The Red Drift ///Machine

[bigjae46]

Making some carbon fiber floor mounts to replace my aluminum ones. Will save weight and add a little bit of headroom (should be about 1/2 thickness).

Here is one half which is made of 14 layers of 400gsm unidirectional carbon and a top layer of red 2x2 twill.

Need to make the other half (another 10 layers) and bond them together.






My second composite mold which is an E46 M3 reinforcement plate came out pretty good. It was a lot trickier than the E90 plate. More sharp edges which makes it difficult to layup. Gonna need some gel coat repairs and had some PVA issues (the dark spots). Switching to a chemical release which is much easier.

Need to repair wet sand and polish the mold. Let sit for a week and then I can make a carbon plate. Should be 3 lbs, less than 1/2 the weight and should be about 2x stiffer than the OE part (rough calculation, could be wrong).

I think this part will be the first of its kind. Not sure anyone would spend the time to make a carbon part that no one will ever see.

There is some risk.

First, I wonder how the bolts and threaded body inserts will hold up. Much of the load will be transmitted to the bolts and threads. A little worried about the bolts which thread into the aluminum FCAB housings.

Second potential issue is durability and impact resistant.

Third is galvanic corrosion. I will bond titanium washers to the bolt holes which should take care of any issues




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[bigjae46]

Jun 27 went well…except I forgot to secure the PS reservoir cap. I borrowed a cap from a buddy’s X5.

The pump also started whining so time for a new pump. I think I’m going to put the OE cooling loop back in.

I’ve finished my first composite mold of an E9X M3 front reinforcement plate Not terrible and I learned a lot. Next up, E46 M3 reinforcement plate.



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[bigjae46]

Ran MSR Houston clockwise in May. Me and this direction have never gotten along. I don't think I've ever ran a full 8 session weekend this direction. Something ALWAYS happens. So the car was smoking again on left turns. WTF!!! Ran 3 sessions and then parked it. Rained like crazy on Sun so wouldn't have been able to run much anyway.

Ran a 1:43.8 on NT01s as usual. I can see a 1:40 lap with a clean running (i.e. no break downs or issues).

Figured out the leak. Engine oil, PS, and brake fluid - all full. Pulled the slave cylinder - dry. Closer inspection reveals the passenger side of the transmission is wet. I thought it was a bad switch crush washer? It was wet on top. I'm so tired of dealing with it, I decided to pull the transmission. Found that I lost the R detent spring. Left turns would slosh the fluid out the hole for the detent pin/spring for the R gate.

This makes sense. Go back in time 3 years ago. I was swapping in my 5 speed. Had to do the detent springs, had the 5th gear lean. I had to take the R pin out a couple of times since I didn't realize I needed to orient the pin in a certain way. I'm guessing the c-clip was slightly compromised from being removed and reinstalled a couple of times and eventually worked itself free.

I hope to get to the track in on Jun 27 to do a shakedown. Tired of missing track time which puts testing and driver improvement on hold or at least slows progress.

[Feffman]

Here are some advices to remove weight.

-You can get composite doors. Even if you gutted the OEM doors they are still heavier than composite doors....,

My composite doors from MA Shaw (http://mashaw.com/) arrived yesterday. They are 10 pounds each. Should save some weight, even over gutted stock doors.

Feff

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

If you ever wanna come back to ECR on a member day, shoot me a message. My e46 should be coming back from CA in June and would be a comparable setup to yours from weight, aero, and tires. I'm also around the 2:08 times, but looking to dip into 2:04's after aero and weight reduction.

[bigjae46]

Finally got to run Eagles Canyon Raceway. Feels like I have unfinished business. Ran 3 full sessions, first one was wet. If you dropped two wheels, the track made you stop and get towed off to avoid tracking mud onto the surface which apparently degrades the drainage. So let's say I wasn't really pushing.

Just made it into the 2:09s by my 3rd session and then had an issue. When I replaced the brake pads...I didn't remove the master cylinder cap. By the 3rd session, I'm certain brake fluid was coming out of a weep hole in the cap (there is one). I eventually started smoking from brake fluid hitting the exhaust. It was very weird...I was like damn not another PS leak. But the smoke smelled like BBQ? I didn't say anything until someone else said I was smoking and it smelled like BBQ. It was a mess...about 3 gallons of brake clean later...its all cleaned up. But I didn't get many laps after my 3rd session.

