A Slick Top Stripper in Mystic Blue

[oceansize]

The 3.91 diff has a small leak, either the bottom drain plug or at the diff plate, can't tell which. Going to reseal with loctite 5970 and put some gasoila on the drain plug. I'm hoping I can do both of these without the need to put in new oil. The current oil only has seven or eight thousand miles on it.

[oceansize]

Diff cover resealed and I put in a magnetic drain plug that has an o-ring this time. Coating of gasoila to go along with it.

[oceansize]

With the Tiag's rear end dropped its time to do the same to the Mystic. All that is left is to remove the subframe bolts and lower. I'll do that tomorrow. I can see the diff has a leak, have to investigate and see where its coming from before I move this diff to the other car.

[oceansize]

Second rear end dropped. The Pinion shaft seal is leaking on the diff, will replace before installing in the convertible.

[oceansize]

Decided to give Lloyd's Mats a go. This is their Velourtex option and even this basic mat is better than the current BMW options.

[0-60motorsports]

Decided to give Lloyd's Mats a go. This is their Velourtex option and even this basic mat is better than the current BMW options.

Those look great and I was going to configure them for the M3 and passat and keep a set in storage for the future. The site doesnt seem to be working or the configurator at least.....i'll try again later.

[oceansize]

3.91 differential with oil weighs 98.2 pounds. Curiosity satisfied.

[oceansize]

I've been traveling (for fun) every weekend for the last month or so, but that is over, so back to work. jvit27 had some 76mm euro tips for sale and I scooped them up. Muffler clean up and test fit. Nobody seems to sell the appropriate size rivet in stainless steel and I don't want use aluminum cause galvanic corrosion, so I had to order them, sheesh ,wouldn't have guessed that.

Second tip from the right is the original tip, the rest are the new 76mm tips.

[jvit27]

I've been traveling (for fun) every weekend for the last month or so, but that is over, so back to work. jvit27 had some 76mm euro tips for sale and I scooped them up. Muffler clean up and test fit. Nobody seems to sell the appropriate size rivet in stainless steel and I don't want use aluminum cause galvanic corrosion, so I had to order them, sheesh ,wouldn't have guessed that.

They look so good! Definitely a little sellers remorse now..

[oceansize]

Rear end and exhaust back in. On reinstall I saw the passenger side muffler hanger rubber break lol. Ordered this from bimmerworld because I'm not paying 70 to 80 dollars for a muffler hanger. If it is unacceptable then I'll send back and pay the restocking fee or whatever. I put a few thousand miles per year on each car, should be fine for a long time.

[oceansize]

The HJS muffler hanger for $27 plus shipping is as good (or bad) as the original. Transfer the metal bracket from the old to the new and good to go.

[Slideways]

The HJS muffler hanger for $27 plus shipping is as good (or bad) as the original. Transfer the metal bracket from the old to the new and good to go.

If you have some small diameter coolant/heater rubber hose laying around, you can cut four pieces to the same length matching the width of the rubber hanger and put them in the four voids of the OE hanger. You will need four zip ties to secure the hoses to the perimeter of the OE hanger. Once this is done to the passenger side hanger only, it should last much, MUCH longer while still allowing movement of the muffler unlike poly mounts.

[nuc1]

If you have some small diameter coolant/heater rubber hose laying around, you can cut four pieces to the same length matching the width of the rubber hanger and put them in the four voids of the OE hanger. You will need four zip ties to secure the hoses to the perimeter of the OE hanger. Once this is done to the passenger side hanger only, it should last much, MUCH longer while still allowing movement of the muffler unlike poly mounts.

Did same thing using RTV to fill the holes. Held up for 20k miles so far. YMMV.

Mike

[oceansize]

Everything is out of the way below the headers and from the top, will remove tomorrow. I'll label everything nicely and remove the o2 sensors while the headers are still on the car. Will also figure out the wiring situation for the euros.

[oceansize]

US headers out.

1. Remove section 1
2. Remove aluminum skid plate
3. Remove plastic belly pan
4. Remove plastic engine beauty cover (top side)
5. Remove coolant overflow tank (dont forget wire connected to the bottom)
6. Remove secondary air pump hose
7. Remove secondary air pump valve from engine block
8. Disconnect o2 sensors from the heat shield clip
9. Remove exhaust aluminum heat shield (4 bolts)
10. Disconnect o2 sensors from harness
11. Disconnect headers (I got all but three or four nuts from the top)

I used a 6 inch 1/4 ratchet with a couple of varying length straight extensions attached to a u-joint adapter. Note that Kevin had just installed all new hardware and gaskets so this was super easy. Nothing was rusted, seized, broken, or over torqued. Shout out to kaiv for doing stuff properly.