Mursalin's Street & Track Carbon Black E46 M3 Build

[fullyflaredd]

Got the box back from Karbonius and it looks magnificent. They put on all new fittings and polished it. Installed it on the car, went for a drive, and I stalled as I'm exiting my driveway, and it won't turn on lol. I've been having an issue where the car won't turn on unless it's been sitting for a while. I replaced the ignition switch and coded out the clutch switch, so I'm guessing it has to be the starter. New valeo starter on the way from FCP. I'm itching to drive this thing. And please ignore the absolutely filthy engine bay, it will get a proper detail soon.

[fullyflaredd]

Once the car is back up, I'm gonna bring out the DSLR and post some quality non sideways photos. Long overdue haha

[fullyflaredd]

So brakes are on and all fluids replaced in preparation for a track day.

I also replaced the starter, and whoever replaced it before managed to mangle one of the bolt heads. Took me a cool minute to figure out why the socket wouldn't slip on. Used an e14 instead of e12 and managed to replace it. Also obviously replaced the starter bolts. Also if you're ordering a starter from FCP euro, be weary of the Valeo new starters (not the reman, it's a silver body) as they're a different design and upon installing it was grinding. It had the correct PN and everything stamped.on it. I ordered another Bosch reman from a local parts supplier (it had Valeo written on the side and was the correct design) and had no issues.

Also upon finally having the car on a lift for the first time since I purchased it, I discovered hairline cracks protruding from where the reinforcement plates were epoxied on 😢. This car has been much more of a money pit than I could have ever imagined. Although this car has some nice parts on it, it really seems like quite a bit of stuff was done not all the way or not the proper fix (i.e. not replacing the followers with the cams, the subframe reinforcements being epoxied and using BMW foam instead of a solution like Vince bar, etc.) But I did know what I was getting myself into...kinda. either way moral of the story is you can buy what you think is a pretty nice car and still have it be a massive money pit.

So now my plan is to order all new suspension components (all SPL spherical, solid subframe mounts, etc) and then drop the car off at TC design for a half cage and for them to drop the subframe and do everything properly. I've already spent a shit ton on this car, but given that I have no intent of selling and given that I'd never recoup any of the money, I'm just going to go balls deep and get everything sorted properly. Should be a hell of a track toy once done.

[cornerbalanced]

I think you’ll find the welded in TC half cage will be worth its weight in gold. Good call. A previous E46 of mine had a welded in half cage tied into the subframe and rear shock towers, and every E46 I’ve owned afterwards without that added rigidity has felt very lackluster.

[fullyflaredd]

I'm very glad to hear that. Along with some good suspension, it should really transform the car. Although the car feels good, it never quite felt what I would describe as sharp. Some of my previous cars like the s2000 CR or Elise had that sharpness to it that this car lacks. Granted this thing is much heavier, but I think stiffening the chassis a bit, removing some more weight, and adding some nice 2 way coilovers and sphericals all around should make a huge difference.

So far here are my suspension plans (yet to order parts):
SPL rear lower arms
SPL rear knuckles
SPL rear upper arm monoballs
SPL rtab
GC front race sway bar
solid subframe mounts (unsure what brand to go with or if they're all more or less the same)
Turner monoball fcab
MCS 2 way
New OE tie rods and a rebuilt ZHP rack
TC design half cage welded into all 4 subframe mounting points and strut tower
Mason front strut bar

I'll be eating ramen and cup of noodles for the remainder of the year.

[fullyflaredd]

I have a question for those more knowledgeable on this topic:

Since the plates on my car are expoxied on and not welded, how would they go about being removed so that the cracks underneath can be exposed and repaired properly? Or would that entire area need to be cut out?

I'll try to grab some pics at my buddy's shop later this week.

[Slideways]

I have a question for those more knowledgeable on this topic:

Since the plates on my car are expoxied on and not welded, how would they go about being removed so that the cracks underneath can be exposed and repaired properly? Or would that entire area need to be cut out?

I'll try to grab some pics at my buddy's shop later this week.

Epoxy typically has a temperature, usually found in the data sheet, where it will soften or can be broken up. Guessing that a heat gun can get to a high enough temperature and then it will require some prying.

[WestBankM4]

I'm very glad to hear that. Along with some good suspension, it should really transform the car. Although the car feels good, it never quite felt what I would describe as sharp. Some of my previous cars like the s2000 CR or Elise had that sharpness to it that this car lacks. Granted this thing is much heavier, but I think stiffening the chassis a bit, removing some more weight, and adding some nice 2 way coilovers and sphericals all around should make a huge difference.

So far here are my suspension plans (yet to order parts):
SPL rear lower arms
SPL rear knuckles
SPL rear upper arm monoballs
SPL rtab
GC front race sway bar
solid subframe mounts (unsure what brand to go with or if they're all more or less the same)
Turner monoball fcab
MCS 2 way
New OE tie rods and a rebuilt ZHP rack
TC design half cage welded into all 4 subframe mounting points and strut tower
Mason front strut bar

I'll be eating ramen and cup of noodles for the remainder of the year.

Regarding the solid subframe mounts, after a ton of research I went with CMP solid subframe mounts (as well as their RTAB's). They have risers which is meant for vehicles that are using reinforcement plates and on lowered suspension, apparently it's to balance out the suspension geometry.