I have an easy half to one second in every braking zone. I think one more weekend I should be pushing 2:03 - 2:04 on NT01s.

[bigjae46]

Did an event at MSR Houston going the same direction post coaching. I was unable to lower my PR. Partly weather (warmer) and partly reliability - had TPS issues. I know better...should have had spares. The Red Drift ///Machine still was unable to outpace most others and run 1:47-1:48 in limp mode.

I did work on a smoother entry into T2 and one brake zone into T4 and T7. Still playing with T2, the rear end gets light and wants to come around. The car is on the edge and my min speed is lower. I think I need to enter wider. After analyzing data, I'm 10-15 mph faster in the braking zones into T4 and T7. I can still carry more speed. I think I would have lower my PR if I had some more laps.

Overall, very happy with the performance of the car. Just need to stop having stupid stuff go wrong - DS CV, TPS sensors, O2 sensor, water pump, PS rack seal....

[bigjae46]

I have an ultimate goal of being into the low 1:40s on NT01s CCW at MSR Houston in NASA T3 trim...someday I will run NASA. Not quite ready yet for show time. I know the car is easily there, the issue is the driver. I've been driving this general line/brake point for awhile with some adjustments in the sweeper and gut check. I'm generally a conservative driver especially on corner entry. Mostly because the last thing I want to do is wad up the car. I know there's time in the brake zones. So enter coaching. Really don't have the fun budget to hire a coach on a regular basis. I'd have to give up ice hockey...and I've give up driving before I give up hockey. I stumbled on Racer360. It is $100 for a lap...figured I would give it a try.

Jaw Bone (T1) and Carousel (T2)...I know, I know. Not surprised by anything he said. But if definitely helps to have someone explain some detail on why. Without that, not sure I would be that much more committed to making the change.


I've always straight line braked into T3, throttle and then brake into Diamond's Edge (T4 and T5). Its become a habit and making this one braking zone was not on my radar. Wow.


Sweeper (T7) - Again, not surprised but it is helps A LOT to hear the feedback from someone else.

I will definitely use Racer360 again. There are limitations, you can't go right back out and apply the feedback, I have to wait 5 weeks. I'm not sure you will get any feedback beyond what an in car instructor can tell a novice or even an intermediate driver. I think it is harder to get a critical look at your driving for an advanced driver (duh). For those on a limited budget, enter Racer360. It won't make you into a pro quickly but it is a good tool to overcome any development plateaus.


So now I have 5 things to work on the next time I'm driving MSRH CCW with a clear goal. I think I can get into the 1:39s.

[332]

nothing changed since e46fanatics, carry on!

[bigjae46]

Pretty sure Titanium will be stronger than Aluminum with thinner wall so probably lighter too and can handle heat better than alu too. But will be more expensive.

I think for our level of preparation and driving skills (we are building cars at home and doing track days for fun, not for a living), you will be able to feel weight reduction more than weight distribution. So if you are able to remove 100lbs, you should be able to feel it a little bit during acceleration, cornering and braking vs the difference from 52.5/47.5 f/r to 50/50 f/r.

Also, you are talking about carbon fiber parts. Don’t get fool by carbon fiber parts, a lot of those parts are made for look only and aren’t that light at all. I had a single side Vorsteiner hood 10 years ago and it was heavy. I am trying to work with the guy who’s doing the Mile End composite parts to do E46 M3 track/race specific parts in the future. He has the knowledge to do crazy lightweight parts.

Couldn’t tell a big difference when the car was around 3000lbs dry. Funny thing was I’d used to forget I had a passenger. Now that it’s around 2600lbs dry with aero...you can feel 50lbs. The car is far more sensitive.

Improving the weight from 53.75 on the front to 52.5 has made a significant difference. I want to keep going that direction for now.

As for carbon fiber...true. Many parts are FG chop mat underneath. I’m making my own CF parts so I can control weight and strength...or at least to the best of my limited abilities.

Target weights -

Left front door - 10lbs
Fenders - 7lbs
Roof - 4lbs
Hood - 8lbs


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[Gt4]

I’d like to see what you did with the A and B pillars.

