Ahhh I see. Re-read your earlier post. I would have thought there are better options in 18's for the non-M fenders but I'm clearly showing my ignorance a tad!
Regardless, agree with maupineda this build is just spectacular. Have enjoyed following along so much.
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Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostGot it makes sense.
For what it's worth because I've been down this road, I've crunched the numbers A LOT on tire and wheel combos. The weight savings in a tire/wheel packing using the MPS4S is negligible from 18" down to 17". An MPS4S in 245/40R17 and 245/35R18 both weigh 22lbs with only a 0.1" difference in diameter. So it comes down to wheel selection. The overall weight savings is more dramatic when going from 19s to 18s.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec....+4S&isSEO=true
I went with 18's for all the functional reasons you stated. No spacers, good scrub radius, great brake clearance, still fairly compliant compared to 19s (actually, MUCH more compliant) and significantly reduced unsprung mass.
That said, based on your posts, you're **much** more technical than I am and clearly have an engineering background so you know what you're doing. I only stayed at a Holiday Inn Express recently.
Originally posted by maupineda View PostKind of off topic, but what good canyon roads would you recommend around the Bay Area? Also it would be cool to meet some of you for drives or the likes. I moved to Hayward recently and brought my Z4M with me from Mexico.
btw, this touring build is just perfection from all angles. We’ll done
Getting a drive together would be cool! You’re not the only one on here in the bay from MX either.
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Kind of off topic, but what good canyon roads would you recommend around the Bay Area? Also it would be cool to meet some of you for drives or the likes. I moved to Hayward recently and brought my Z4M with me from Mexico.
btw, this touring build is just perfection from all angles. We’ll done
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Got it makes sense.
For what it's worth because I've been down this road, I've crunched the numbers A LOT on tire and wheel combos. The weight savings in a tire/wheel packing using the MPS4S is negligible from 18" down to 17". An MPS4S in 245/40R17 and 245/35R18 both weigh 22lbs with only a 0.1" difference in diameter. So it comes down to wheel selection. The overall weight savings is more dramatic when going from 19s to 18s.
I went with 18's for all the functional reasons you stated. No spacers, good scrub radius, great brake clearance, still fairly compliant compared to 19s (actually, MUCH more compliant) and significantly reduced unsprung mass.
That said, based on your posts, you're **much** more technical than I am and clearly have an engineering background so you know what you're doing. I only stayed at a Holiday Inn Express recently.
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostThese probably won't fit the brakes without spacers, might need centering rings and would make it look like Kevin's wagon had an evil twin, but some diamond black RGRs in 17s would look great IMO. I do prefer the standard silver 18" RGRs though.
Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostOut of curiosity, why are you looking for 17s? Is it solely due to the weight or aesthetics? Or comfort of a taller sidewall?
I’m looking to stick with 245/40/17 square, ideally on a 9” wheel to best support the sidewall, as the PS4S is offered in this size. I’m on 17x8.5” et41 right now, with -2.15 camber and I’m happy with the grip and balance levels (50/50 car with 50/50 tire is nice and neutral) but I’d like to knock the scrub radius down another 5mm to get back to the stock M3 number range to nail the driver feedback. Going to a 9” wheel from an 8.5” should also help with feedback and response without giving up any ride quality. On top of that, I’d like to drop some unsprung weight (style 32 are around 24lb ea) and clear 996 brakes. Overall, a tall order over here with M3 track and non-m fenders. My math says I should be able to squeeze 17x9 et45-47, which the latter is the target.
Last edited by Bry5on; 07-04-2023, 06:53 AM.
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Out of curiosity, why are you looking for 17s? Is it solely due to the weight or aesthetics? Or comfort of a taller sidewall?
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These probably won't fit the brakes without spacers, might need centering rings and would make it look like Kevin's wagon had an evil twin, but some diamond black RGRs in 17s would look great IMO. I do prefer the standard silver 18" RGRs though.
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostLooking forward to seeing the wagon on a set of those 17" wheels.
Options now are:
1) Apex ARC-8 17x9 et52 17.2lb +5mm spacer (same poke, stock offset, but flat face)
2) Bimmerworld TA8s 17x9 et42 18.2lb (most stock looking wheel but will poke out 5mm more, making it look less stock)
3) Apex VS5RS 17x9 et42 16.2lb (lightest but doesn’t come in a silver finish and pokes out like the Bimmerworld wheels)
I believe all of these setups will clear 996 brakes from my limited research, and my current thought, after a lot of vacillating, is that minimizing poke will ultimately yield both the best steering feel and also the most OEM looking setup. We’re going for capable sleeper here.
Thoughts welcome.Last edited by Bry5on; 07-03-2023, 10:20 PM.
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Looking forward to seeing the wagon on a set of those 17" wheels.
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Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostThank you Bry5on and tlow98 for this initial feedback on the Slon Workshop brace. Some of what you described I expected - stiffer, reduced NVH. Some of what you described, I didn't - the low speed sizzle, lol! I think I might be sad to see that go too!