[fullyflaredd]

CMP it is for subframe mounts then. Going to order all parts next week and give TC a call.

[cornerbalanced]

CMP it is for subframe mounts then. Going to order all parts next week and give TC a call.

I’d go CMP for the RTABs too — SPL RTABs are unsealed spherical bearings iirc. CMPs will last much longer / have longer service intervals.

[fullyflaredd]

Post track update from Buttonwillow CW13.
Car feels great overall. Pulls hard, engine sounds healthy, valve train sounds good, no ticking, temps stay around 220-230 (and this is without having installed any of the do88 stuff).

Suspension is decent (eibach pro street coilovers) however definitely on the softer side and a bit wallowy. But still suffices.

Brakes are okay. They're good for 2-3 or so laps before they feel iffy. I didn't have much confidence in them and unfortunately that's what kept me from being consistent throughout the day. My best time was a 2:02, but I was setting anywhere from 2:05 to 2:08 because of my lack of confidence in the brakes. I might have also been overbraking and asking too much from the brakes so that didn't help either. The car is way more capable than I am as a driver, but as long as I improve everytime I go out I'm happy.

I will probably end up upgrading the brakes or at least add ducting. I know it's likely a driver excuse, but I feel that before I improve as a driver I need to be able to be consistent, and brakes are probably the most important thing in that aspect.

[repoman89]

^what pads are you running? You should be able to get a consistent session out of those Brembo 4-pots with the right pads and good fluid. Essex also recommends removing the dust shields before adding brake ducting if you haven’t already done so.

I’m using Ferodo DS1.11 compound with 996 calipers right now, really happy with them and my instructors are usually excited about the brakes when they drive or ride with me too.

[fullyflaredd]

^what pads are you running? You should be able to get a consistent session out of those Brembo 4-pots with the right pads and good fluid. Essex also recommends removing the dust shields before adding brake ducting if you haven’t already done so.

I’m using Ferodo DS1.11 compound with 996 calipers right now, really happy with them and my instructors are usually excited about the brakes when they drive or ride with me too.

I'm on carbotech xp10 w/ SRF fluid, so I'm not sure that is the issue as they're race pads and I have ran the same setup on different cars before, albeit lighter cars. I have not added ducting yet, but will keep that in mind when I do so.

Hmm I am wondering if I'm asking too much of the brakes? It just didn't feel consistent to me in terms of bite and stopping power. I might bleed the system again and see if that helps. I know the CSL rotors are notoriously soft as well, so might consider the girodiscs + ducting, but if I'm going to spend that much, I think I'd rather just opt for an AP racing setup even though it's quite a bit more.

Fwiw my time at the same track before was 2:03, and I was on some crap pads and pretty much had non existent brakes, so I might have simply been overbraking and roasting them as my time barely improved with much better brakes.

[repoman89]

I'm on carbotech xp10 w/ SRF fluid, so I'm not sure that is the issue as they're race pads and I have ran the same setup on different cars before, albeit lighter cars. I have not added ducting yet, but will keep that in mind when I do so.

Hmm I am wondering if I'm asking too much of the brakes? It just didn't feel consistent to me in terms of bite and stopping power. I might bleed the system again and see if that helps. I know the CSL rotors are notoriously soft as well, so might consider the girodiscs + ducting, but if I'm going to spend that much, I think I'd rather just opt for an AP racing setup even though it's quite a bit more.

Fwiw my time at the same track before was 2:03, and I was on some crap pads and pretty much had non existent brakes, so I might have simply been overbraking and roasting them as my time barely improved with much better brakes.

I was unclear above -- what I meant is Essex suggests that you probably don't actually need ducts, and to make sure dust shields are removed and temperatures are measured before going down that rabbit hole: https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...n-my-track-car

Might as well bleed again as you said, making sure you cycle and bleed ABS as well. That setup should feel pretty consistent I would think. The CSL rotors might be soft, but that should affect wear rate a lot more than brake feel .. they are still rigid chunks of iron after all that will not meaningfully compress under braking.

[fullyflaredd]

I was unclear above -- what I meant is Essex suggests that you probably don't actually need ducts, and to make sure dust shields are removed and temperatures are measured before going down that rabbit hole: https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...n-my-track-car

Might as well bleed again as you said, making sure you cycle and bleed ABS as well. That setup should feel pretty consistent I would think. The CSL rotors might be soft, but that should affect wear rate a lot more than brake feel .. they are still rigid chunks of iron after all that will not meaningfully compress under braking.

Ah gotcha. Thanks for that info.

I will try bleeding again and see if it helps, although it will be hard for me to verify if it made any meaningful difference without doing another track event. I should probably inspect the master as well to check for any seepage or anything of that nature.

I thought it should be consistent too, but something definitely seems off.

I swapped cars with a friend and his e92 has PFC kit front and rear and the amount of confidence those brakes inspired was absolutely awesome. At no point did I feel like the car wouldn't slow down in time, whereas with my setup I was a little on edge the entire time not knowing whether I'd sufficiently slow down or have to chuck it sideways into the turn or go straight off. I actually did have to go straight off twice.

I can get the AP racing pro5000r kit with 368x36mm BTCC discs and all for a pretty reasonable price compared to the Essex kits that are sold stateside, so I am very much leaning towards that. It's almost a good $2k cheaper and replacement rings are cheap too.