I want to get weight off the left front corner. I am considering a carbon fender and door on the left side only.

I’m at 52.5 fr weight distribution. I don’t want to do the side exit right now because it would take more weight off the rear. It’s on the list though.

What about using aluminum for the exhaust?


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Pretty sure Titanium will be stronger than Aluminum with thinner wall so probably lighter too and can handle heat better than alu too. But will be more expensive.

I think for our level of preparation and driving skills (we are building cars at home and doing track days for fun, not for a living), you will be able to feel weight reduction more than weight distribution. So if you are able to remove 100lbs, you should be able to feel it a little bit during acceleration, cornering and braking vs the difference from 52.5/47.5 f/r to 50/50 f/r.

Also, you are talking about carbon fiber parts. Don’t get fool by carbon fiber parts, a lot of those parts are made for look only and aren’t that light at all. I had a single side Vorsteiner hood 10 years ago and it was heavy. I am trying to work with the guy who’s doing the Mile End composite parts to do E46 M3 track/race specific parts in the future. He has the knowledge to do crazy lightweight parts.

[bigjae46]

Here are some advices to remove weight.

-You can get composite doors. Even if you gutted the OEM doors they are still heavier than composite doors.

-you can remove all the undercoating under the car and stitch weld all body joints. I did that on my last track car build. It’s a lot of work but help to get a stiffer chassis

-if you are going to redo the cage, you can cut all the sheet metals inside the A-B-C pillars and quarter panels. Car will be like a semi-tube frame car. And to get rigidity back you make gussets from cage to A-B pillars. I did that too on my last race car build. I was able to get the tubes touching the inside of the A pillars /the visible sheet metal visible from outside.


-you can relocate the battery in the passanger side footwell area and eliminate 1 big wire.

-you can do a custom side exit exhaust and save some length of exhaust piping and probably get better exhaust flow.

-while doing the side exit exhaust setup, you can redo the exhaust setup with Titanium parts from Vibrant to save even more weight

I have pictures of all of this if you want

I’d like to see what you did with the A and B pillars.

I want to get weight off the left front corner. I am considering a carbon fender and door on the left side only.

I’m at 52.5 fr weight distribution. I don’t want to do the side exit right now because it would take more weight off the rear. It’s on the list though.

What about using aluminum for the exhaust?


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[Gt4]

Here are some advices to remove weight.

-You can get composite doors. Even if you gutted the OEM doors they are still heavier than composite doors.

-you can remove all the undercoating under the car and stitch weld all body joints. I did that on my last track car build. It’s a lot of work but help to get a stiffer chassis

-if you are going to redo the cage, you can cut all the sheet metals inside the A-B-C pillars and quarter panels. Car will be like a semi-tube frame car. And to get rigidity back you make gussets from cage to A-B pillars. I did that too on my last race car build. I was able to get the tubes touching the inside of the A pillars /the visible sheet metal visible from outside.


-you can relocate the battery in the passanger side footwell area and eliminate 1 big wire.

-you can do a custom side exit exhaust and save some length of exhaust piping and probably get better exhaust flow.

-while doing the side exit exhaust setup, you can redo the exhaust setup with Titanium parts from Vibrant to save even more weight

I have pictures of all of this if you want

[bigjae46]

I have a 2021 goal of getting into the 1:40s on NT01s on my home track, MSR Houston. PR so far is 1:43.9.

I'm at about 2900 lbs with 275/40R17 NT01s. Ran a 1:41.269 and consistent 1:42s to 1:43s. I also measure my best lap against my virtual best to get an idea of how consistent I am. On Sat, I was .1 sec off my VB and .4 sec on Sun. Very happy with that! I put in fairly consistent sector times lap over lap, with .5 sec per sector (about .5-.75 miles). I have 5 things I can improve with my driving which I think can net me 1 more second. My next effort is to reduce drag, especially in the front wheel wells. And as always...more weight reduction.

[bigjae46]

Finished the splitter up. Riveted some aluminum T bars as a reinforcement and UHMW blocks on the bottom as skid plates.



Installed Turner monoball RTAB and FCABs.



Performed a corner balance and alignment. Perfect 50/50 cross weights and a 52.5/47.5 F-R weight distribution. Then I dialed out some toe on the rear tires (.11 each side which is about .03 from min spec.


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