This seems completely worth it to me. It's a lot of coin, but my gut told me from the announcement of this part that it was going to have a big impact on the front end because of tying into the firewall and HOW it ties into the structure.
I have his roof panel and carbon roof bow on my car (thank you jet_dogg) and the quality is amazing. I'm really impressed with what his shop continues to turn out. The Russian Post is a completely pain in the ass to deal with... but I haven't heard of anyone completely losing their parts. You just have to deploy some serious patience.
I could go on, but I don't want to cloud up your build thread. Thanks again for this feedback though! This is immensely valuable stuff.
-Casa
Nice read on the strut bar thanks for tagging me. That shit looks much better with the black mounts if I do say.
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Thank you Bry5on and tlow98 for this initial feedback on the Slon Workshop brace. Some of what you described I expected - stiffer, reduced NVH. Some of what you described, I didn't - the low speed sizzle, lol! I think I might be sad to see that go too!
This seems completely worth it to me. It's a lot of coin, but my gut told me from the announcement of this part that it was going to have a big impact on the front end because of tying into the firewall and HOW it ties into the structure.
I have his roof panel and carbon roof bow on my car (thank you jet_dogg) and the quality is amazing. I'm really impressed with what his shop continues to turn out. The Russian Post is a completely pain in the ass to deal with... but I haven't heard of anyone completely losing their parts. You just have to deploy some serious patience.
I could go on, but I don't want to cloud up your build thread. Thanks again for this feedback though! This is immensely valuable stuff.
-Casa
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Happy to leave my impressions of the Slon brace here, as it likely makes the most sense. I hope it helps someone.
Bry5on and I have a very similar suspension setup. Koni yellows and stock springs. The only thing that differs is the tires, and sway bar and Slon bar. His bar being 31-ish mm and mine stock convertible front bar. But I’ve also driven his car with the same sway bar as mine. Both are swapped 330i’s with all the front end chassis stiffeners that come on the M3 as stock. I’ve also owned an e91 and know the feel very well as they have, you guessed it, nearly the same chassis reinforcement as stock from the factory that the Slon brace adds to the e46.
- it feels like a more mature e46
- aka, a better lighter version of an e39 which is pretty fantastic as I always thought the e46 lacked the e39’s tighter, bank-vault like build quality.
- less mid corner correction, especially if the surface is bumpy
- dare I say it, easier to drive, gasp!
I didn't drive it highway speeds, but it was a little eerie. Less "feedback" but I have a suspicion the "feedback" it weeds out is actually just needless noise. So, a step in the right direction. It’s less talkative, but the information it gives you is better and more accurate. It’s a great halfway house between the talkative e46 and, to me, boring e90 feel. The e90 is great, but I found it pretty benign and lacking a bit of character. It’s a little too isolating, to me, for a fun car. Great daily tho.
So, objectively better, for sure. And, for me, subjectively better as well. It’s just better. There are lots of ways to stiffen the rear of these cars and after doing so the front end invariably feels out of step with the rear after doing so. There’s now a fix and it’s rad.
The only argument against it that rings true with me is that around town driving comment Bry5on made. But that’s subjective and the kinds of statements old people like me make when a memory of something doesn’t quite match their expectation. And I sort of grew up with the E46 so I could see that. At the end of the day it makes the car better in every way with zero downsides I can think of. And in the world of aftermarket parts that’s mostly unheard of. Huge props for making something like this to such a high degree.
if the car came with this new and you removed it you’d think the car was absolutely worse off. My car now feels “jiggly” where I previously didn’t notice.
so yeah, it’s on my list, damnit. My $5k car needs another $5k part like I need another hole in my wallet :-)Last edited by tlow98; 07-02-2023, 10:24 PM.
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Today I tackled the trunk wire that broke and caused my glass hatch release button not to work. What a pain to fix, I had to pull off a brand new piece of plastic which unceremoniously broke in the process. Oh well, everything works again!
And with the help of the local crew, I’ve narrowed down my overheating issue under load in high temps with AC on - my car still has the automatic non-m aux fan/shroud. The bottom of this shroud blocks a good 30% of the airflow going to the radiator and oil cooler, where the M3 is totally open. After going through two radiators, three thermostats, two thermostat housings, two water pumps, and every piece of plastic and rubber in the cooling system, I think this has got to be the issue. M3 aux fan and new shrouds on order.Last edited by Bry5on; 07-02-2023, 10:00 PM.
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Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
I’ll take you up on that if you also have rotors! I’m on 325mm stockers right now
Drive it any time!
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Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
I'm jealous, really want to drive it.
Also I just realized I have a set of 996 calipers sitting in the garage just waiting on parts (and time) to get installed. You're welcome to borrow one to test fit with the wheel. Haven't gotten the brackets yet and the caliper isn't machined, so would need some measuring and zip ties to get it in the right spot. Should be fine for test fitting though
Drive it any time!
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