM.

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  • IamFODI
    replied
    How's the glare with those LEDs?

    Having tried a good range of color temps for headlights, I think my favorite color temp range is something like 3500-3700 K. Above that, I feel like I start losing more to glare than I gain in resolution.

    Automotive xenons are generally what, low-to-mid 4000s K? That's pretty much the highest I'll go for.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Sounds like those are crap, because the stock headlights are not very good

    Glad to hear the review, though, as I've been debating LED conversion to take weight off the nose.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Minor updates:

    The mullet is on v31 now, and thanks to karter16 and all his work, we've got cold start all dialed in now. It was honestly close before but it's pretty on the money now. Plus, Heinz's car now runs right on the same file as mine and the three beta testers on the file are all reporting positive results. We did something good. If you're on an existing one and want the latest, reach out and I'll whip a new file up for you.

    Second, I've had a broken-mount passenger headlight for as long as I've owned the car. I finally picked up a replacement and decided to do the NHK LED headlight conversion using nextelbuddy's great DIY video (thank you!) with some minor tweaks. The two tweaks:
    1) Doubled up the wiring to the low beams (red+green to positive, black doubled-up to negative) as the wire gauge in the BMW wiring is not quite large enough for the LED headlight wattage. It's fine in the HIDs because the bulb itself runs at higher voltage and therefore lower current.
    2) I 3D printed plastic ballast replacements to drop the dead weight that would otherwise be sitting there. Overall I think I dropped 3lbs off the nose.

    Honest opinion, I'm not in love with these lights. Yes they're WAY brighter but the color temp is bluer, so they seem less effective with the light output to me. The cutoff is also super weird - it's like a step _| instead of a ramp _/. Not super into it. Not so much that it's worth removing them, but I wouldn't do it again. The stock headlights were pretty damn good.

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    Also, a 55" TV fits great even with the brace left in place:
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  • D-O
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    I had to use spacers with my SS exhaust too, it fits very poorly. Reused the same spacers with the cabrio brace, no issues there, although I made these spacers myself, so I can’t comment on the SS specific hardware.
    Many thanks.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by D-O View Post

    I had to use the spacers included with my SS exhaust to get the braces to fit properly with the oversized pipes. Any idea how the convertible brace would work with the SS oversize dual pipe section two?
    I had to use spacers with my SS exhaust too, it fits very poorly. Reused the same spacers with the cabrio brace, no issues there, although I made these spacers myself, so I can’t comment on the SS specific hardware.

    Leave a comment:


  • D-O
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Fits great! Rough math says that the 4 cabrio fasteners will see about 60% of the load of the original 8, and this brace will certainly be stiffer inherently. So an upgrade on paper. No real noticeable change, but it's definitely not less stiff. It's getting hard to do the driveway test as the car isn't making much creaking in the door sills unless it's pretty extreme.

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    I had to use the spacers included with my SS exhaust to get the braces to fit properly with the oversized pipes. Any idea how the convertible brace would work with the SS oversize dual pipe section two?
    Last edited by D-O; 07-02-2025, 12:33 PM.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post
    Wow, thanks for your contribution Bry5on, great read and development! I know there's a guy in europe selling a brace that bolts the shock tower and fender rail. Do you think that would add even more rigidity?
    https://drifthq.com/products/tech-53-bmw-e46-bolt-on-strut-tower-reinforcement-kit?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=64e6463eb&pr_r ec_pid=8087369875643&pr_ref_pid=8006405423291&pr_s eq=uniform
    Funny, this is actually what I started on, which led me to the project I chose instead! I went to visit George to grab a scan of that area to design a brace just like that.

    It just so happened that the car I was scanning had hit a big pothole on one side so I could see exactly how the metal deformed. Once I’d given that a good look, I was pretty convinced that the flexiness that cracks that strut tower seam sealer is actually coming from where I braced, not directly from where the cracks were forming. So we ran the experiment I posted about earlier to validate the theory. At this point, I think that the brace above would be a bit redundant. I’d bet it would provide incremental gains, but likely much smaller than the invisible ones I installed. Plus, it wouldn’t be invisible So for now I’m pretty happy with where it is.

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  • enjoy_m3
    replied
    Wow, thanks for your contribution Bry5on, great read and development! I know there's a guy in europe selling a brace that bolts the shock tower and fender rail. Do you think that would add even more rigidity?
    The E46 front strut towers are known to be out of shape, it is one of the car’s weakest point. When the strut towers start to “mushroom,” it means that the metal has begun to deform. It is a result of stress, corrosion, or improper load distribution. This E46 strut tower reinforcemenent kit is the easiest way to fix or
    Last edited by enjoy_m3; 07-01-2025, 01:10 PM.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    I wonder if there would be additional benefit to be gained by epoxy bonding these? (3M 73333, etc.) I'm not really sure if there's any risk of movement over time around the bolt holes?
    From a stiffness performance perspective, technically yes although I’d wager you’re capturing 99.9% of the value with just fasteners. I think on balance you could make an epoxy/rubber joint a little lighter though. Given that I don’t actually know the loads here, tough to say!

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  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    3) I got to installing the fender brace with these awesome new rivet nuts (definitely recommend).
    I wonder if there would be additional benefit to be gained by epoxy bonding these? (3M 73333, etc.) I'm not really sure if there's any risk of movement over time around the bolt holes?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by ethan View Post
    Installing with wet POR-15 or is that an epoxy? Thank you for all you do!
    I did POR-15, probably lots of options though! When I did this at work I’d use a zinc chromate primer instead. Honestly not sure which is better.

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  • ethan
    replied
    Installing with wet POR-15 or is that an epoxy? Thank you for all you do!

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    I'm very excited for this! Having felt some extra chassis rigidity with the rear brace I now want as much as possible! I love that this solution is entirely invisible when installed! Which rivnuts did you use? (Or have I missed that somewhere?)

    Thanks very much for sharing the sendcutsend cart!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    These bad boys, installed in a .5” hole: Metric Low-Profile Rivet Nut, Tin-Zinc-Plated Steel, M8x1.25 Internal Thread, 15.2mm Long

    McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.


    Don’t do what I did and accidentally go one step too far with your stepped drill bit on the first test hole! But if you do want a low risk ‘test’ hole, the topmost one does the least structurally.

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  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    Ok, great successes!

    3) I got to installing the fender brace with these awesome new rivet nuts (definitely recommend).
    I'm very excited for this! Having felt some extra chassis rigidity with the rear brace I now want as much as possible! I love that this solution is entirely invisible when installed! Which rivnuts did you use? (Or have I missed that somewhere?)

    Thanks very much for sharing the sendcutsend cart!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

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