Turner airbox install & notes.
Got the full kit on the BF sale last year. Given recent reviews and the value proposition, I took a jump.
Get yourself a Lisle 30500 pliers or equivalent for the boot clamps.
I used the replacement boots with the OEM oetiker clamps. The boots are slightly bigger in diameter than the OEM boots, so the clamps will not engage to the second locked position without serious deformation. I left them clicked on the first lock and the intake feels very solid. We will see what happens with that, but it still feels better than worm drive garbage (which is what I used for the intake side clamps, turned out of view).
Struggled getting it seated for longer than I care to admit. Finally discovered that the very bottom of boot #5 was folding over and causing the problem.
Even fully seated now, the intake "angled" up enough to not fully engage both slots for the two 10mm nuts on the bottom. Not enough flex in the boots to bend it down. This also made the IACV connection extremely difficult to get seated. Another person pressing down on the intake would have helped.

Unlike some of the others, the airbox clears the driver side radiator shroud with no trimming. I have a fresh clip on the shroud keeping it snug against the radiator.


You can see my map sensor installed next to the brake booster. I decided to use the Auto3Design harness which makes the maf/map/iat all plug & play.
You can also see my dip stick below the mouth of the intake. I don't love the location but in the end the ease of functionality wins out. I used a conduit bender to get the dipstick tube lined up. Would definitely prefer to have a CSL style dipstick, seems like something that could be reproduced without too much trouble.
All back together with obligatory sticker tune. I have found that the front corner of the snorkel on #1 does touch the insulation of the hood, again another symptom of it angled up more than it should. It seems like it did settle downwards ever so slightly after some miles, enough that I took out 1 of the 3 washers stacked to get the strut tower bar to clear.

Got the full kit on the BF sale last year. Given recent reviews and the value proposition, I took a jump.
Get yourself a Lisle 30500 pliers or equivalent for the boot clamps.
I used the replacement boots with the OEM oetiker clamps. The boots are slightly bigger in diameter than the OEM boots, so the clamps will not engage to the second locked position without serious deformation. I left them clicked on the first lock and the intake feels very solid. We will see what happens with that, but it still feels better than worm drive garbage (which is what I used for the intake side clamps, turned out of view).
Struggled getting it seated for longer than I care to admit. Finally discovered that the very bottom of boot #5 was folding over and causing the problem.
Even fully seated now, the intake "angled" up enough to not fully engage both slots for the two 10mm nuts on the bottom. Not enough flex in the boots to bend it down. This also made the IACV connection extremely difficult to get seated. Another person pressing down on the intake would have helped.
Unlike some of the others, the airbox clears the driver side radiator shroud with no trimming. I have a fresh clip on the shroud keeping it snug against the radiator.
You can see my map sensor installed next to the brake booster. I decided to use the Auto3Design harness which makes the maf/map/iat all plug & play.
You can also see my dip stick below the mouth of the intake. I don't love the location but in the end the ease of functionality wins out. I used a conduit bender to get the dipstick tube lined up. Would definitely prefer to have a CSL style dipstick, seems like something that could be reproduced without too much trouble.
All back together with obligatory sticker tune. I have found that the front corner of the snorkel on #1 does touch the insulation of the hood, again another symptom of it angled up more than it should. It seems like it did settle downwards ever so slightly after some miles, enough that I took out 1 of the 3 washers stacked to get the strut tower bar to clear.

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